This is not a bad suggestion.
Our first refrigerator had a trouble-prone automatic ice-maker. When we
replaced it, we bought a new side-by-side but never installed the ice-maker.
Since we don't use a LOT of ice, it wasn't a big deal.
We gave the side-by-side to our daughter and SIL when they bought their first
house and bought a new refrigerator - with an automatic ice-maker.
It has NOT been trouble-free.
It's a trade-off, really. I enjoy the automatic ice but am
less-than-satisfied with the device's reliability.
mine got cranky after about 6 years, flake ot occasionally.
was unsure of trouble suspected solenoid valve but found icemaker kit
was cheaper than works and solenoid.
bought the kit installed the solenoid its worked great since, put the
works in the attic foir later use if needed
copper kinks to easy and adds difficulty moving fridge to clean.
my plastic line goes thru a plastic fitting in floor which allows the
extra line to be in basement area when not needed for moving fridge
out. plastic may kink but remove kink it works fine again, copper will
I use braided stainless steel lines for the ice maker, dishwasher
and clothes washer (and toilets, and sinks, and...). The braided
stainless steel is the best of both worlds. It's quite flexible
and won't fail catastrophically. The icemaker and dishwasher lines
are pulled back downstairs and tied up with tie wraps.
True enough. It's a matter of convenience vs. safety. Assuming
the chances of a failure are linear with time, it makes sense to
shut things off for long periods (little inconvenience, more risk)
than for short periods (much trouble, less risk).
Then there is the wear issue on shutoffs. Most aren't made to be
used every day, particularly gate valves (YOY do they use gate
valves for the main supply?).
I get mixed up which are gate valves and which are the other? The
valves beind my clothes washer for instance have to be turned more
than one revolution to go from wide open to fully closed.
And yet I'm told the instructions for all washers say to turn the
water off after each use, and some people do laundry every 2nd day, or
even daily if they have diapers to be washed.
This does't solve the problem that plastic starts to leak on its own.
Both my humidifier and a friend's ice maker. Mine was definitely not
kinked, not bent more than it was when it came with the humidifier,
and not abrading against anything. The hole was 5 inches from
anything. (I didnt' see the details of my friend's ice maker, but
it's fortunate she was having a party in her basement when it started
to leak. Sometimes she didn't go down to the basement from Sunday
night to the next Saturday.
My hubby and I hooked up the plumbing on our first ice maker. Saddle
valve, extra length of copper tubing to coil behind the fridge and allow
it to be pulled out without damaging it. It was our first plumbing job.
Nothing to it. That particlar kitchen was on a slab and a door
between the fridge and water supply. We laid the tubing against the
threshold across doorway. With all the traffic through that door, we
never had a problem with it.
Our most recent ice maker was hooked up by plumber. He advised hooking
it to the hot water line; said it makes for less cloudy ice. Works
fine. Same extra length of tubing, in a large coil, to allow room to
pull out the fridge without kinking tubing. This one has tubing passed
through side of kitchen cabine with small hole drilled for it. Water
heater is underneath a corner cabinet (condo) and wh accessed from
utility closet outside our unit.
Saddle valves suck. WHen I added shut-offs for all the wet rooms I
replaced the freezer saddle valve with a ball valve and appropriate
reducers. It was a piece of cake.
Our fridge has a water filter built in so the ice isn't all that
cloudy, not that I care much about cloudy ice (we usually crunch it
up ;) AFAIC, hot water for an ice maker is wasted energy. The hot
water will never make it to the ice maker anyway.
Thanks for all the responses folks. Definitely a lot to read through
and consider. To address a couple issues that were raised, I guess
the line from the nearest water supply would need to run a few feet
down into the crawlspace, about 12 feet under the kitchen, and a
couple feet back up to behind the fridge. My main concern is the
potential for freezing of pipes/tubes running through the crawlspace.
We're in the Washington DC area and it does get mighty freezy down
there sometimes. That said we do have the hot water supply and
exhaust from the dishwasher running through there.
There are doors on either side of the room between the sink and
fridge, which pretty much precludes staying inside the room. It would
be easy enough to work in the crawlspace, but if the line were ever to
freeze and crack, it could be a long time before I became aware that I
was leaking water into the crawlspace.
Actually if you had a leak, the resultant pressure drop would preclude
you from having any new ice, so you would know sooner than you think.
Wrap the pipe in some insulation, and don't worry. If your water pipes
under the house are not insulated and don't freeze, then you're not
likely to have a problem with a new pipe.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.