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Sure, except I'd rather spend $100 than $700 (which is the going price for a gas heater around here - I would need a "short" tank which seems to be even more expensive) plus installation.
Again, "sometimes ya get lucky." I'm not saying that this can't happen, but if I can put off a $1K plus expense for a couple years for $100, I'll do it again.
nate
I removed the bottom element on mine and with a small light to look inside I could see there was considerable amount of crud. I had a small wet/dry vac with about a 1 1/5 inch vac hose and sucked the crud out. After I got the majority of the crud with the vacuum, the rest flushed easily out with water. Steve
recall
That is.... about a 1 1/5 inch diameter vacuum hose. It was long enough to be able to get around the inside bottom of the tank.
The old element was bad so I just replaced with a new element and it was good for a long time.
Steve
These things are truly shamefully cheap and useless. The smallest bit of sediment / debris will clog it, and it's the debris you need to get rid of.
Install a short nipple (die-electric)
I'm wondering why you recommend a dielectric at this point. Must be a good reason, but there's no downstream connection to anything, so what purpose would the thermoplastic lining serve? What complications would a regular galvanized nipple introduce? (For example, the one I installed in mine about three years ago?) in
How do lower pressures use less water? Im going to guess you are trolling because that is very elementary. If you still cant figure it out I suggest you google it. Bubba
No, actually you may be right. Being the drain is not permanently connected to anything outside of it, it may not be necessary. Water heaters just seem to be real suseptable to minerals and deposits clogging the fittings. Ive replaced water heaters that had the dielectric nipples in both the hot and cold and also have the reverse flow plastic check valves in them. All done correctly yet when I pull them loose for replacement they look completly clogged. Its what they recommend but I dont really see any difference when no die-electric fittings are used on the hot and cold line. I guess its just a preference. Bubba
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if your skillful enough to replace anode, dip tube, and drain valve replacing the tank should be easy.
home depot sells 40 gallon short tans for $362 bucks
new tanks are much more energy efficent so you might not be saving as much as you think
te:
'dck the
do tell more, how much water you use depends on how much you need.
it might shorten fill time of a dishwasher, etc but your bathtub still holds only so much, as do most appliances in your home.
harder flow at a sink may result in less water use, since the force may clean better
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sorrty forgot link:(
Think water fountain.
I don't do mine often enough and there is so much crud in the bottom that it just clogs the drain valve. I've had to take the lower element out (turn the power off first) and use that as an access hole to poke a stick in and bust up the crud. I've had crud so high it cut off most of the water around the lower element causing it to burn up - which is what first got me going on cleaning out the crud. I think since I turned the temp down I've had a lot less build up.
Why would I want a curved dip tube? To be able to get it into the tank with a low clearance?
The curve exists at the bottom of the tube to create a whirlpool effect when the water enters the tank. The theory is that the movement of water will stir up any crud, leep it suspended in the water and eventually get drawn out of the tank.
I've never seen any controlled evidence that this does any good or even works, but it doesn't do any harm and it makes for nice marketing.
I'm guessing a shower is where the higher pressure would really show up. However I find that a shower feels best to me with a "low flow" shower head but higher pressure than it does with a regular head and low pressure (as in a motel)
nate
That's something unique to that web site, and their theory is that the curved tube allows you to flush more completely. I wouldn't worry about that part of your existing heater unless you determine that a) it's worth reworking as the tank is still sound and b) you have an unusual amount of sediment build up.
I've never seen them anywhere else but that web site; I'm guessing that they've found a type of commercially available dip tube that made of a type of plastic that can be bent when heated and will re-set when cooled, and they just bend 'em themselves.
nate
I'm not Bubba but I recommended the same thing. My theory, which is completely half baked and unproven, is that a dielectric nipple is plastic lined while a galvanized nipple is, well, galvanized - and therefore the dielectric won't rust/constrict at all during the service life of the assembly. Plus they're about the same price as galv or brass and are hanging there in the little blister packs right next to the hookup lines etc. so why not. That, and it just grates on me to have dissimilar metals connected directly to each other (steel to brass in this case) although I see in Bubba's reply he correctly points out that the brass valve doesn't provide a conductive path to anything (unless your basement floods, then you've got bigger problems )
nate
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I think they mark 'em up around here (metro DC area;) I've looked out of curiosity and they are significantly more expensive than that unless prices have dropped recently. I am actually a few minutes away from running over there to pick up a replacement cord for my right angle drill, so I'll have a chance to check.
Plus I think I would have it professionally installed because I'd want the guy to replace all my gas valves in the area (furnace, dryer, and WH) at the same time because none of them will operate without channellocks. If I did it myself then I'd have to run the old one to the dump, too... not a royal PITA but more time and money.
I likely would shop for the highest efficiency and a non-combo style anode rather than price anyway...
nate
it feels best to me with high pressure AND a regular head. If i want lo-flo, i'll turn it down. thank you very much. piss on a bunch of lo-flow shit devices.
s
bad analogy. the water fountains that have a pissy flow, you just have to stand there and drink longer. no water savings. actually probably more waste 'cause 100% of the flow does not go in your mouth. So the longer it takes, the more down the drain.
sAND a lot less hot water.......
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