Dual sump pumps

As a matter of principal I will never buy a house that depends on a sump pump to keep the basement dry.

The house I grew up in was at the low point of the street (the street was about 8 inches lower than the next catch basin in front of our house), and the main floor was about a foot or so lower than the street, with the lot sloping back to a bank (drop-off) to the riover flats. In a heavy rain, the street would fill with water, and trucks going by (or even cars) would cause a wake that splashed water over to the house. The water would run in the front door, across the linoleum living room floor, down the basement stairs, and out the cellar drain to the river flats. Dad pured a retaining wall along the front of the house, against the foundation and extending up a foot or so above foundation level, and poured a concrete front poach about 8 inches higher than the living room floor, so you had to step down going in - with a raised threshold lip. A brick "railing" around the porch acted as a breakwater, and we had a drop-in "floodgate" that blocked the entrance in rainy weather. Those modifications kept the water out of the house on all but the very worst rainstorms.

Dad bought that house for $2000 in 1957. It was built before confederation (I think it was 87 years old when he bought it). He sold it in 1975 and it was demolished and replaced by several townhouses just last year.

Both my first house and this one are at the high point of the street, in sand, on an open gravel bottom with no sump.

Reply to
clare
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Reply to
hrhofmann

Thank you for your post. If you know any builders in suburbs bordering major cities, building departments are mandating that NEWLY BUILT homes have their storm water drain onto their property vs going into storm sewers. Many municipalities don't want any more water running into storm sewers; they feel sewers are already maxed out, resulting in storm water co-mingling with waste water.

The mandate for builders: Grade the lawn so that water runs across it and eventually (hopefully) seeps down in --- never reaching a storm sewer.

Reply to
Arnold2303

discharge into a comon pipe. Just set the float switch on the backup pump to go on at a higher water level. This isn't rocket science, just basic plumbing and electricity.

backup if the electricity and the back-up electricity both fail. Each comes on at a successively higher water level.

Thanks! Sounds like a good solid plan.

Reply to
Arnold2303

discharge into a comon pipe. Just set the float switch on the backup pump to go on at a higher water level. This isn't rocket science, just basic plumbing and electricity.

backup if the electricity and the back-up electricity both fail. Each comes on at a successively higher water level.

QUESTION: Who did your installation? A plumber or a basement waterproofing company or did you do it yourself? Just curious.

Reply to
Arnold2303

To Arnold,

I did my own installations of all 3 pumps. I was replacing a single pump t hat the builder put into the house when he built it in 1957. We bought the house in 1965 and I put the second pump in a few years later. The third w ater-powered pump I put in about 5 years ago so that I didn't have to worrr y about power failures when we were out of town on vacations, since I didn' t want to have my neighbors worrying about my flooded basement when they wo uld be having problems themselves. I figured it was cheap insurance. If o ur local water pressure ever goes down, we are in much bigger trouble than just my basaement flooding.

Reply to
hrhofmann

Thank you.

What horsepower did you go with? Also, is there any particular brand that you can speak highly of? I hear good things about Zoeller.

I appreciate your patience. This is all foreign to me. I'm not handy at all. I just know I have to do something before this sump (which has been working overtime) burns itself out and we have a wet basement on our hands.

Reply to
Arnold2303

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