Yep and the 6ft rule is way over what should be required. When I did
my 18x30 addition I figured that was enough and spaced them every 6 or
8 ft (don't recall now) with the first at each side of any door - it
Going strictly by the 6ft rule it is possible to have just one outlet
on a 12ft wall.
Yes it is. My addition is 18x30 with entrance in the middle of the
30'. Thus I could put one outlet 6' from that door and another down in
the corner...well yes, you are right, I would have 2 in 15 ft. But it
isn't hard to come up with a floor plan that would allow it, for
example just shifting my entrance over a bit.
Also, according to Knight (and the CEC) you also count the space
occupied by the door itself when fully open as part of the doorway.
So you can put an outlet 6' from the edge of the door (nearly 9' from
the doorway proper and still be code compliant.
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 01:33:46 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller)
Except that it is possible to construct an area where there
IS no wall space within several feet of the door.
Take for example, the badly designed rear entryway shown
As long as the wall segments marked with red dots
are less than 24" long, there is noplace in the
entryway where you are required to have a convenience
Not specifically, in the NEC. The only spacing requirement
is that, for any point at the base of any wall more than 23"
wide, there must be an outlet within 6' that you can get to
without crossing a doorway.
That ends UP meaning that there has to be an outlet within
6 feet of the door, unless there are other doors breaking
up the wall. You could easily, for instance, design
a mudroom/entry with three doors, a closet, and a stairway
leading off in various directions such that there's no
place you're required to have an outlet.
But you ought to have one anyway. Put it in the same box
as a light switch if you have to.
It is worth remembering that the point of these NEC requirements is to
discourage the use of extension cords.
Just a few decades ago, many extension cords were of the cheap, crummy
"zip cord" type, thin 18 g. wires, thin insulation with plastic
multi-outlet receptacles on the end. The were easily overloaded and
started many fires even though they carried the UL seal of approval.
Also... In addition to overloads, these cords were easily damaged by
kids, chewed on by pets, smashed by furniture, and tread on by being
placed under carpets.
For those of you who are old enough to notice, you can't buy these
cheap extension cords new anymore. New extension cords are all of a
miniumum thickness and conductor size. Still, it is desirable not to
have to use an extension cord, if possible, and avoid having to use
one in a permanent situation at all costs.
If you have a new home, the reason your kitchen counter is full of
electrical outlets is that the authorities absolutely don't want you
using an extension cord to plug in a deep fryer or your George Foreman
electric grill. Notice also that these days, all of these appliances
come with short cords (about 2 feet or so) which are intended to be
used with this bountiful multiplicity of kitchen outlets.
Well, the wires may be bigger, but inexpensive extension cords are
made from zip cord, which can still be pet-chewed and door-
smashed. Any flexible cord trailing across a floor or under a carpet,
whether zip cord or SO cable, is more in harm's way than permanent
would be (though you'd have to work fairly hard on the SO cable (: ) so
guess the objection still stands. Anyway a big mess of extension cords
looks like heck.
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