I want to replace my existing exterior entrance door. I have the
possibility of getting a used door, 35 1/2" x 79", but the existing
door is 35 1/2" x 82"!
Will I be able to fit this replacement door? And what do I do with the
extra 3"? I was thinking of putting a 3" bar of treated wood and then
capping it as the "new" door frame--will this suffice to keep out cold
Whatcha need, good buddy, is one of them door-stretching machines.
Seriously, that's what I did with a customer's door installation. They
wanted a door that matched their other interior doors, and I found one
at the local recycled building materials place that was perfect in every
way except that it was a couple inches short.
Took it to a shop, in Berkeley, CA that grafted on a piece for a very
reasonable charge. They sanded and primed it, so it was paint-ready.
The same should work for an exterior door. Find a competent door and
window shop. They most likely would use a stronger joint for an exterior
door: tongue and groove or some such.
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
You can glue and screw two 1 1\2" pieces, one on each side of the
door, assuming it's a painted finish (remove existing paint etc.)..
You will also need separate little bits to glue into the old hinge
recesses and the mortice for the old lock. You need to use waterproof
glue and rust resistant screws. You need wood slightly over size and
when the glue has set, sand down with belt sander.
If it's a varnished finish, it is a lot trickier to find matching
timber. The other tricky bit is fitting the door into the aparture,
cutting the new hinge recesses and fitting the locks etc,.
That said, a straightforward job for the average DIYer. A couple of
days work. You will need help to lift the door it will be very heavy.
& probably new hinges & locks etc.
Well, wise guy, when speaking of a vertically-oriented rectangle, such
as a door, the sides on the left and right are generally referred to as
the "sides", while the remaining sides are generally referred to as the
"top" and "bottom".
However, if they use other terms on your home planet, my apologies if
I've offended you.
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
You can buy a custom-sized exterior door. Adding onto the door is
probably a lot easier than resizing the door jam. A kickplate at the
bottom will cover most of it. How well it seals greatly depends on
the skill of the installer and nature of the weatherstripping.
Just briefly replying to all of your very helpful insights. First of
all, THANKS for sharing your ideas.
Second, I did learn from it and I will do this:
1. Buy the right wood block, depending on the kind of wood the new
door is made of, i.e., oak, etc.
2. Extend the bottom part of the rectangular door by adding the block
and measuring it for the right fit and try to create a gentle mortise
and tenon at two points.
3. Screw long, rust-proof nails through the block into the door and
also use wood adhesive along the edge to prevent air leaks.
4. Get two metal plates to be larger than the size of the wood
extension, about 1/8" thick or less to cover the wood block extension
and screw it onto both sides of the door, with plenty of adhesive to
prevent air and water leaks.
5. Cover the old hinge areas.
6. Create new holes for new locks and new hinge areas to correspond to
the existing frame.
Someone had asked what was wrong with the existing door: its weather-
worn and cracked. I also wanted a new look and figured a sanding and
painting of the current door would not do the job.
cheers and thanks again,
Personally, if there is a position in the frame where the existing
latch and hinges line up, I'd make it fit there. If that means an inch
on top and 2 inches at the bottom, so be it.
This would be a good opportunity to include a really good bottom seal.
Agreed. And unless you have a set of Norm Abrams (sp?) jigs to make the
mortises with, 2-3 drilled holes and driven dowels (with lotsa glue, of
course) should be more than sufficient to hold the top and/or bottom
extensions on. The grain is going the same way on both pieces, so as
long as the wood is the same species and both pieces are dry, the joint
should never move. Just make sure the ends of the door slab and the
extension pieces are a real tight fit when you glue them up. I presume
this is a paneled door? Along with matching up the existing hinge
mortises and lockset holes (I am almost never that lucky), you want the
panels to be oriented on the door as close as possible to the doors you
are trying to match.
The door I had this type of experience with was made of pine with
Jalousy windows in in it for most of the full length. I squared up the
ends, likewise did the same to a couple of pieces of 2x4 and screwed
and glued the 2 x4 s to the ends of the door. Remove the screws before
you trim it to fit and replace them after you are finished. The repair
turned out to be almost invisible. If I had this to do over again I
would probably use dowls or biscuits to hold the 2x4s in place. At the
time I had to make do with what I had.
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