Electric chainsaws

[Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney]

I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?

Remington RM1840W

18" 12-Amp corded electric Reviews say available at these stores, but they are no longer available at them: Sears $101 Walmart $89 Home Depot $89

Greenworks GW20332

18-in 14.2A corded electric Available online order only: HomeDepot $89

[trader_4]

ded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I d on't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of t hese or know another one in the $120 or less range?

I bought a Poulan, think it's 16" after Hurricane Sandy. I have an old Stihl gas, but it's always been a pain in the ass to start, gets fouled when it's not used regularly, etc. If you use it frequently, it was great. So I bought the electric and I'm very happy with it. I cut up several trees, some some larger diameter than the saw. If I had a lot of cutting to do, mostly big stuff, etc, I still prefer gas, it has more power. But for the convenience where you have power, can't beat that Poulan. I think I paid about $75 for it online.

[Bill]

I've got a Remington 1635W, apparently in the same category. I am impressed with how much work I have gotten out of it so far. I used it to cut up almost half of a pretty big tree that fell in our yard (not exceeding the smaller (20") cross-sections of course), and it didn't die. Of course, if I had to do it over, I might have rented a gas chain saw and a shreader. There are some plastic parts that wear, but for the price I think I'll replace it rather than maintain it. If all you have is light work, I think this is a great tool for it. No maintenance...

[Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney]

several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?

Thanks, Bill. Good to hear. The only 18-in corded in town here is the Craftsman, so I picked one up today. HD, Lowed, Walmart all advertise one but after visiting all three, they are internet order only. I need to see tools like this, so ended up at Sears. Only thing I don't like about Sears is that I had to wait until 11am today (Sunday) for them to open. Will post how it works out.

[Don Wiss]

After the little tornado went overhead, I bought a Homelite 14" chain saw at Home Depot for $50. I used it a lot then to make firewood. It got a lot more use after Superstorm Sandy. And again recently when they pruned the trees on the next block before some road work. The guys left me many logs to cut up. (I also have an axe for splitting.)

It has never failed me. I have not sharpened it. I always made sure there was bar chain oil in it.

I see Home Depot has a newer model, for the same $50 price.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[Bill]

My Remington chain saw directions said not to use chain saw oil, but to use motor oil. I think I use 5w30, since it's handy. Not sure of the difference in viscosity compared to bar chain oil.

[Art Todesco]

Ditto, ditto. I have an electric, although the chain bar is a bit shorter, that also has a telescoping stick. You can use it to cut high branches with climbing. I've use a Stihl gas unit with a shorter stick, however, with the engine at the bottom, it was hard to push your way through a thick branch. The electric one has the motor on top. I though this would be a disadvantage, but the weight on the top helps to push through thicker branches. Plus, you can remove the chain saw and use it without the stick.

[Arthur Conan Doyle]

Bar oil is pretty thick - it thins out as the heat of the enginer warms it up. Bit like boiler fuel. Since electric chain saws don't generate combustion heat, I imagine that's why they recommend motor oil.

[Percival P. Cassidy]

The manual for the Remington RM1415 says to use Bar and Chain Oil.

Perce

[Bill]

Makes sense. Thanks! -- Bill

[hrhofmann]

Nobody has mentioned how important it is to keep the chain sharp so that the cutting does not require forcing the saw into the work, instead of letting the saw cut its own way.

[Mr. Man-wai Chang]

Good reminder! Same issues can happen to kitchen knifes!

[Terry Coombs]

Watch the chips . Large chips are a good indicater that the chain is sharp , fine dusty chips mean it's past time to sharpen . A chain that tends to curve as you cut means the sharpening is unbalanced - I usually touch up a couple of times freehand , then give the chain a good sharpening with a file guide to be certain the teeth are at the proper angle and not sharpened "curved" .

[DerbyDad03]

...snip...

...snip...

Sometimes you want the chainsaw to cut a curve.

Before:

After:

[Terry Coombs]

I don't see any reason that particular cut needed to be curved ... and as thin as the section is a curved cut would be easy .

[Don Wiss]

On Wed, 7 Sep 2016, DerbyDad03 posted:

Looks like the woman standing to the side got locked out of her flat, and she asked the police to help her get inside.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[DerbyDad03]

Just checking: Did you think I was serious?

[DerbyDad03]

Yeah...in a related article she mentioned that she had just bought new locks and had requested that the police not damage them. It appears that Officer Friendly honored that request.

(I'm going with a "landlord/eviction" scenario.)

[DerbyDad03]

"Hey mate, did you bring any duct tape?"

[Taxed and Spent]

I am going with a training session. There's an open window.