Electrical Plan

Hello, I'm putting together a plan to install can lights and some track lighting in my kitchen. Since we're removing the ceiling entirely, it's a good opportunity to rewire the whole room. I've put together the electrical/construction plan that I am going to submit to the inspector. I plan to do the work myself and don't want to look like a complete fool, I wondered if anyone might glance at my plan and offer criticism....any input is appreciated.
I posted it here: http://www.vberth.com/kitchen /
I'm submitting a description and an electrical diagram. Does it look reasonable, or am I in over my head?
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

<SNIP>
I didn't look at detail but quickly:
Does the Code still require high efficiency (non-incandescent) lights for the main task lighting in the kitchen?
Are the 2nd floor outlets you show tapped off the countertop recept circuit? If so, that would not be good.
Countertop needs 2 dedicated 20 Amp ckts- feed nothing else, although the nook and dining rm could be served too.
Bath needs sep 20 Amp ckt for GFI rcept and sep lighting ckt.
If you're fortunate, the inspector will sit down and make suggestions to ease this project thru.
Jim
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wrote:

What do you mean "still"? AFAIK, it never did.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote:

Not *that* Code, TITLE 24:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg05012411875.html?18
It's being enforced (in various versions) by local gov't in other states as well, so it's wise to ask first.
Jim
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wrote:

I have an actual sticker pointing out the minimum efficiency placed onto my plan when it was checked and approved. It certainly was a requirement for me (not with me now, so I can't quote the sticker)
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wrote:

Ahh, yes -- the good old People's Republic of Kalifornia. Makes me glad I live in Indiana.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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wrote:

im not a electrician nor do i play one on tv but if you jump up to 20 amp, wouldnt you also also need to go to 12/2 wire instead of the 14/2 he has on the print?
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Gary The Happy Pirate wrote:

<SNIP>
Yes, you're 100% right.
In this case, he might go with a single run of 12/3 and use a 3-wire Edison ckt which produces 2 20Amp circuits. (Just to muddy the water...)
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Thats a nice presentation at your web site.
--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
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Very nice plan. Doing the work should take less time than the plan. As Jim said, you need two 20 amp circuits for kitchen counter outlets. Counter outlets must be placed so no location along the counter wall is more than 24 inches from an outlet, and any piece of counter 12 inch or larger requires and outlet. The bathroom can be entirely wired from one dedicated 20 amp circuit, or you can share a 20 amp circuit for several bathroom GFCI outlets, and use a different circuit for lights, fans, etc. Personally, I wouldn't use MC. It's more difficult to use than NM and tough to bend into the recessed fixtures in a residential application.

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Thanks to all...incredibly helpful.
One additional question: It's not difficult to add a separate 20 amp breaker for the kitchen outlets. However, I don't understand the requirement that there are two 20 amp circuits for the outlets. I have four outlets, does that mean 2 outlets on each?
RBM remove this wrote:

O
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Those two circuits can be used for dining room and other kitchen wall outlets as well. The intent is to have both circuits at the counter location, so several appliances can be used at the same time. How you divide the circuits among the outlets is up to you.

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Essentially, yes.
Go to local library and borrow a copy of the NEC. Or, they may have DIY books which are very easy to understand.
In the meantime, peruse: http://www.codecheck.com/pg27_28electrical.html#rough
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

NEC required two dedicated 20A "Appliance outlets 12AWG wire not 14 It looks like your refrigerator is on a common circuit. I personally would make it's own dedicated circuit, GFCI is not required for it. What about power for your stove? Even a Gas range usually has a 120 volt circuit for lights, timers, igniter, etc. Is there a microwave or fan unit over the stove? Again I would make that an additional dedicated circuit. Is there a garbage disposal unit under the sink? High draw should also make this a separate circuit You are showing a table lamp but not a receptacle for it, just a lighting outlet which would not jive Why do you have GFCI's (3) along the wall? Not required to be GFCI. Note that convenience outlets are required max 6' apart along any wall. Also if you do want GFCI, you only need the first in the chain to be GFCI, the balance of the outlet will be protected from "load" connection on GFCI As long as you have the walls open, run new telephone, computer and CATV cables back to services Where is the switch that is controlling your entrance light It's not really clear what are "entrances to the room, it may require 3-way switches You may want to center the pantry light, it looks like it's in a corner and light will be blocked by shelving Is that a dishwasher next to the sink? Another separate circuit is recommended if so.
Oh well back to the drqawing board
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Just to clarify, "convenience outlets" are not required to be 6 feet apart along any wall. Where they are required, you cannot be more than 6 foot from an outlet along the wall, which essentially puts them every 12 foot max
wrote:

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I'm interested in what program you used to make the drawing. I want to make a plan for my own use, (not for presentation) and haven't found an easy way to do it yet.
thanks.
--
Steve Barker



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Don't sweat the details now. I started with a similar plan and brought it to city hall. This initiated the plan check phase of my project. The city employee went over the plan and told me what to change then I came back about a week later and we went over it again. On the third visit it was good enough to issue the permit.
Mostly for me, they wanted the diagram you have on the lower portion of your plan and a site plan which is a diagram of the entire lot with the kitchen shaded in and a note saying "area of remodel here". Your diagram should clearly indicate added or removed structure if any applies.
My third page was a plan before any changes were made. I did all my work in an old copy od AutoCAD but you can probably get away with any good drawing program as long as you draw all the detail they require.
I had to prepare three copies. One for me (job copy) one for the city and one for the tax collector.
Also they don't want color for the most part, change the branch lines to two different dashed line types.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Quick glance - You do know you do not need a gfci at each location, just the first outlet in the chain. Also, Refrigerator from what I remember should NOT be on GFCI.
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