fencing against house...


Hi all,
I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just have small dogs). Easy enough, except...
What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though? Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?
I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a standard way)?
cheers
Jules
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wrote:

Measure your dog's head. I bet you could even get away with a 4 inch space. In any event, you're right to want to leave some room for maintenance.
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On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 08:50:55 -0700, mike wrote:

Sounds good. I'm definitely less keen on chopping bits out of the siding, anyway - although it might look neat enough, it'd be a headache if someone ever wanted to take the whole fence down for whatever reason.
I'm used to living in brick buildings... :-)
cheers
Jules
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On Aug 31, 11:31 am, Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig the post hole?
My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent you from installing the post correctly.
In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:
http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm
BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?
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Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence section. It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of the rails to the front of the post.
Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house.
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What did you read that implied 2 x 4 rails would be used?
What did you read that implied it's even a wooden fence?
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It's called giving him options. What did you read that implied that he was opposed to a wooden fence?
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I saw no opposition to a wooden fence at all. What did you read in my post that implied I saw an implied opposition in the OP?
Your post was very specific as to the installation of 2 x 4 rails, including the orientation of the face.
I was simply asking why you thought 2 x 4's (or even wood) were involved when the OP asked only about the installation of the post.
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It's called giving him options. How many times do I have to say it? Why do you think that wood is not going to be involved? Wood fences happen to make it very easy to cantilever a fence beyond the post if needed.
What's your problem? Why don't you let Jules say what is and is not acceptable? Is your name Jules?
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re: What's your problem?
Wow! I probably should leave you alone. You are way too touchy this afternoon.
Then again, this is way too much fun!
First you thought I saw something that made me think the OP was opposed to wooden fences...don't know where you got that from.
Then you asked me why I think wood isn't going to be involved...don't know where you got that from either.
Then you imply that I think that wooden fences are not acceptable...don't know where you got that from either.
The only question I ever raised was why you specifically mentioned 2 x 4's instead of just "rails" or something like that.
Rails can certainly be something other than 2 x 4's and a cantilevered fence could be metal, vinyl or a host of other materials - including wood.
You keep talking about options, yet you also keep talking about wood like it's the only option.
I guess my problem is not knowing why you don't get that I'm not talking about the fence, I'm talking about your original post about how to mount the 2 x4's.
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...

If you're not talking about the fence, you're in the wrong thread.
I don't get why you're making a stink about my specifics. If I'm not specific, I get people saying "they don't get it", or "how do you make a cantilevered fence with rail brackets?"
Instead, I'm specific, and unbelievably, I get the third degree. And this from a guy who posts a link with PLENTY of specifics and about wood fences, no less! There's a word for people like you who think it's "fun" to be a jerk on the net.
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My link had *options* on how to deal with *posts* near a structure.
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On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 10:31:41 -0500, Jules wrote:

OK, thanks for the replies so far - some answers to other things mentioned:
Yep, wooden fence with galvanised vinyl-coated 3x2" mesh over the top (expensive stuff, but I was given a roll a while ago which'll do 2/3 of the job, so silly not to use it as it seems like it'll last a long time).
I'm thinking 4x4" posts and pressure-treated 2x4s, with three rails - but putting the bottom-most rail as close to the ground as possible (that way I can fasten the mesh to it without needing to dig it into the ground, but I can always bury cheap chicken wire right at the bottom later if the dogs work out how to dig underneath).
Electric pet fences - I'm not too sure about these. The neighbor has one, and it's a pain in the butt for him every time his power goes out. Plus the collars seem a bit big for small dogs. I have got an offer of one I can have if I want though (I'd just need to buy the collars) so maybe it's worth thinking about.
Gate adjacent to house: Yes, that's a possibility. I do actually need a gate along one section which adjoins the house anyway for access with the mower etc. but I was going to put it at the other end of that side (which ends at an old well shed which will get used as an outdoor kennel). One end or the other will still need a post, anyway!
Footer: Admittedly I've not looked yet. The wall in question is part of a room which has no floor above or basement underneath, and I know that further along it doesn't have anything, but who knows... I'll take a look later. Worst case I suspect it's not that deep - just a few inches - and I've got a SDS drill that I've used before to run 6" holes through a foot of poured concrete.
cheers
Jules
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Jules wrote:

Put a post a foot or so from the house, and instead of having the rail terminate at the post (like the other rails), allow it to extend past the rail to a small distance (maybe a 1/2") from the house. Fasten the pickets onto the rails as normal.
Jon
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wrote:

Nice post Jon...
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

Well thank you for that, I try!
Jon
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(termite) inspector would call that earth wood contact and call for remediation to bring it in to conformance for pest clearance. Elgy
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On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 12:29:49 -0500, Jules wrote:

Just to report back on that, no footer. I'm liking the idea of setting the 'end' posts a few inches away from the siding, even so...
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