Ethanol In Garden Tractors, Lawn Mowers

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Pete C. wrote:

Well, if you're into the listing game, ( :) ) then there's the JD 955, the JD 4440 and 4640, JLG 40H, w/o itemizing haying and harvesting equipment, etc., ...
...

If it's on hand for over a year, your capacity is too great is the point and you've got much inventory aging that isn't doing anything useful. Get the quantities on hand such that you're turning it over in a few months at most.
And if it takes 3-1/2 hr to mow the lawn you need a larger mower or better layout...or more goats. :) (Altho if I bag the lawn it can take close to that w/ handling the clippings and if add in time for mowing all the grounds around the outbuilings, corrals and feedlot and equipment park areas it would be a couple days. Doesn't rain so much here that have to do anything but the yard very often, thankfully.
We go thru couple thousand gal diesel/month during peak seasons of planting/harvest. Gasoline consumption isn't near what diesel is, of course, but still a 250 gal bulk tank doesn't make it through more than 3-4 months for the pickups and old trucks and so on so the little dabs that the small engines use is the spillings, basically.
...

Well, why did you go on about over a year then???

I bought it new and it has never been out of my possission, sorry...it had been used the summer before we moved and parked as it was the last time it was used in TN before returning to KS. Here the garden spot was/is large enough I used the 5-ft tiller on the 955 and the 3-ft on the old 112 and never bothered to get the little hand guy out until this year I decided to see if the cultivator attachment might fit between the rows. Turns out it did and in this sandy soil instead of the TN red clay and rock and on flat ground instead of TN hillside it worked quite nicely...
And of course the fuel left in the tank _was_ pretty nasty; I've never said I'd not use fresh fuel in anything that was stagnant for over a year for starting (altho it certainly would run quite unaffected to simply fill the tank w/ fresh).
--
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Same here... Over the last 25 years I have never used Stabil and never had any problems with the mower , trimmer , chainsaw , ect being stored over the winter....
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Murriel wrote:

Which were simply rebranded (and therefor probably significantly more expensive) automotive-grade oils...

The only issue would be very old engines that might have some issues w/ o-rings, etc., in fuel system that are not alcohol-resistant. Anything 10 years or newer (and probably closer to 20 in reality) will have no issues w/ 10% blends.
--


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"Murriel" wrote:

Who the heck told you that? The dealer of the shop that wanted to sell you that four dollar quart of oil?
Both Briggs and Tecumseh recommend the use of standard SAE 30 weight detergent motor oil to be used in their engines. The only exception is Tec, who recommends SAE 10w30 weight detergent motor oil for use in cold temperatures.
Buy SAE 30 weight detergent oil. Change it once a year, when you sharpen your blade. Always use fresh gas, and run it out at the end of the season. Oh, and clean under the deck after each mow, and let it dry.
Jon
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Jon Danniken wrote: ...

...
Ayup...
_MANY_ years ago (like 50 or so) many small 4-cycle engines did recommend non-detergent oils, but that has been so long ago there are precious few if any still running outside a collector's collection.
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Of course, it's always good to read and follow the manual. That said, it's also important to use good brand of motor oil. For whatever reasons, the cheap oils don't run well in air cooled engines.
My fav is Castrol, but other folks have had good experience with other oils. I think anyone using other than castrol is an impolite person who lacks graces. Let the flame wars begin!
--
Christopher A. Young
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Castrol is an oil products marketer.
Union 76 (conocophilips) pumps it out of the ground, ships it, refines it, and puts it into quart-sized containers.
I buy Union 76 oil. It's cheaper than the "fancy" brands, too.
Jon
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Murriel wrote:

Don't know about the oil but my 3 year old snowblowers manual says not to use gas with alcohol in it. I had not noticed this and left stabilized alcohol containing gas in it and it would not start. I believe repair shop had to replace some seals.
On my 2 cycle Lawnboy, I was using a good brand 2 cycle oil but constantly having to have carburetor cleaned. Now I only use their oil and have not had any problems.
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On Jun 16, 8:43am, snipped-for-privacy@home.home (Murriel) wrote:

If you believe that special oil is needed, you have a problem.
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On Jun 16, 8:43am, snipped-for-privacy@home.home (Murriel) wrote:

I don't know if I've just been lucky or what when it comes to using ethanol gas in my small engine equipment??? But I've never had a problem with it, so far. I have some old equipment as well. Like about a 1970 vintage Simplicity riding lawnmower that refuses to quit. I never even run out the gas tank at the end of the season and it sits through a very long northern MN winter with NO stabilizer either. It has always fired right back up when I need to use it in the spring. Same old ethanol blended gas. Amazing. I also use ethanol in my chainsaws (4 or 5 of them, I lost count) from a 1970's Stihl to a 2008 Husqvarna. Never run the tanks out of them either. I also store ethanol gas in 5 gallon plastic containers for up to 6 months at a time and have never had to waste a drop of it due to it going bad. I could go on and on but I just have not seen or had a problem using ethanol gas in any of my small engine equipment regardless of its age. I also use a good quality 2 cycle oil but not necessarily a name brand oil such as Stihl or Husqvarna. I think some people who have problems with their lawn mowers, etc. not starting the next season just blame the problem on the gas and take it in to a shop and they maby have to put in a new spark plug or clean out the air filter or something simple and charge a pretty penny and then tell the customer it was a "stale gas problem." Just my opinion..... Steve
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Steve wrote:

There is a product on the market now called 50FUEL It's pure gasoline premixed to 50:1 oil/gas or 40:1 Shelf life of 2 years at least. For things like trimmers and chainsaws, it seems to solve some starting and run problems on my equipment. Retails for $4 - $5 /qt
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RB wrote:

Wow, $16-$20 per gallon?! That's sure paying a lot extra for the convenience of not spending 35 seconds dumping a little bottle of pre-measured 2-cycle oil into a small gas can.
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Pete C. wrote:

I did the math. I'm not driving to the gas station to fill up a 1-gallon can, nor buying the oil separately. And I'm getting pure product with no ethanol. My Ryobi trimmer had been giving me problems with hard starting and running. It's much better with the first tank of this stuff. A quart will last me about 2 months of summer usage.
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RB wrote:

I don't make a special trip to fill a gas can and just bring it along and stop on the way home and fuel the car at the same time. You can buy synthetic oil that contains fuel stabilizer in an easy measure bottle. I noticed a significant improvement in operation when I started using it.
I haven't noticed any issues with ethanol blend except that it was stupidly implemented. Currently only two brands even sell it in my area because it is more expensive than "plain" gasoline.
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wrote:

The ethanol blends CAN muck up the fuel lines, depending what material they are made of. I replace mine with Tygothane. It can also deteriorate diaphragms in carbs.
When my saw is not running on Aviation gas I use Shell Ultra - because it is always ethanol free in Canada and has the octane required for the hot little Remington.
Secret to buying ethanol free premium for small engine use - start the pump and put a gallon or so in your car - then fill your can. This way any regular left in the hose (assuming a mixer pump) goes in the car tank. Shut off the pump and pay for the gas - then switch to regular and put gas in your car. That way YOU get the premium that was left in the hose in YOUR car - not the next guy.
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I last filled my chain-saw (an old Remington) over 2 years ago with some mixed gas drained from a friend's ultralight airplane. It is 40:1 standard air-cooled engine 2 stroke oil mixed with 100LL aviation gas. The saw started on the second pull when I needed it today. The gas was low in the tank so I filled it out of my plastic fuel can with more of the same gas. This little Remington is a VERY high compression engine - it will pull the ctarter cord right out of your hand if you are not real careful starting it. The cackle from the exhaust lets you know it is a pretty high performance machine. 24" bar on 35cc, IIRC. Might be 38.
Cut 2 trees with it this afternoon..
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:>

So I should get my utility gas at the local airport?

Interesting, I have just an 18" bar on my 48cc Shindaiwa. I've cut a couple rocks in half with it (embedded in trees).
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On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:40:32 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

It's a 46cc.
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As to oil, I use a good brand of 10w30, and be done with it. Castrol is my brand of choice.
Gasohol. I'd avoid it as long as possible. Eventually, the Fed will require all stations to serve it, and then you'll have no choice.
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Murriel wrote:

You were misled about the oil, and the E10 fuel will not harm your lawnmower.
s
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