got a used paneled door to hang in my spare bedroom in place of the
original one which just wasn't there when we bought the house. I need
to fill the mortises for the hinge on the door (or the jamb, doesn't
matter, really, but the door needs to be repainted after I'm done
anyway so I figured I'd do that) and chisel new ones in a different
location. I'm trying to think what to buy when I go to the store;
shim stock or shingles could be made to work but would require a lot
of planing/sanding, is there any wood product that you can think of
that is flat and 3/16" or more thick (but obviously not so thick that
it would require excessive planing/sanding when done) I thought of
using paint sticks but I think they will be too narrow. (3-1/2"
hinges) they did save my butt once on an old paned window though;
someone had busted the thin bit of a mullion and a paint stick shaped
with a knife was just the right size <G> my landlord thought I was a
genius... (he was easily impressed)
And we have a winner! Don't over-think this, it isn't that hard. Square
up the hinge mortises with a sharp chisel, and cut a square-cornered
tight-fitting plug slightly too thick, and glue it in place. Maybe pin
it with a brad till glue dries, if you don't have a convenient way to
stack weights on it. I think I used Gorilla Glue last time, because it
was handy, but yellow carpenter glue is the traditional material. Resist
the urge to touch it until the glue tries, and then plane and sand. Once
painted, you won't even be able to find it.
For a tiny job like this, one of the 5-buck plastic miter boxes and saws
will work fine. Just buy a stick of trim at the borg- labeled 'screen
mold', probably- and cut the ends square. They will have something
pretty close. You can whittle the width pretty close with a fresh blade
in a utility knife. For that matter, for pine that thin, you could make
all the cuts with a utility knife, if you are patient and have a good
square. You only need to end up with one flat face, and 3 flat edges-
the rest will be handled by the planing and sanding.
These are the kind of jobs Harbor Freight tools are good for. Something
you'll probably only do once every five years.
Go to AC Moore, Michaels, or other hobby store and pick up some
hobby/craft Basswood planks (not balsa).
They are about 2' or 3' long, 3" or 4" wide, and various thicknesses.
AAMOF, I have a left over piece in my hand that is 3/16" thick and 3"
wide. This particular piece was cut and is currently 17" long.
I built dollhouse furniture with it.
if it saves me time, it's worth it. Besides, I think I paid $12 for
the door at the architectural salvage (that's a fancy phrase for
"house junkyard.") Probably already paid more than that for the
hinges, I don't recall.
Dunno if It has been mentioned. In my 'rehab a shack' project I had
several places that need filling. Drywall mud does a wonderful job of
it. Takes multiple coats due to the shrinkage and then some sanding.
As long as it is only to level the surface for paint and has no stress
on it it seems to last forever. I did some in uh....around mid 80s
and it is still perfect.
The first thing that comes to my mind is architectural epoxy filler,
but I happen to have some lying around. It is fairly expensive, but
if you expect to have to do something similar again, or to do any
exterior wood repair, it would be worth it. If you get a small
quantity and want to conserve it, you can embed any pieces of wood you
have that are undersized, like the paintsticks pieces you mention.
My prefered filler is the one from advancedrepair.com, although my
experience is far from exhaustive.
You can stick in any wood as a dutchman but you are still going to have to
fill in where there is a less than perfect joint. There will be. Instead
of wood, save yourself some time and buy a can of Bondo (auto body filler)
at any auto store, maybe a borg or paint store too.
Scoop some out on something disposable, add catalyst and mix well. VERY
well. Use a broad knife and lay itnto the mortices slightly high. It sets
quickly and once it is no longer rubbery but not yet totally hard (maybe 30
minutes) slick it off flush with a chisel or file. Once totally hard, sand.
If you wind up with pinholes, just skim on another coat. Once all is flush,
paint. You'll never know it is there. And no, you don't need epoxy.
I would do exactly what dadiOH suggests except I would use those famous
paint sticks stapled or clamped to the face of the door to create a bridge
for the trowel to ride. This creates a finished edge on the door face.
Then just follow his directions. If you need to mortise out part of the
bondo later for your new hinges, it is no big deal. It cuts and mortises
just like wood.
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
It's a toss up between cutting wood or using Bondo. They'd both take
about the same amount of time, once you figured in planing or sanding
to get a smooth surface, but I'd go with wood because I don't like
sanding resins unless I have to.
The Borg sells thin wood in small sizes, as does any crafts store. If
you go to a Sherwin Williams store and ask nicely, they'll give you
some large paint stirrers that are used for bigger buckets.
Are the existing hinge mortises so far off that you can't re-use the
Yes, I'd have to have a helper hold the door in the exact location to
tell, but I'm not even sure if there's any overlap. Definitely at least
2" off on each hinge. (higher on upper, lower on lower - need help
because door is a little short but that's OK because I have a nice
persian rug in that room so the clearance is helpful)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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