I'm putting together a plan to install can lights and some track
lighting in my kitchen. Since we're removing the ceiling entirely, it's
a good opportunity to rewire the whole room. I've put together the
electrical/construction plan that I am going to submit to the
inspector. I plan to do the work myself and don't want to look like a
complete fool, I wondered if anyone might glance at my plan and offer
criticism....any input is appreciated.
I posted it here: http://www.vberth.com/kitchen /
I'm submitting a description and an electrical diagram. Does it look
reasonable, or am I in over my head?
I didn't look at detail but quickly:
Does the Code still require high efficiency (non-incandescent)
lights for the main task lighting in the kitchen?
Are the 2nd floor outlets you show tapped off the countertop
recept circuit? If so, that would not be good.
Countertop needs 2 dedicated 20 Amp ckts- feed nothing else,
although the nook and dining rm could be served too.
Bath needs sep 20 Amp ckt for GFI rcept and sep lighting ckt.
If you're fortunate, the inspector will sit down and make
suggestions to ease this project thru.
Not *that* Code, TITLE 24:
It's being enforced (in various versions) by local gov't in other
states as well, so it's wise to ask first.
Very nice plan. Doing the work should take less time than the plan. As Jim
said, you need two 20 amp circuits for kitchen counter outlets. Counter
outlets must be placed so no location along the counter wall is more than 24
inches from an outlet, and any piece of counter 12 inch or larger requires
and outlet. The bathroom can be entirely wired from one dedicated 20 amp
circuit, or you can share a 20 amp circuit for several bathroom GFCI
outlets, and use a different circuit for lights, fans, etc.
Personally, I wouldn't use MC. It's more difficult to use than NM and tough
to bend into the recessed fixtures in a residential application.
Thanks to all...incredibly helpful.
One additional question: It's not difficult to add a separate 20 amp
breaker for the kitchen outlets. However, I don't understand the
requirement that there are two 20 amp circuits for the outlets. I have
four outlets, does that mean 2 outlets on each?
RBM remove this wrote:
Those two circuits can be used for dining room and other kitchen wall
outlets as well. The intent is to have both circuits at the counter
location, so several appliances can be used at the same time. How you divide
the circuits among the outlets is up to you.
Go to local library and borrow a copy of the NEC.
Or, they may have DIY books which are very easy to understand.
In the meantime, peruse:
NEC required two dedicated 20A "Appliance outlets 12AWG wire not 14
It looks like your refrigerator is on a common circuit. I personally
would make it's own dedicated circuit, GFCI is not required for it.
What about power for your stove? Even a Gas range usually has a 120
volt circuit for lights, timers, igniter, etc.
Is there a microwave or fan unit over the stove? Again I would make
that an additional dedicated circuit.
Is there a garbage disposal unit under the sink? High draw should also
make this a separate circuit
You are showing a table lamp but not a receptacle for it, just a
lighting outlet which would not jive
Why do you have GFCI's (3) along the wall? Not required to be GFCI.
Note that convenience outlets are required max 6' apart along any wall.
Also if you do want GFCI, you only need the first in the chain to be
GFCI, the balance of the outlet will be protected from "load"
connection on GFCI
As long as you have the walls open, run new telephone, computer and
CATV cables back to services
Where is the switch that is controlling your entrance light
It's not really clear what are "entrances to the room, it may require
You may want to center the pantry light, it looks like it's in a corner
and light will be blocked by shelving
Is that a dishwasher next to the sink? Another separate circuit is
recommended if so.
Oh well back to the drqawing board
Just to clarify, "convenience outlets" are not required to be 6 feet apart
along any wall. Where they are required, you cannot be more than 6 foot from
an outlet along the wall, which essentially puts them every 12 foot max
Don't sweat the details now. I started with a similar plan and brought it
to city hall. This initiated the plan check phase of my project. The city
employee went over the plan and told me what to change then I came back
about a week later and we went over it again. On the third visit it was
good enough to issue the permit.
Mostly for me, they wanted the diagram you have on the lower portion of your
plan and a site plan which is a diagram of the entire lot with the kitchen
shaded in and a note saying "area of remodel here". Your diagram should
clearly indicate added or removed structure if any applies.
My third page was a plan before any changes were made. I did all my work in
an old copy od AutoCAD but you can probably get away with any good drawing
program as long as you draw all the detail they require.
I had to prepare three copies. One for me (job copy) one for the city and
one for the tax collector.
Also they don't want color for the most part, change the branch lines to two
different dashed line types.
Quick glance - You do know you do not need a gfci at each location, just
the first outlet in the chain. Also, Refrigerator from what I remember
should NOT be on GFCI.
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