Expand hole in steel?

[knuckle-dragger]

Yes, this is probably the most economical and practical way to go.

[knuckle-dragger]

This seems to be a tool for reaming out WOOD. It's on a page with spade bits and similar wood-only tools. Another problem is that it has to do the job in no more than 1/2 inch. Length looks a lot longer than that.

However, you have given me the name "tapered reamer" which sounds great until one looks at the prices. Just as with the gradual increment approach using drill bits the same technique is needed for tapered reamers but the cost...wow. By the time I reach the last stage (be it 5/8 or 3/4) we're talking $60+ for each increment and that's from MCS Industrial Supply. Although they do have a tapered brace reamer which might do the whole job and it's only $85 however then I need a tapered brace...

[knuckle-dragger]

Hmmm. Don't I need oxygen to do cutting using acetylene?

In any event sounds like overkill. If I wanted to do some welding I'd use a stick welder which I have and weld on two rings (eye bolts cut to length) a couple of inches away. This is what I anticipated the contractor doing BTW but unfortunately my attention lapsed.

[Steve B]

I have seen tapered reamers at pawn shops that were damaged for $2. From what it sounds like, you may have to shorten one if you bought one with too much penetration before engaging. Cut off the broken section. I have also seen them at yard sales for 25 cents. I have about a dozen, and don't have ten bucks in the lot. Don't use them very often, but when I do, they are a real work saver.

Steve Steve

[Steve B]

The type of steel would determine that. If it is cast iron, you'd be wasting time, and possibly magnifying the problem.

Steve

[clare]

If you are worried about burglar "proofing" a hardened shank padlock in a mild steel "ear" is a waste. The ear pert can be hack-sawed off quite easily - while even a 3/8" hardened padlock will require either a grinder or a torch. No such thing as "burglar proof".

The setup on a shipping container is as close as you'l get - hardended padlock up inside a 1/4" thick steel box for the main lock, and 1/4" hardened padlocks on each of the four "draw-in" larches.

[Steve B]

"Bob F" wrote

Well, yes AND no. When drilling into fresh metal, there is even a sequence, sometimes requiring a smaller pilot hole to even get a big drill to start cutting. Then, as with cast iron, if this is cast iron, the rough surface of the metal can cause chattering and jumping. Drilling a hole in this stuff is going to be "fun". I have enlarged many holes, and sometimes it goes like a breeze, and sometimes, it's a dog fight. You won't know until it's over. Saying it's going to be easy is optimistic. I hope it does go like a breeze for the OP. Sounds like a restricted space, and those high torque drills and big bits can put a hurtin on you. I had a Skil that wasn't very big, but got my shoulder GOOD a couple of times. Years later I had surgery twice on that shoulder.

Steve

[Steve B]

wrote

Google "how to pick a padlock". Someone experienced can be in there in fifteen seconds or less. OR, I have a pair of bolt cutters that are 54" tall. Ironically, I bought them at a police evidence auction.

Steve

[clare]

You will NOT pick either of the padlocks I have occaision to open on a weekly bsis 0 not in 15 seconds, or 15 DAYS. I'll guarantee it. And a bolt cutter won'r cut the shank either. a cutoff wheel will get you through in a few minutes - per side. And you need to cut both if you are going to get in.

On the one application you will need to cut off the 1/4" thick box to get to the shackle before you start grinding on it.

C4 would be a lot easier, and likely less expensive.

[knuckle-dragger]

You are of course absolutely correct about burglar-proofing however even the shipping container isn't burglar-proof. Forget padlocks! Can't they (whoever "they" are) just go in through the sides? A plasma cutter will go through just about anything, I'm told.

But that's not the sort of burglar-proofing I'm talking about. Like they say, if you encounter a bear in the woods you don't have to outrun him, you just have to outrun your companion (something like that).

This is part of a thing referred to as a coal-hole cover and is just below an air conditioner cage which is just to the right of the mail box which is a couple of feet from the front gate (think prison cell door, not the thing in most people's front fence). The coal hole cover is a frame set in concrete with a steel plate (about 3' by 3') held on by two side facing strap hinges on the house side and a liftable rosette on the front side (to lift the plate for access and originally to dump coal down (the reason for the name)). At the bottom of the hole (concrete lined) there's a double thick (2 sheets of 3/4 glued and screwed together) plywood door bolted on the inside with 2 vertical bolts and one cross (or normal) one. The bottom of the hole is about 15 feet from the cover. To increase the security, 20 years ago I welded two pieces of angle iron on the sides of the frame (underneath the cover) and constructed a guard of 1/2 inch bars in a cross formation (think prison again). These were secured by welded-on bolts going under the angle iron and held in position (closed) by padlocks going through the hole in the slide portion. The prison bars are needed because sometimes the plywood door and the cover are open for ventilation leading to the fear that not only could some mope (ask Hey Bub) enter with malicious intent but the mailman or UPS guy could stumble and kill himself by falling down the shaft.

Well, about 2 years ago, due to my poor maintenance (and the fact that it's about 110 years old) the cover finally rusted beyond saving so I had it rebuilt but instead of the prison type bars (the mailman could still break a leg) I had the contractor use the grating steel that's seen on subway ventilation covers. Now (change of locking hole size) I want to make it easier to open and close the grating (I also use it to get out ladders from the cellar). Phew! Now you know everything. Let me emphasize that everything is mild steel; no cast iron.

Thanks to all of you for your help.

[Steve B]

There are applications that would be difficult. There are very few that are impossible. Today's padlocks can be picked, bumpkeyed or opened in many ways. They are just devices, and a key is an easy thing to get. Look at the lock. Is there a number by the keyhole? Anyone in the locksmith world can buy a duplicate.

I'm not saying yours is one that can be compromised. I saw a lot of fine lock arrangements that were on pool tables, dispensing machines, etc. But none were foolproof or burglarproof. And with a pro, all bets are off.

A cutting torch even in the hands of an amateur can cut 1/4" steel very quickly.

Every device I have ever created was merely to delay entry, or to make the bad buy move on to the next location. I knew how easy it would be to defeat them if someone chose to do so. And would tell that to the purchaser. Many can be defeated as easily as a chain with a hook and a truck with a receiver hitch and a ball.

And C4 is NOT hard to get, either. Thermite is easier, cheap, is silent, and that will melt rocks.

Steve

[Thomas]

High five dude.

[clare]

I'd LOVE to see someone pick either a Medeco or a Multi-Lock Interactive padlock, and unless the locksmith is also a crook, good luck getting a key!!!!!

[Joe]

Given your better description of the problem, seems to me the ideal solution then is to borrow or rent a torch set if you don't have one, and simply bring the hasps up to dull red heat and mold into position with a nice long piece of stiff steel sized to the holes. Allow to cool and done. Fabricators do this all the time.

Joe

Joe

[jeff_wisnia]

If no one's suggested it yet, I'd vote for a 3/8" rotary file in your electric drill. Even better a carbide rotary file if you can afford it. Might take a few minutes, but you can easily "tune up" the holes tojust the shape needed.

Jeff

[DerbyDad03]

re: "Sounds like a restricted space, and those high torque drills and big bits can put a hurtin on you."

Why do we always hang on for dear life when a drill tries to take us for a ride? ;-)

I was enlarging a bolt hole in one of the brackets for my garage door tracks a couple of weeks ago. I busted one of the flat-head track bolts and the only spares I had were a larger diameter.

Anyway, it was in one of the upper brackets and instead of grabbing a step ladder so I could hold the drill at chest level (heck, it's only

*one* hole) I just reached my arm up, fully extended, and started drilling.

I'm sure you can guess how it felt when the bit grabbed, I instinctively held on tight and the drill tried to pull my fullly extended arm even higher, in that familiar twisting motion.