emergency heating of home with hot water tank

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On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 23:27:26 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"

During the Y2K flap EVERYONE (with no brain cells, which is a lot of people) was buying generators. Yet there seemed to be no super deals on used generators on Jan 2nd.
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wrote:

I think the Y2K generators got gobbled up by the construction industry and the housing boom. Builders were in such a hurry to get houses to market that they were "prairie building" in areas that did not have water or power until days before they closed. That required a lot of generators. In the neighborhoods my wife built in you heard the constant hum of generators everywhere.
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wrote:

Why would the water be cool? Unless the WH is broken it will be hot.
But a hose won't radiate much heat. Better to stop the tub and run the shower until the tub is 3/4 full. The steam will humidify the air in the house and give a much greater feeling of comfort than the heat from the same amount of water.
You should be there while the shower runs, because the overflow is totally insufficient to actually drain overfllowing water. It will run over your tub and through the floor to the stuff below. Many overflows seem to do almost nothing at all.
I say 3/4 to allow room for you to make a mistake of a minute or two.
After youturn off the water, let the hot water sit in the tub until it is cold. That will release heat and humidity also.
You can also boil water on your stove, gas or electric. It takes an hour a gallon or something like that to evaporate water, once it is boiling. I forget, but you can figure it out. If you let the pot boil dry, you may well damage the pot, but you probably won't start a fire unless there is some othe factor I can't foresee.

It won't work well at all. But I have on numerous occaions heated my apartment in Brooklyn, NY, and later my two story 1400 sq. ft. home in Maryland that way. It can make a 50 degree house feel like at least 60 degrees. And that is only one bathtub of water per night. And almost never the stove and bathtub on the same night. I didn't do more because I figure there is a limit to what humidity can do, but I'm not sure the limit isn't higher than what I did.
Also wear a lot of clothes, a t-shirt, shirt, sweater, and jacket if necessary. Sleep with your clothes on including socks, and get an electric blanket. Every blanket I've had was warm on a setting of 1 out of 10 and hot at 2 out of ten. I don't know what 7 or 8 would be like. If you can't tell if the blanket is heating, fold it a few times and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then you wiilll be able to feel the heat. Don't leave it folded liek that.
An electric or kerosen space heaters if necessary, but I've been too cheap to use those. I figure when I'm cold, I'm losing weight.

Of course.

An emergency generator won't help if the furnace is broken. I've only once lost heat because I lost electricity. But I've lost heat because the furnace, either the landlord's or mine, was broken on several occaiosns.

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Unless you are using a "flash heater", once the hot water is used up..the "make up time"..the time the hot water heater needs to reheat the 25-60 gallons in it..is rather long.
Gunner
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Since the water flow is very slow, the WH has plenty of time to recover.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 23:27:27 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"

ooookay
Gunner
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The theory being that by the time the water gets to the end of the hose, it's lost its heat. I don't know how effective this is, but I did hear it mentioned on the AM radio one time when there was a power cut near me.
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On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 23:27:27 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"

The spray from a shower gives up heat a great deal faster than a hose will. More surface area, for one thing.
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I did that one time during a power cut. Set off the smoke detector. But, it did a nice job of warming the bathroom.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Running the shower will cause it to snow in your house.
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Of course, if you're indoors, have food, and wearing appropiate clothes, it would have to be well below zero before you're actually in any danger, or even particular discomfort. Put on a hat that covers your ears, a scarf, light gloves, and better socks.
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wrote:

This is stupid. You wont get enough heat out of a hose.
Here's a better plan. Drive your car thru the front of your house, so only the front of the car is inside the house. Liberally apply duct tape between the vehicles body and the remains of your house walls to seal any gaps. Leave the car run. The cars radiator and cooling fan will divert the engines heat into your home keeping you comfortably warm.
Note: (Even if you are a republican, you must apply the duct tape LIBERALLY).
Professor Master Mind
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On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 05:57:42 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@a.o.l.com wrote:

Actually..a very bad idea. Cooling fans on cars are designed to pull air IN from the front of the car..and exhaust it out the back via the underside. So you would be sucking all the warm air from inside the house and using it to cool the engine, then exhausting it outside.
You would be better served to Back it onto the wall, to the front support posts, then taping all your vacuum cleaner hoses together and stucking them on the exhaust pipe and routing the end of the hose outside.
But remember when wrapping the hoses and the car with duct tape..only wrap to the Right.
<G>
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harbor freight has low cost enerators for under 200 bucks you can get a 2000 watt unit, enough to run a fridge OR gas furnce, OR one sem mjor load and some lights
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