Electric Doorknob Installation

I'd like to install an electric doorknob. Is this a difficult job?
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It's no harder than installing any other door knob. I installed electronics locks on both my front door and back door. I have a keypad for my garage door. One code and you can get in any door. I never carry a house key.
The level of difficulty will depend on what you already have. If all of the holes you need are already in the door, then it's just a bunch of screws. If you have to drill the door or jamb, then it all depends on your level of handiness. The locks will come with instructions and templates for drilling. Look up the instruction manual on line to help you decide if you can handle the job.
Most lock sets will have an adjustable latch/deadbolt assembly so you can match your current setback, so that shouldn't be an issue - unless you have a nonstandard setback.
The one caution I will offer is that you need to be very accurate with the placement of your strike plates. While the human hand is very capable of forcing the deadbolt past a strike plate that is slightly out of alignment, the electronic lock doesn't have that strength and will balk when it encounters resistance. The make of lock that you use will also matter in that regard. My Kwikset is lot stronger than my less expensive Gatehouse lock and has shown that it can push past more resistance, like when moisture moves things a bit. You can hear it in the motor.
The other thing I like better about the Kwikset over the Gatehouse is that the Kwikset knows when it is locked vs. unlocked. The Gatehouse tries to do whatever you tell it to do and you can hear the "confusion" in the motor. It also messes something up inside the unit and makes it harder to use until you "reset" it by locking it with the interior knob and then unlocking it with the keypad so it knows which state it is in.
I suggest you avoid the less expensive Gatehouse models.
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On 2/22/2014 7:19 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I do carry a key. It is in my bill fold someplace. I haven't ever used it, but in the unlikely case that the batteries go dead all the doors at the same time I will be able to get in. Just one more case of belt and suspenders.
I also have a problem with the door into the garage not always hitting just right. It has to be firmly closed before it will lock. That is mostly because the foundation has shifted because of the drought and keeps it from closing properly. Last August when we got some good rain it started working much better. Then it dried up again and now it is dragging a little.
Bill
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I have a GDO. I'd have to lose power and 2 sets of batteries all at the same time for there to be an issue with getting in.
You will also note that I said that I never _carry_ a house key. I didn't say that there wasn't one hidden on my property.
I'm really not concerned about being locked out.
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On 2/22/2014 9:44 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Better locks have terminals for jumper cables. You just pull the car close to the door and hook up the cables and unlock.
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On 2/22/2014 11:04 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

What size cables do you need for that? The ones I keep in the car are #6, that is good enough to jump most cars. Do you need heavier ones for a lock?
Bill
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I don't need no stinkin' cables.
I don't pull the car close to the door, I drive the car _through_ the door.
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On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 13:19:26 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

Are these powered by batteries?
I was looking for something that would lock and unlock using a fob on my key ring, like a car alarm. Do they sell those? (I have no desire to lock the door via a cell phone.)
Thanks.

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On Saturday, February 22, 2014 12:34:08 AM UTC-6, snipped-for-privacy@lake.com wrote:

Very interesting and useful response to the OP!
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On Saturday, February 22, 2014 12:34:08 AM UTC-6, snipped-for-privacy@lake.com wrote:

DD/3 means "backset"! (and yes they are battery operated)
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Must be my aixelsyD acting up.
BTW...There are AC powered door strikes that can be remote controlled. It's low voltage, but it is AC.
e.g.
http://www.smarthome.com/5190S/Lee-Electric-5-S-Electric-Door-Strike-for-Schlage-Locks/p.aspx
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On Saturday, February 22, 2014 9:34:20 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Now were comparing "apples to oranges"...he asked about an electronic lock not a backset! *L*
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On 2/22/2014 10:44 AM, Bob_Villa wrote:

asked about an electronic lock not a backset! *L*

Most electronic locks have a backset.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Saturday, February 22, 2014 10:11:01 AM UTC-6, Stormin Mormon wrote:

brilliant!
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On 2/22/2014 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I've seen electric release strikes in 12 or 24 volts, AC or DC. Some are either AC or DC.
There's fail safe, and fail secure....
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Christopher A. Young
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On 2/22/2014 10:14 AM, Bob_Villa wrote:

As a locksmith of 25+ years, backset is the distance between the edge of the door to the center of the lock hole. Typically 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 inches.
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Christopher A. Young
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electric door lock was the best 100 bucks I ever spent. batteries last a year or two, you can tell when they are getting low by the sound the lock makes
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