The problem is not the current needed to trip the 30 amp breaker. If the current is there it will trip the breaker.
The problem is the 29 amps that don't trip the 30 amp breaker. That is where the excess heat comes from to start the fire.
Dave
The problem is not the current needed to trip the 30 amp breaker. If the current is there it will trip the breaker.
The problem is the 29 amps that don't trip the 30 amp breaker. That is where the excess heat comes from to start the fire.
Dave
Most likely a count down circuit of some sort. When the first motor starts so does the timer. When the first motor is up to speed the count down reaches zero and fires the second motor start.
Dave
I agree.
dpb actually suggested a 30A breaker with appropriate #10 wire, but a
30A circuit is also a bad idea. Other than that I agree with dpb's solutions.A good solution is 2 circuits using a relay/contactor as suggested by Bob Haller and dpb. The contactor coil connects to the Woodcraft control. The contactor contacts are in the second circuit that powers the DC. You could connect a time delay relay between the Woodcraft control and the contactor so the DC would start a little later. A time delay relay and contactor could also be connected to start the DC on the same circuit after a short delay. It may be possible to add a time delay relay to the Woodcraft control.
All circuit breakers that are used in a house have a time delay trip on overload.
If motors are hardwired, a breaker may be larger than the wire size, but it has to be designed properly.
It seem the OP's switch should have had this feature to start with.
Breakers are designed with different trip curves depending on the application.
Breakers designed for resistive loads will trip sooner than one designed to handle motor inrush current. Each manufacturer typically has three or four motor curves.
Find a local electrical supply and get a breaker rated for HVAC service.
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