Dumb question - bead board over plywood?

I would like to cover the ceiling a porch with something. What is there now are 2X4 appearance "beams" spaced 16 inches apart. I like the look of bead board, but am thinking that the 1/4" thickness isn't substantial enough. It may end up sagging.
So what I thought I might do is cover the area with plywood first, then attach the bead board to the plywood. Or, attach (glue?) the bead board to the plywood first then install over the ceiling.
Good idea, bad idea?
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I don't think 1/4" plywood will sag with 16" supports, but I've been wrong before.

If you want extra support, your choices are sheet goods and blocking. Blocking will be cheaper, but more labor.

The construction adhesive is unneeded, but won't hurt. Don't use _only_ adhesive. You need nails.

My suggestion: Paint both sides of the 1/4" plywood, then nail it to the joists. Fill the joints and nails, then touch up the paint.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
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On Jun 9, 8:40 am, snipped-for-privacy@ymail.com wrote:

I'm assuming that these 2X4 appearance "beams" are attached firmly enough to support the weight of the bead board. The word "appearance" could imply they are there for show and not really meant to support anything, either from above or below.
If I were concerned about sagging, and had the time for the extra labor involved, I'd install blocking between the "joists" as opposed to the expense of plywood.
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On Jun 9, 7:40 am, snipped-for-privacy@ymail.com wrote:

By the time you do a plywood backer and a beadboard sheet... your expense and time will be more than just getting tongue and groove cedar or pine. T&G doesn't sag and doesn't require a plywood backer and you can stain it whatever color. Also the typical beadboard sheet is just masonite, it will be wavy and it probably wont weather nearly as well as T&G, and with sheet masonite you'll have to deal with hiding ugly seems, more time.
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RickH wrote:

cutting and fitting big sheets and getting them to lay smooth overhead. They sell bead-edge car siding that would be perfect, and is what the plywood sheets are trying to imitate. Big box likely won't have it unless it is locally popular, but any real lumberyard should be able to get it. Assume the wall is crooked for the first row of boards, and scribe as needed. A chalkline will help. Once you have one straight row, it goes up pretty fast. An air nailer or screwgun is close to essential- nailing overhead is a killer even for young strong people who do it every day.
And yes, 1/4" ply will sag if it gets damp and is subject to temp swings. I ended up having to apply a grid of surface trim to disguise a sagging carport ceiling skinned with the stuff. Looks okay, but should used 3/8 to start with.
-- aem sends...
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Another tip, if you lay it at 45 degrees you dont even have to care if the room is square or if you get the first row straight.
A cheap 1.25 inch brad nailer and a small compressor is probably good enough.
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How about 1/4" T1-11 siding
http://www.lancasterbarns.com/acatalog/t1-11-garage-section.jpg and
http://www.joneslumber.com/plywood.shtml#structural
T1-11 Siding Prem. 6-Patch 8"oc SYP (4x8) T1-11 Siding Prem. 6-Patch 4"oc SYP (4x8) T1-11 Siding Prem. 6-Patch Plain SYP (4x8) T1-11 Siding CLR WPF 8"oc (4x8) T1-11 Siding CLR WPF 4"oc (4x8) T1-11 Siding CLR WPF Plain (4x8)
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On Jun 9, 7:40 am, snipped-for-privacy@ymail.com wrote:

If you use T&G be sure to randomize each row so the butt seems never line up.
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