Fastening down Wonderboard to floor joists

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What's the best way to do this? Below is from Eric Gurney 7/21/2000 which is the best I could find with google...
From http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/onlyproducts/WonderBoard12.htm (link no longer good)
Fasteners: Galvanized roofing nails, 1 1/2" (38 mm) long with hot-dipped galvanized coating for use with wood framing. Nails should meet Federal Specification #FF-N105B/type 2 style 20. Custom Concrete Backerboard Screws or equivalent, 1 1/4" (32 mm) long, for use with wood or 20 gauge steel framing.
Underlayment: Using a 1/4" (6 mm) square-notched trowel, apply a setting bed of latex-modified mortar to the subfloor or base. Immediately laminate 1/2" WonderBoard Concrete Backerboard to subfloor base, leaving a 1/8" - 3/16" (3 - 5 mm) space between boards at all joints and corners. Stagger joints so they do not line up with underlying substrate joints. Fasten backerboard every 6" - 8" (15.2 - 20.3 cm) o.c. throughout board field and around all edges while setting bed mortar is still workable. Around perimeter of each board, locate fasteners within 1/2" - 2" (1.2 - 5.1 cm) of edge. Fill all joints and corners solid with latex-modified mortar. Taping of floor and counter joints is not required.
Sam
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Sammy bin Snoozin wrote:

If you are trying to fasten wonderboard directly to floor joists, then there is your problem. The reason that you can find no instructions on how to do it, is because you cannot do it. Wonderboard cannot bridge floor joists, so you must have and underlayment to support it. Then you fasten the wonderboard to the underlayment.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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Ah so! Thanks. What is underlayment?

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I meant... what kind of underlayment, how thick, etc? Makes sense, but adding any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest of the floor.

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Sammy bin Snoozin wrote:

Please don't top post.
Underlayment thickness is determined by what you intend to put on it, spacing of the floor joists and material used for underlayment, including how it is installed.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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I see. My building vocabulary is not that good. It already has 2x6 boards on the joists, if that's what underlayment is. They are in good shape.

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On Oct 22, 10:46 am, "Sammy bin Snoozin"

If you do not understand the terminology you will have a tougher time asking questions and deciphering what is meant by the answers. Google 'construction glossary' and you'll find a good place to start to fill in the blanks.
Underlayment is a plywood (or approved equal) layer on top of the subfloor. In a typical tiling situation the house might have 3/4" plywood or OSB as the subfloor. The underlayment is meant to smooth out the surface in preparation for the tile. If your subfloor is strong enough you don't need an additional underlayment - you can bond the cement board directly to the subfloor.
I don't understand how you could have 2x6s as a subfloor unless your joists are spaced far greater than the typical 16". Tile installations live and die by how much the floor will deflect under load. If you subfloor or joist spacing is unusual the normal advice doesn't apply.
Post pictures on one of the free hosting sites and link to them in your next post.
R
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wrote:

underlayment is. They are in good shape.

Well, thanks....it's been a month since I posted the question. Since then I learned some of the terms, already installed the cement board - like you say, directly to the subfloor. (I'm not laying tile, by the way).

Too late -- the floor's already fixed, but they were tongue-in-groove 2x6's. From what I gather, it's std 1961 tract home construction. Again, no tile invovled.

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Sammy bin Snoozin wrote:

There are several things to consider for a floor tile installation as Robert indicated. Not the least of which is the potential for deflection or flex. I learned this the hard way once. I've done a few tile installations over wood sub-floors since that snafu and I've referred to this when I have. http://www.ttmac.com/deflection_limitations.htm
Sometimes it's just no feasible for tile to be put over a sub-floor given the existing construction, etc.
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adding any thickness will bring the new section higher than the rest of the floor.

I'm just getting tile put in. I have an older home, with wood laths that run diagonally across the floor joists, they are 5/8" thick. My tile guy installed 3/8" plywood over the wood laths, then a thinset ontop of the plywood, and then the wonderboard. Then used special screws to fasten the wonderboard to the joists.
Then the tile in a 'subway' pattern. Looks great.
samurai.
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samurai wrote:

Sounds adequate, assuming the floor joists are spaced properly. Say 16" o.c. or close. You can check yourself using the L/360 criteria as prescribed at the web site I posted before. I doubt that you will have any problems. I'm not sure; what is a "subway" pattern? A staggered or offset joint, a basket weave pattern?
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Thanks, there's no flexing in the floorboards. I'm just replacing 1/2-inch water-damaged particle board with cement wonderboard. Evidently I put down some kind of mortar or cement on the floor boards, then the wonderboard on top of that, then fasten with roofing nails or screws. At least that's what they told me at home depot.

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http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/Backerboards/OneQuarterInch_WonderBoardConcrete.aspx?user=diy&lang=en
This page has a video showing how to lay down wonderboard but when I click on either low or high bandwidth, I get the video but no sound. Can anyone get sound? Know what I can do to hear it? My Windows mediaplayer works fine with other files but can't hear any of the videos on this site.
Thanks Sam
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PS - I'm using Media Player Version 9.00003354

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I get sound. Since the file is a .wmv you should have no problems. Can you play other files with a .wmv extension? Maybe the audio codec in your machine is corrupted or some such filtering device (anti-virus, firewall, etc.) is stopping it.

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/Backerboards/OneQuarterInch_WonderBoardConcrete.aspx?user=diy&lang=en
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Thanks. I can download it and hear it, but playing it online is video only. Not a big deal this time.

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On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 04:30:24 GMT, "Sammy bin Snoozin"

Works fine for me. I an using Media Player 9.00.00.2980 running on Win98se with a 56k dialup modem. I chose the low bandwith version.
However, I should mention that it did not play at all the first time I tried. I got the same error that I have been getting everytime I tried to play an online video lately. But I had some problems with Windows last week, and removed a few "lost" files. I kept the download on my drive, so I just re-ran it, and after that it played great. I'd recommend reinstalling media player, it tends to get flakey when other programs are installed. You should not have to remove it, just run the install again. I'm curious, where did you get 9.00003354? I thought version 9 was version 9 and thats it? Are you running WinXP or another OS version? Maybe there is a change for that OS. Otherwise I just got an earlier copy I guess.
I was surprised there were no skips in it. Usually when I play these things on a dialup connection they skip all the time.
Hope this helps
Alvin
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Thanks, will try reinstalling. I'm using Win2000Prof. That's what came out when I ran the then-latest update from microsoft.

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On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 04:28:14 GMT, "Sammy bin Snoozin"

Since my last reply...... Just for grins I tried the HIGH bandwith version on my 56K modem. It also worked fine. Same video, only larger, and it took longer to load.
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On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 04:28:14 +0000, Sammy bin Snoozin wrote:

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/Backerboards/OneQuarterInch_WonderBoardConcrete.aspx?user=diy&lang=en
Download it and try to play it. I use linux and it plays fine using linux's version of media player so you shouldn't have any problem.
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