electric water heater- update

[Scott McDaniel]

Normally there's only one "switch" that controls both elements and has overtemp on it. I'd replace that before I replaced the heater, assuming the heater is otherwise in good shape.

[webmaster]

Switch it anywhere between $6 and $20 depending on where you buy it...

Not being an ass, but instead of changing parts, why not find out what is wrong with it...

[longshot]

I changed out the upper heating element & it is still not heating up, I think maybe the switch got fried when it leaked.. it soaked the insulation between the tank & jacket. is it time to just replace the whole thing?

Rob

[longshot]

there's nothing else that can go wrong is there? how much do you think the switch costs? a new WH is only little over $200.00. I was wondering if the lower element was fried, if that would cause a break in the current & not heat the water, I haven't drained it all the way to check it.

[longshot]

yes, i would like to. it blew a leak, I changed the fried element, still no hot water. what's wrong with it?

[Olaf]

The elements are not arranged in series, electrically. One element going bad will not stop the other one from functioning. When the thermostat detects cooler water on the bottom of the tank, it turns on the bottom element. When the thermostat detects cooler water at the top of the tank, it switches the bottom element off and turns on the top element until the top of the tank is hot again. Then it turns the top element off and the bottom element back on until the water throughout the tank is heated.

Since you have replaced the top element and you are still getting no hot water, then it is very likely not the elements that are the problem. Even if somehow both elements blew at the same time (causing your initial 'no hot water' problem) you'd still be getting a small amount of hot water now that the top element has been replaced.

Your problem lies elsewhere.... in something that controls both elements.

[webmaster]

Well Since no one but you can see it, and you want it fixed, not to keep throwing money at it...

First...is the BREAKER ON? If it is, DO YOU HAVE POWER at the terminal block on the hot water heater? If you DO, do you have power going to either element ? If not, has your red reset button tripped? If so...press it and see if it resets and if so, if you have power going to one of the two elements. If you do, and I dont mean 110VAC, but 220VAC then if you dont get hot water in a few minutes, turn the power off and check the elements. One element being burned out will not prevent the tank from heating the water normally...but a bad reset will provided that everything else is normal.

No offense...but if you cant diagnose it, call someone that can. Normally its cheaper than replacement.

[longshot]

none taken, I finally did what i should have done first, put a voltage meter on it, I was not getting any power, I had a stubborn breaker switch that I had to "reset" several times before it snapped back into operating position. Thanks for all the responses. Rob

[webmaster]

Thats not stubborn, that is defective.

Replace it now. That can be, a VERY dangerous situation. Breakers should not ever act like you just posted.

>

[longshot]

sounds like good advice. Thanks, I will do that.