I used to use the nibbler tool all the time when I did electronics work. I
made a lot of little gadgets when I was younger. These days the nibbler
just sits in my tool chest, out of sight, out of mind. It was nice to be
able to make use of it again.
2) Now, you have a hot ceiling, and cold floor.
You need either a ceiling fan, or infrared heaters,
to warm the floor. Maybe Wirsbo in floor heat.
That's an impressive web page for a 3/4 inch knock
The dangling cord would have bugged me even if it was painted white. I'm
funny like that.
Unless I'm working under the car, I'm usually not laying down on the floor.
So that's not really an issue. Besides, the fan in the heater does a good
job of circulating the warm air in the room. As long as it's comfortable to
do a little woodworking or a project at the workbench, I'm happy.
I thought about installing heating tubes in the slab when we built the
garage. But, I couldn't justify the extra expense since I only work in the
garage occasionally. Radiant floor heat would have been slow to respond,
and I'm usually only in the garage a few hours at a time. It's easy to go
in and flip on the electric heater while I'm working, then turn it off when
I couldn't find much information on installing the FUH54 heater when I
ordered it. The owners manual that comes with the heater is also rather
limited. So I thought I would document my installation in hopes it would
help someone else in the same situation. The 3/4 inch knockout situation
was just an unexpected side project that worked into the story. :)
It took less than an hour to put the page together, so why not...
Personally, I would have used a length of 1/2" flex conduit with #12 THHN rather than
using a "dryer cord" for this particular installation. No need to enlarge the knockout,
and the wiring is somewhat protected. A flat metal cover plate with a knockout would
hold the flex connector on the outlet box side.
The heater draws about 22 amps, so I needed four #10 wires to accomodate
the external switch.
I originally planned to direct wire with flexible conduit, but changed my
mind at the store. I didn't want to buy four rolls of different colored
THHN wire, and if you've ever tried to have wire specialty cut at the box
store, you know what a hassle that is. I couldn't find the conduit
connectors, they didn't have the cover plate with knockout in stock, and it
was becoming more trouble than it was worth.
Grab a dryer cord, receptacle, and cover plate. Done. :)
I'm glad I went with the second approach as I've already taken the heater
maintenance. A lot of the installations of equipment I've seen over the
years have been thrown in as quickly as possible and as cheaply as
possible. It adds to the cost of maintenance for a customer because of
the time it takes to remove and replace it. ^_^
Ah, I thought I had read that it was 2.2kw. At 220, that's about 10 amps,
which is why I suggested #12AWG.
As I usually have several spools of 12AWG THHN available, that hasn't
been a problem for me (and my local hardware store, OSH, is pretty good
about cutting custom lengths when I do need something I don't have). I
tend to avoid the orange and blue stores, but I understand that isn't an option for
I put mine up (3.5kw) a dozen years ago in the garage (a dayton unit) and
have never needed to take it down. Then again, it's wired with EMT and
hung from unistrut, so it's not particularly _easy_ to take down either.
For mine, I put both a DPST and Thermostat in circuit so I'd never need
to go near the heater and could completely disable it during the 10
months when it is never needed.
store. The first one lasted until the mid 1980's when I broke it while
installing a set of automatic doors in a grocery store. The originals
manufactured by The Unibit Corporation seemed to best and longest
I used a standard knockout seal like these:
You can also see the back side of the seal on the right side of the picture
in the "Rewiring the new cord" section of my web page:
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