Extending R-value for cathedral ceiling

With a cathedral ceiling you get one chance to do it right. Put in the max. Stuff in 6" of fiberglass then add as much foam below as you can afford, then add a bit more. I'm in Manitoba, Hydro is recommending R50 now. I put in R60 two years ago. Yes R-Six-Zero.

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Temps. around here drop below -40 Deg F. in the winter. With a good fire going in the wood stove the inside temp. near the ceiling peak is probably 80 or 90 deg. F. even with a fan going. A lot of heat to keep snow off the roof.

As for economy and the 95% - 96% boys, where were they years ago when R12 was enough, then R20, R40.

The cost of heat is only going to go up. The bean counters will whine today because "You won't get the return for your money" then tomorrow they will cry "It costs so much to heat, put in more insulation". In reality that bunch doesn't know their ass from a hole in the ground.

If you are building to sell and make a quick buck then go bean counter minimum, otherwise think 20 years down the road. If not for yourself then for your kids if you want them to be able to afford the place.

Lots of ventilation. I put in metal ridge vent right across all three sections.

One added bonus of the metal ridge vent is that birds don't like to land on the things. they stay away from my roof and crap all over my neighbors roof (ridge vent covered with a shingles) Seagulls, crows etc. the stuff covers half the top of his roof and hardly a drop on mine .

By the way I built that place, I hired out the foundation, shingles and HVAC, the rest I did with help from family and friends, not a fricken bean counter among them. :) :) :) and as they say "Put my money where my mouth is".

LdB

Reply to
L d'Bonnie
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But a 2000 ft^2 R20 roof in a 10,000 DD climate will leak

24 million Btu/year, vs 17 million at R28.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Get an architect or PE to sign an "unvented" drawing?

Sure. And there are degrees of venting. With near-perfect vapor barriers on both sides, a small vapor barrier or roof leak could make a lake. Perhaps the roof should be slightly less airtight than the ceiling, with a ridge vent but no wind-whistling chutes.

If I were building a new house, I might put insulation in the attic floor and make the steep south roof clear Dynaglas polycarbonate plastic and make the underside of the north roof white and collect warm air and light in the attic in wintertime, with a few simple skylights in the attic floor, with no venting in wintertime.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

How strange. Why would the ceiling be so hot with a ceiling fan going? Is the stove red hot, with no insulation in the house walls? :-)

You want lots of R1/inch snow on the roof, no?

How can it melt with that 2" air gap?

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Research your code and recommended energy code and guidlines. R 20-R28 are substandard and inneficient. Your ceiling is where most your heat loss is. R 35 in Zone 5 is considered not optimal, R 60 is. I dont know your Zone but going to R 100 is getting more common in cold areas. You need an airspace but I dought you need 2", 1" should do, Foam chutes are cheap and easy to install. Furring out 2" is a good idea. For the best performance spray on foam, there are types with R7 per " , twice that of fiberglass. Also Fiberglass looses efectivness at extreme cold, maybe near 50-60% at below zero temps. A vapor barrier is needed on fiberglass, not foam, and inside next to the sheeting. 6.5" of closed cell blown in foam is R 45, it may impress you but its still not an optimal R value. Research,

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will help. Insulation manufacturers Dow, Owens Corning etc will recommend maybe R60. I will bet your Govs green sites might be even higher, R 70++, I dought your code is under R35 unless you are on a coast with completly moderate temps, but in canada? What you do now will be it, so if you can do it go for the maximun as it will have a big payback and increase your houses value.

Reply to
m Ransley

Nick, you seem to have no experience heating a house in a cold climate. of course the heat rushes to the peak of his vault! ever heated a house with a wood space heater? an air space alone won't stop snowmelt either. that one has been proven time and again.

Reply to
marson

Don't bother Nick. He's busy trying to solve some partial differential equations to calculate how hot it theoretically should get at the top of a vaulted ceiling, instead of actually having one and knowing it from experience..

Reply to
trader4

Wrong.

Sure. Ever studied basic physics?

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

as a matter of fact i have...but what's your point? you were arguing that it shouldn't get hot up there by your calculations.

Reply to
marson

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