What's the best way to do this? Below is from Eric Gurney 7/21/2000 which is the best I could find with google...
(link no longer good)
Fasteners: Galvanized roofing nails, 1 1/2" (38 mm) long with hot-dipped
galvanized coating for use with wood framing. Nails should meet Federal
Specification #FF-N105B/type 2 style 20. Custom Concrete Backerboard Screws
or equivalent, 1 1/4" (32 mm) long, for use with wood or 20 gauge steel
Underlayment: Using a 1/4" (6 mm) square-notched trowel, apply a setting bed
of latex-modified mortar to the subfloor or base. Immediately laminate 1/2"
WonderBoard Concrete Backerboard to subfloor base, leaving a 1/8" - 3/16"
(3 - 5 mm) space between boards at all joints and corners. Stagger joints so
they do not line up with underlying substrate joints. Fasten backerboard
every 6" - 8" (15.2 - 20.3 cm) o.c. throughout board field and around all
edges while setting bed mortar is still workable. Around perimeter of each
board, locate fasteners within 1/2" - 2" (1.2 - 5.1 cm) of edge. Fill all
joints and corners solid with latex-modified mortar. Taping of floor and
counter joints is not required.
If you are trying to fasten wonderboard directly to floor
joists, then there is your problem. The reason that you can
find no instructions on how to do it, is because you cannot do
it. Wonderboard cannot bridge floor joists, so you must have
and underlayment to support it. Then you fasten the
wonderboard to the underlayment.
If you do not understand the terminology you will have a tougher time
asking questions and deciphering what is meant by the answers. Google
'construction glossary' and you'll find a good place to start to fill
in the blanks.
Underlayment is a plywood (or approved equal) layer on top of the
subfloor. In a typical tiling situation the house might have 3/4"
plywood or OSB as the subfloor. The underlayment is meant to smooth
out the surface in preparation for the tile. If your subfloor is
strong enough you don't need an additional underlayment - you can bond
the cement board directly to the subfloor.
I don't understand how you could have 2x6s as a subfloor unless your
joists are spaced far greater than the typical 16". Tile
installations live and die by how much the floor will deflect under
load. If you subfloor or joist spacing is unusual the normal advice
Post pictures on one of the free hosting sites and link to them in
your next post.
Well, thanks....it's been a month since I posted the
question. Since then I learned some of the terms, already
installed the cement board - like you say, directly to the
subfloor. (I'm not laying tile, by the way).
Too late -- the floor's already fixed, but they were
tongue-in-groove 2x6's. From what I gather, it's std 1961
tract home construction. Again, no tile invovled.
There are several things to consider for a floor tile installation as
Robert indicated. Not the least of which is the potential for
deflection or flex. I learned this the hard way once. I've done a few
tile installations over wood sub-floors since that snafu and I've
referred to this when I have.
Sometimes it's just no feasible for tile to be put over a sub-floor
given the existing construction, etc.
adding any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest of the
I'm just getting tile put in.
I have an older home, with wood laths that run diagonally across the
floor joists, they are 5/8" thick.
My tile guy installed 3/8" plywood over the wood laths, then a
thinset ontop of the plywood, and then the wonderboard. Then used
special screws to fasten the wonderboard to the joists.
Then the tile in a 'subway' pattern. Looks great.
Sounds adequate, assuming the floor joists are spaced properly. Say 16"
o.c. or close. You can check yourself using the L/360 criteria as
prescribed at the web site I posted before. I doubt that you will have
any problems. I'm not sure; what is a "subway" pattern? A staggered or
offset joint, a basket weave pattern?
Thanks, there's no flexing in the floorboards. I'm just replacing 1/2-inch water-damaged particle board with cement wonderboard. Evidently I put down some kind of mortar or cement on the floor boards, then the wonderboard on top of that, then fasten with roofing nails or screws. At least that's what they told me at home depot.
This page has a video showing how to lay down wonderboard but when I
click on either low or high bandwidth, I get the video but no sound.
Can anyone get sound? Know what I can do to hear it? My Windows
mediaplayer works fine with other files but can't hear any of the
videos on this site.
I get sound. Since the file is a .wmv you should have no problems. Can you
play other files with a .wmv extension? Maybe the audio codec in your
machine is corrupted or some such filtering device (anti-virus, firewall,
etc.) is stopping it.
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 04:30:24 GMT, "Sammy bin Snoozin"
Works fine for me. I an using Media Player 9.00.00.2980 running on
Win98se with a 56k dialup modem. I chose the low bandwith version.
However, I should mention that it did not play at all the first time I
tried. I got the same error that I have been getting everytime I
tried to play an online video lately. But I had some problems with
Windows last week, and removed a few "lost" files. I kept the
download on my drive, so I just re-ran it, and after that it played
great. I'd recommend reinstalling media player, it tends to get
flakey when other programs are installed. You should not have to
remove it, just run the install again. I'm curious, where did you get
9.00003354? I thought version 9 was version 9 and thats it? Are you
running WinXP or another OS version? Maybe there is a change for that
OS. Otherwise I just got an earlier copy I guess.
I was surprised there were no skips in it. Usually when I play these
things on a dialup connection they skip all the time.
Hope this helps
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 04:28:14 +0000, Sammy bin Snoozin wrote:
Download it and try to play it. I use linux and it plays fine using
linux's version of media player so you shouldn't have any problem.
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