Electronic oven on the fritz

We live in the Houston area, so we evacuated when hurricane Rita threatened last week. We made the mistake of leaving the electricity turned on to the house. When we returned, it was obvious from the clocks that the juice had failed for some period while we were gone. There must have been some strong thunderstorms because the microwave and the oven were both damaged. The microwave had a surge protector on it (because of a previous strike that fried the original) but the LED panel was still damaged.
The oven, an 11 year old GE with electronic controls didn't fare as well. As long as power is applied the oven beeps continuously and the display shows "F1". Pushing the "clear" button does nothing. Pushing "clock" will stop the beeping temporarily (about 30 seconds) but then the beeping returns. Turning the power off at the circuit breaker for a while and then back on has no effect.
Any suggestions, please?
Alex
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Alex wrote:

Hi,
No model#'s posted, but some common F1's....
F0 and F1 - Failed Thermistor Control - Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F0 or F1 - Failed transistor in control - If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad
F0 - F1 - F7 Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on. Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by: 1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad. 2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 30 minutes to see if Code recurs: If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control. If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Thanks for the detailed reply, Jeff. Looks like I need a new ERC. I'll have to compare the cost of the ERC to a new oven and go from there. BTW, the model # is: JKP14WOP3WG.
Thanks again,
Alex
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Consider fixing the reason for that failure. A plug-in protector does not even claim to protect from what is suspected harmed electronics. Effective protection (which also costs tens of times less money per protected appliance) is a 'whole house' protector. Effective because it is earthed (assuming a dwelling's earth ground meets or exceeds post 1990 NEC requirements).
Effective 'whole house' protectors are sold in Lowes (GE and Cutler-Hammer) and in Home Depot (Intermatic). Other responsible protector manufacturers are Siemens, Leviton, Polyphaser, and Square D. Your protector was from what manufacturer?
What does that plug-in protector do? It shunts (connects) all wires together during a transient. IOW it provided a transient with more paths, destructively, through the adjacent appliance. Plug-in protectors don't mention the typically destructive transient they DON'T protect from. In fact they avoid the entire issue of effective protection. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. No earth ground on that plug-in protector means no effective protection. You even have an example of that fact.
Alex wrote:

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Hi,

I found JKP14WP3WG
WB27K5123 Control - No Longer Available
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N%8965 Control panel assy-white
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Alex writes:

Why are lightning and surges are the mythological causes of every failure? Even in the absence of any evidence or likelihood.
Presumably these electronic devices sat in a *condensing atmosphere* for days or weeks. Not for nothing do electronic components specs say 80 pct RH max, non-condensing.
Get the ambient humidity down and let them dry out for a similar period before you condemn them. Get a reliable hygrometer or psychrometer. Where you live your air conditioning is critical, and you ought to check the performance in terms of dehumidification. Anything over about 60 pct RH will cause you no end of costly problems, more costly than good air conditioning.
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