fishing phone cable through hole

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I'm in the process of pulling new phone cable for my house and tied the old cable to the new cable with electrical tape. Unfortunately the two became separated and now I need to push the new cable through the 1/4" or so hole in the wall and out the house. I know the holes aren't aligned, so I'm hoping there is an easier way to do this that doesn't involve "cut the drywall" The jack that it came from was a surface mount jack, so there is no box in the wall, just a hole in the drywall.
I know that there is fishtape, but for some reason I thought the head on fishtape was larger than the diameter of phone cable. The holes are almost exactly the diameter of the phone cable, if not smaller, whoever did the fishing of the wires did a really good job. The hole is small enough so that looking through it is hopeless - no eyeballing this job.
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Eigenvector wrote:

just use a length of stiff wire instead of a fish tape; a 14AWG single copper conductor will work, or even better would be some smaller yet stiff steel wire (aka "mechanic's wire")
nate
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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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Nate Nagel wrote:

In a pinch a straightened wire coat hanger can work pretty well. And it has the benefit of being free.
OP: how far is it that you need to thread this telephone wire? Straight through a normally-constructed wall? Is the construction brick or something else difficult? Normally the original telephone installer would have used an "installer's bit" (what else?) to go through the entire structure and then to pull the wire through. This means that the path really should be quite straight but not necessarily perpendicular to the walls and once you figure out what the original path is, threading the new wire becomes much easier. Normally I'd just put a piece of coat hanger wire perhaps 18" long onto the end of the wire like a needle on a thread (but _firmly attached_ using minimal taping without looping)and poke around a bit to figure out the path and then push it on through.
--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
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I like the idea of a coat hanger, but I haven't owned a metal coat hanger in years - they simply don't sell them anymore and I don't have anything that needs to be drycleaned.
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"Eigenvector" wrote:

Go to the dry cleaner and ask for some; if they aren't free they are still cheap. Good for many uses beyond their intended porpoise.
Jon
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You can take a 12" piece of coat hanger and bend a loop in it so a match can fit in it. This works great for lighting pilot lights.
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On Sep 8, 6:59 am, "JimmyDahGeek@DON'T_SPAM_ME_gmail.com"

Cut another 12" piece, twist the end like a pretzel, producing a "knot" about 2 - 3" across. Chuck the unpretzeled end into a drill, and you have the best paint mixer money didn't buy.
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Stop by your local *.* (auto, hvac, plumber) service company. I guarantee their uniforms come from the cleaners on real wire hangars. What make you think they don't sell them anymore? Just because you're too good to use them, doesn't mean the rest of the world doesn't.
s

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On Thu, 6 Sep 2007 18:40:22 -0700, "Eigenvector"

I have found some recently. They were plastic coated, but still stiff.
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109 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
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I got a whole mess of white vinyl coated ones in Target. When you have an older house with small closets those big clunky plastic hangers take up too much space. Plus they sag when you use them for drying damp clothes.
nate
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The OP could unscrew the whip antenna on his car and use that; one of my ham radio antennas has saved me a few times; it being 4' long and pretty thin, but strong enough to pull a string along as I push it thru the wall.
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on 9/7/2007 6:31 PM Bob M. said the following:

If he has a car with a whip antenna. Most cars now have painted circuits on the rear window, like the rear window defrosters.
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Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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wrote:

That's what I've done to get those flexible wires through walls.
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110 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
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Eigenvector wrote:

Make your life easy, go buy a low voltage type remodel "box" (low voltage ones are open back), cut the appropriate sized opening in the wall for the "box" and then just reach into the wall cavity to find your wire. A regular wall plate type jack looks better than surface mount anyway. Should cost you all of $5 and make life a lot easier.
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Well I appreciate both answers, yours and Nate's. Question 2, at some point I have to push it through into the crawlspace, I'm presuming it will break again, so my question is how can I connect the two cables securely yet not add to their diameter?
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Eigenvector wrote:

Strip about 3" of the outer jacket of each cable. Take the wires and bend in a U on each side. Interlock the Us and twist the U tail back around each side. Wrap the joint lightly with electrical tape. The finished joint should be about the same diameter as the overall cable and the joint should be plenty strong.
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Eigenvector wrote:

You are STILL a putz eigenlostmyvector
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Tekkie wrote:

I'm afraid I have to agree with that sentiment. He's "gilding a turd" with his attempts to solve a simple problem and keeps asking questions which make him sound like he shouldn't be allowed out of his crib unattended.
The part about not owning any wire coat hangers and sounding like he hasn't got a clue how to get one from a someone else is a good tip off.
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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Jeff Wisnia wrote:

I don't believe I have any wire coat hangers. They tend to put nasty creases in shirts. I'm pretty sure I could get my hands on one though, or more likely just grab a 36" length of 70S-2 TIG filler rod from my shop.
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The insults don't upset me as much as the fact that you took the time to respond to the post. The post of a person whom you felt obligated to insult grossly in a public forum. I tend to ignore people who irritate me, and would expect others to do the same. You seem to feel compelled to act out against them.
Taken at face value your comment about the coat hanger is ridiculous. That you would think I would drive to a dry cleaners for a coat hanger rather than a hardware store for similar type wire makes me wonder if you said that simply to insult me. As it is I've already corrected the problem, others who offered up suggestions early on completely opened my eyes to the fact I was making this too hard. They managed to do it without resorting to insults. I'm not afraid to ask questions, even simple ones, on a newsgroup. I don't EVER expect answers, but when they come I'm grateful. I certainly don't expect insults.
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