Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_
the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that
much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.
But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet
On Friday, January 24, 2014 9:18:04 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
It would seem to me if you had a grease type compound that was
conductive, the smaller the distance, the worse the problem. If
I have two conductors 1/16" away from each other it's going to
be easier for the conductive stuff to connect them than if they
were 1" apart. I would think you'd only use the conductive stuff
where there is good separation and you can keep the stuff where
it needs to be. With many auto type connectors, you can't do that.
I wound up cleaing the connector with electrical contact cleaner,
then working the connector on/off a dozen times, then applying
dielectric grease. It's working fine as of now.....
On 1/24/2014 9:00 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I'd never previously actually looked at the datasheet for Stabilant--
The Stabilant isn't actually a conductive grease of which one normally
thinks; it's as Gregz says above a dilute solution in a carrier of a
polymer and it has very unusual properties in that it is only conductive
under an applied field if I read their (limited) top-level stuff correctly.
I was thinking (and writing) of an actual bulk grease that is
electrically conductive such as Conducto-Lube or the like that are full
of Ag or C or other various other conductive materials depending on the
target application and serve also as the water displacement that the Si
lubes do for plug boots, electrical connectors and the like. But, these
latter non-conductive greases don't actually help the connection, it
relies on physical contact to locally displace them for the actual
electrical contact but they remain in the overall connector to keep out
dirt, moisture, etc.
But, while Stabilant would serve well for the connection, it's price
overkill for automotive connectors so I was pretty much discounting its
actual use for your purposes, simply cautioning against slopping a bunch
of a conductive paste grease in there thinking one would want it to be
conductive but not thinking about having both polarities in the same
connector before doing same.
Perhaps that clarifies the difference some and covers both ends of the
Volkswagon dealers and NAPA used to carry Stabilant. A long time ago,
called Tweek, by audio company.
I'm not sure if i ever measured my cramolin copper loaded grease. I think
it might be best for static elimination. A long time ago something about
railroad tracks was mentioned, can't remember where or who.
"Stabilant 22 is an initially non-conductive block polymer that when
used in a thin film within contacts switches to a conductive state under
the effect of the electrical field. The field gradient at which this
occurs is set such that the material will remain non-conductive between
adjacent contacts in a multiple pin connector environment."
It is now also available diluted with alcohol.
I make no claims about effectiveness of the stuff.
On 1/24/2014 5:45 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Well, yes, as the followup says it's a very odd piece o' work and isn't
a bulk grease at all and has the unusual property that appears only
conductive w/ applied load.
As said in that follow-up that's a completely different piece o' work
than what was cautioning against...
On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:08:42 AM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Deoxit to clean it - spray on; make/break contacts a few times to clean off
. Let dry then apply dielectric grease (available in tubes at your local a
uto parts store in the same section as the RTV etc. - sometimes called "tun
eup grease" as it is often used in spark plug boots to keep them from stick
ing to the porcelain) and reconnect. Drive happy for another 10 years or s
I actually have cramolin copper grease. Other than that, grease does not
conduct and can cause problems with low pressure. I've seen silicon grease
supplied with lamp kits before. Nor a grease, tweek, or stabilant 22 is
supposed to conduct. Is a light oily substance.
I've seen a lot of problems with cheap halogen lamp connections. Crimps
often fail on those cheap units.
There is not too much stuff that actually cleans. Most of the cleaning is
by rubbing. An oil or alcohol will help move the grime around. Deoxit is
pretty good stuff to have around. So is CRC 2-26 .
Two things that can clean are acids like Tarn-X or olive oil. The oleic
acid in olive oil, or plain oleic acid eats corrosion. Needs to be flushed
I've had a brush top can of Thomas and Betts Kopr-Shield grease for
probably 30 years now and always paint a bit of it it on automotive bulb
and connector contacts when changing out things.
Works for me:
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