Electric Drills

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We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks.
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You're way better off using a hammer drill and of course a masonry bit
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On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:59:46 -0800, Dottie wrote:

Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. If you buy another cordless buy an 18 volt with lithium ion battery.
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Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck..
Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ?
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How old is the concrete? Is it possible there's a much newer layer over an older one?
-- Bobby G.
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No "layers" Its 5 yrs old, poured all at once, about 4-5" thick
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Well, *something's* different about the layers. Are you using the throwaway bits that often accompany the package of Tapcons? I know people who say the Tapcon bits are junk compared to the much more expensive Bosch bits. What diameter are you using? Do you have any different sized bits? Have you considered using the .22 powered ramset fasteners? Since you know something about the initial pour, do you know the composition of the mix? Have you tried irrigating the troublesome holes with water to cool the bit and clear away the dust?
My best advice would be to get a different bit and use the slowest speed possible while keeping a stream of water, even if only from a squirt bottle, on the drill bit.
HTH
-- Bobby G.

my
to
then
and
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2010 08:54:43 -0500, "Robert Green"

All good ideas. I had a similar bad experience with TAPCON bits on my poured foundation wall. Thinks that's when I bought my hammer drill. Some concrete is *really* hard to get through. I decided then that if I did it often I'd buy a ramset, although those aren't foolproof either for stuff that shatters. My foundation wall is so hard I expect a ramset would have cratered it. I've decided not to hang anything else on it. For the sole plate the OP is doing I recommend just getting a couple good holes drilled per 8 foot plate and gluing it down. If there's wrestling matches going on down there the wrestlers will go through the wall before they knock the sole plate loose.
--Vic
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The thing is, I CAN drill a 1.5" deep hole in several places beneath the sole plate area, but a foot over "that way" or "this way", no luck..3 tries get me three holes only 1/2" deep..then a foot over there, back down to 1.5" again with the SAME TAPCON supplied bit.

> I know people who say the Tapcon bits are junk compared to the much more expensive Bosch bits.
THEN I tried a BOSCH bit..same dia..same thing..Cant drill in the 1/2" deep holes either.

the size specified for those particular TAPCONS

2500 -3000 lb standard FLOOR concrete

I blow the dust out..havent tried water but what I'm concerned with is WHY I can drill 6 holes fine and CAN'T drive 6 others in the same area.
As I said, I must be hitting aggregate/stone or rebar ^@!#@#!#@1!
Its "borrow the RAMSET gun" next I guess
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Rebar will usually trash the bit. Is this a hammer drill or a regular drill
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.

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I used to be a steel erection contractor, installing and fixing lots of gates and fences. With a 1/4" or larger hole, you can put a star bit in there, and whack it a few times, and it will either break the rock, or the ding will tell you if it is steel.
Not so with the smaller TapCon holes. For that, I used the small cold rolled steel rod that comes in a Bommer spring for tensioning that spring. About three inches long. They won't bend, but will snap. Grind it down to a point, and use it to break up the rock that won't let you pass. As I said, you will get a definite ping if you have hit rebar. Not sure where you can get these pins without buying a whole Bommer spring assembly, but surely, there is something you have that is small enough and tough enough so you can make an icepick probe. Don't drive it in there, because you want to get it back out. Use a pair of visegrip pliers to extract.
Yer welcome.
Steve
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On 11/21/2010 2:52 PM, Rudy wrote:

Stick a cut nail or other hardened nail in the hole and see what happens. Like Steve B said, hitting rebar you will hear a ping, that's a bitch because the concrete around it will dull a metal steel bit. If it's a stone, there is a chance the cut nail will go in and hold. Hit it with a 2 or 3 pound hammer. (wear safety goggles, those suckers can fly) My last house with a poured foundation had stone in it that was hard as all hell. It's not always easy but you can get a cut nail in there if it isn't hitting rebar.
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Get a long concrete nail, too. Easy to find.
Steve
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Drill the hole deeper than the screw and blow out the dust with canned air or your compressor if you have one. A screw gun works better than manually running them in. Once they stop, it is hard to get them going again.
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On Nov 19, 11:54am, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I bought a Craftsman electric drill today and went to Lowe's (next door) for the drill bit. The star drill bit was very small and fragile -- and I couldn't see using it for what I wanted. I bought a masonry drill bit. I was able to drill the hole I needed and to enlarge the old hole where the old hose hangar had been. So it's up there. Of course the drill came without any drill bits -- I was going to use the ones left over from the old drill that we used to have but I decided it will be a whole lot easier to just go back and buy a small pouch full of drill bits and start over. I cannot tell exactly what size the old ones are.
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On 11/19/2010 3:46 PM Dottie spake thus:

Tip: Don't just throw drill bits in a pouch and then have to hunt for the right size later: treat yourself to a proper drill index, a case for bits that holds them and identifies them so it's easy to pull the one you want. Not expensive (I prefer the metal ones, but they're getting hard to find--everything's cheap plastic these days).
--
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Glad to hear that things worked out for you. This is a good group to read, you can learn a lot just lurking.
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I'd love to do that except as my Q above states..The drilling STOPS about 1/2" down.. THATS the problem
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On 11/18/2010 11:10 PM, Rudy wrote:

I saw the title of your post and all sorts of bizarre things went through my warped mind before I looked more closely. I will never learn to stop reading with my peripheral vision. 8-)
TDD
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