I was hoping somebody could help. I have installed a low voltage fixture in
my hallway and I can't seem to get it to work. The house is old, and the
wiring is always a surprise. Many light fixtures, including this one, have
voltage in the box even when the switch is turned off (learned this the hard
way with the first light I replaced in the house). Seems like the power runs
through the fixture down to the swich, instead of the reverse. I don' t know
if this would make a low voltage light not work. Maybe the transformer is
just defective. When I turn it on, I can barely hear the transformer making
a slight buzz sound, but the lights don't light up. I also thought it might
be the track, but I've inspected it and it seems okay. I've even tried
reverse wiring it, still no luck.
With the switch "on", you have to test the terminals of the track to see if
you have 120 volts. If you do, the issue is with the transformer or fixture,
if not, it would be an open circuit, possibly at the switch
Thanks! I have a voltage meter, one of the analog ones. I will have to test
it. Now a dumb question. Regular voltage in a house is AC 120 right? Does
the low voltage transformer change it to DC? And it it DC 5, 10 or 20?
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:42:55 GMT, "6zbeast via HomeKB.com"
I've heard people say 110, 115, 117, 118, 120, and 125. The actual
voltage should be in that range. I measure almost exactly 120VAC here.
Older people are more likely to say 110.
A transformer requires AC, and can change the voltage. It does not
convert it to DC. That requires additional circuitry. That is unlikely
to be there, since most lights (other than LEDs) will work with AC.
12VAC seems common, but I haven't looked at that many. The LV system I
have is 12VAC. Some may use 24VAC.
That wiring is not unusual. It is proper to do it either way.
Someone needs to measure the voltage at the transformer (voltage in and
voltage out). Remember that using a digital meter can result in measuring
AC voltages that are really not there. For this kind of work a older analog
meter is better. The voltage has to be measured at each connection until you
find one that is dead.
I would have to guess that if the transformer is buzzing, even a little,
it is getting voltage. Have you checked the bulb(s)?
I checked each of the bulbs, and they are okay. Since there are 5, and it is
new, I would expect at least one of them to work. I have an analoge voltage
meter. I'm just not sure what setting to put it on to check the track.
Joseph Meehan wrote:
What is a switched neutral? I know that in the light fixture, there is a
white and black wire. The ground wire is attached to the metal box. The
white wire is always charged, even if the switch is turned off. There is
only one switch that controls that light. I know at least two other lights
in the house have the same set up (because I dumbly turned off only the
switch when I changed the first light in the house, and got shocked. Then I
bought the voltometer, and when I changed the second light learned that it
had charge as well, as an experiment and then turned off the power at the
breaker which I always do now).
Message posted via HomeKB.com
That should not be if it were properly wired and measured. However, as
I recall a white wire may be use between the fixture and a switch, but I
believe it should be one the switched side of the switch (it should not be
hot when the switch was off) and I believe it also is suppose to be marked
at each end. I would have to look it up if I were to need to wire a switch
White is used between the power source and the switch (always hot).
Black is used from the switch, probably so you get the correct colors
at the fixture.
I'd rather have all the wires in the switch box, rather than a switch
loop. It's more versatile.
It should. I expect a lot to not be marked. I've seen a lot in this
house (built around 1969). None were marked. (They also used 10/2
Romex for the 240V circuits, and didn't mark the white as red).
I must of misread. A switched neutral would be very bad. However I
can't see where he said that. If you mean "Many light fixtures, including
this one, have voltage in the box even when the switch is turned off" that
would not mean a switched neutral, it could mean the power is supplied to
the box at the light and a separate run is made from there to the switch.
It could. Much of my house is wired that way. Romex from the breaker
panel is wired to a node near the ceiling light. Cables from the
switch and all the receptacles in that room connect to that. You see 2
junctions with a lot of wires in them. One is a bunch of white wires
(including a wire to the light). The other is a bunch of black with
one white. That white wire is the one going to the light switch.
The "hot" node is not connected directly to the light. Doing so would
bypass the switch and keep the light on all the time.
Would any of this affect whether the low voltage light I'm trying to instal
works? The old light worked just fine, and went on and off with the switch.
It had the same three wires as the new low voltage light. I have no idea why,
if the white wire is always "hot" the light did not stay on constantly.
Somehow it all worked before.
Mark Lloyd wrote:
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