Epoxy for metals

[Don Y]

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results; not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

[gfretwell]

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long would you plan on storing it? As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is running. The same is true of silicone sealants

[Don Y]

It "keeps" well enough (as in, retains it's effectiveness). It just doesn't "stay inside" the container (toothpaste-style tubes). Particularly the hardener.

Tubes were opened a little less than a month ago. Hardener is noticeably "soiled" on the outside (yes, I put the caps on tight).

[gfretwell]

Just keep them in a zip bag if it bothers you. I keep mine in an Akro Bin along with other adhesives.

[Frank]

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have not used it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst possible plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

[Don Y]

Why not find another vendor who makes a product that DOESN'T leave a mess on the tube, wherever it's stored *and* your hands when you use it?

[Don Y]

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened" "Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably less than a year old.

OTOH, I recall painting the garage floor many decades ago with some epoxy paint that was probably stored for > 5 years (in a sealed container).

[Vic Smith]

I buy epoxy and superglue in the smallest amounts they sell, and toss what's left after I use it.

[Paintedcow]

I've always praised JB Weld. It fixes a lot of stuff, and has always held up well.

However, I can not offer as much praise for their company. Some years ago, I wanted to coat the entire bottom of a metal livestock tank which was rusty. Those tanks are costly, so it was worth doing. I bought 5 tubes of JB Weld at a local farm supply store. Apparently it had been on the shelf too long, and was very stiff and hard to get out of the tube. In fact it was so hard, I had to press down on the tube with my shoe to get it out. Then it was very hard to mix and to spread. After using 3 tubes, and cussing the whole time, I bought several more tubes elsewhere and that worked fine. I tried to return the 2 remaining tubes to the farm store, and they told me they said that it "cant be bad", and refused to give me my money back.

I called the JB Weld company, and offerred to mail them the unused tubes and those I had used too. (after explaining the situation). They told me I would not have to mail them, and that they would send me 5 new tubes. That was 4 or 5 years ago. I still have not gotten them in the mail.

[gfretwell]

I have never found Gorilla glue to be that great. I did a controlled test on softwood and hardwood bonding (3 combinations) and regular old yellow carpenter glue beat it.

[Don Y]

Years ago, I was given a bunch of these tiny, "single use" packets; sort of like the sealed "ketchup" packets but smaller -- resin and hardener side-by-side. Fold in half (so the hardener and resin packets are on top of each other). Cut the end off (scissors or utility knife). Pinch end between fingers and slide fingers up towards the open end to force both ingredients out onto a mixing surface.

No practical way fo saving anything "in" the packets so you didn't even try! And, as there wasn't a whole lot of material there to begin with, you never felt like you were discarding much!

[Don Y]

I've found that "Krazy Glue Craft" holds up well! It comes in a bottle like a nail-polish bottle (with a little "brush" applicator) and screw on cap -- instead of those little squeeze tubes that immediately clog.

[gfretwell]

I agree with Vic. Buy the crazy glue stuff in small, "one shot" tubes. The discount places sell them in a 6 pack for a buck or so. I do buy epoxy in larger containers but I use a lot of it. I have several different kinds for different stuff. It is a subtle difference but a difference nonetheless.

[Frank]

I've used 5 minute type epoxy and it was good til the last drop. I suspect cross contamination.

[Frank]

The old carpenter glue is better for gluing wood and polyurethanes don't hold up as well for long term use.

[rbowman]

Because I've never found a brand of epoxy that comes in toothpaste tubes that doesn't? The plunger types are even worse though I think I've seen some that come with a mixing tube that are meant for one time use.

[Frank]

Might mention that my comments on long term stability of epoxies are based on the pure ingredients which generally are the epoxy bisphenol A diglycidyl ether and an aliphatic amine or poly amide curing agent. This is the stuff I have stored in my basement that is 40 years old and still looks good.

Materials such as J-B weld contain fillers like calcium carbonate, talc and metal powder along with some solvents.

These could change stability and lead to shorter lifetime of the ingredients. For example, the solvent could evaporate and make the mass tough to work with.

Same type comments would hold for the fast curing epoxy which would contain a catalyst that might lower long term stability.

So it is hard to judge the storability of epoxies under these circumstances.

[Micky]

Absolutely.

PC-7 and PC-11 are great. And there's no need to buy a new PC, only the glue.

I would buy it in a pair of 4oz. cans. Ace Hardware has that size iirc. If you use separate popsicle sticks or separate screwdrivers for each can, and never let any of one touch the other, I've gone 20 years on the same 8 ounces and the unused stuff looks like new. ( Most of my repairs are small. I haven't been doing as much gluing in the last 10 years (plus I also use 5-minute epoxy in the syringe.)

I'm not sure of the difference except the first is dark grey and the second is white. I think the second was labeled for marine use, but the first is water-resistant I think, also. Still, they must know something. So if you need to glue a marine, use PC-11.

PC-7 " Two-part multipurpose epoxy adhesive paste works as a bonding agent, sealant, and filler for a range of indoor and outdoor applications Bonds many materials, including fiberglass, wood, concrete, many metals, brick, glass, ceramic, and rubber Seals oil, gas, and water tank leaks, as well as plumbing and masonry cracks Fills holes, castings, and molds Application temperature range is 35 to 115 degrees F, and service temperature range is -20 to +200 degrees F PC-7 formulation provides extended working time, for large and critical jobs, which allow the user to reposition work or make changes. High "wet grab" or tack of PC-7 Paste Epoxy makes overhead and sidewall work easy, without drip or sag. [it sagged for me, but if I'd waited 2 more minutes before I put it on, it wouldn't have. Better to put it on early and keep pushing it back where it should go.] Note: PC-7 will not bond to wax paper, Teflon, Polyethylene and some other plastics. Test a small area when in doubt."

PC-11 " Two-part marine epoxy adhesive paste bonds materials in dry, wet, and underwater environments. Bonds many materials, including fiberglass, concrete, many metals, glass, ceramic, and rubber Can be used in indoor and outdoor applications, with a temperature range of 35 to 115 degrees F and a service temperature range -20 to

+200 degrees F High-tack paste can be used in vertical and overhead applications Resists mild acids, caustics, detergents, gasoline, fuel oil, and fresh and salt water"

They are not as drippy as JBWeld, and can be smoothed with a wet finger. (Tastes terrible. Use the next finger.)

It sticks to glass, aiui.

My first occasion to use one was a dripping drain pipe below a dripping faucet. I didn't feel like fixing everything so I only did what was essential, the drain, and even though it was dripping water while I worked on it, PC-7 still hardened and was waterproof. Incredible. It takes about 5 minutes to harden, and it would droop while i was waiting, so I'd push it back up, and eventually it hardeded while it was up, in good contact with much of the pipel

In another case, I was missing the cap for a wine sack. I coated the threads with vaseline and molded a cap from PC-7. When it hardened, I drilled a hole for a string to tie it to the wine sack. I'll admit I never use the thing, but it's still good 40 years later.

Another time I had a commercial grade food mixer, and the teeth were damaged from one fiber gear. 5 were missing. I put a lump of PC-7 on the area and when it dried, I carved teeth in it. It only ran for a minute, before one or more teeth broke, but I think that's pretty good Little teeth under a lot of pressure, even the originals broke.

I also patched a sauce pan, and then forgot and boiled all the water out of it. It still didn't leak.

has six different sizes.

seven sizes. including one ounce.

[Micky]

i must admit that my 5-minute epoxy for plastics in a syringe is dripping out of hte syringe, and I didn't notice, and now I have to clean it up. I stopped it by pointing the opening up.

But other plastic siamese syringes have lasted for years. While some have hardened after a couple years.

[Micky]

That's because the products were invented before personal computers were.

Despite what it says, it cleans up with water.

Directions: Using separate knives to remove amount needed, mix equal parts A (grey) and B (black) on flat clean surface until uniform color is

[I use some glossy cardboard like a cereal box. I don't know why I want glossy, considering I throw it away.]

achieved. Surfaces to be bonded must be free of dirt, oil, rust, etc. For best results, rough up the surface PC-7® will be bonding to. [I've not had to do this] Normally, no vice or clamp needed. Prop or tape heavy objects to a wall or ceiling.

Apply PC-7® Epoxy Paste in any thickness to both sides of surface and bring together firmly. Be careful to insure that ample amount of PC-7® remains between the contact surfaces. Use screen wire or fiberglass cloth to reinforce large voids and gaps.

Denatured alcohol is excellent for smoothing applied PC-7®. Also use Denatured alcohol to clean surfaces before applying.

After cure: Paint, Drill, Machine, Sand, File, Tap, or Saw.