Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby drywall now has a 'puffy' look. I guess the paper coating has expanded or sumthin'. Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? What would you suggest? Thanks.
Not much can be done (satisfactorily at least) w/ drywall that has been wet other than replace it.
Yes, you can lightly sand it and paint over it. If that is what you want to do rather than repairing it properly and can live with the results.
Depends on if you're married...
On 3/10/2009 4:07 PM dpb spake thus:
I second that emotion.
Replacement isn't too terribly traumatic, depending, of course, on your skill level and sense of adventure. Just a few tools (measuring tape, straightedge, utility knife, hammer or screwdriving drill, drywall finishing tools), some "mud" and you're good to go.
Well, depends on how wet for how long.
If the drywall is breaking up, replacement is the only sensible option.
But if the water damage is minor/cosmetic, a simpler fix might be very viable. Sand and then seal the area with an oil based primer (Kilz or similar). Then paint.
It's worked perfectly for me a couple of times. Those repairs are completely invisible and they were made several years ago.
If it is spongey to the touch and the paper has seperated from the drywall , getting it "wet" again by painting it will make the paper bubble up and the drywall possibly crumble...Without photos only you know how bad it is...Good luck...
wrote
How bad is it? If really bad, will have to be replaced but that's not as hard as it sounds.
If just a bit bubbled (can barely feel it) let it completely dry then consider possibly putting a 'bathroom type' (vinyl sort of) wall paper over it after sanding smooth *lightly* through any bubbled paint. It will have to be very minimal damage or the wallpaper will bubble and not adhere, or you'll see imperfections through the paper.
Don't use the standard 'paper' but stuff meant for bathrooms. it's a bit thicker and can handle a reasonable dampness load. Also it's washable.
If there is no tile on it then ripping out a patch of drywall to the studs and replacing it is just as easy as sanding it IMHO. Cut the bad drywall out to the nearest stud centers, screw on a patch, mud/ tape it, sand, paint. Mold is a living organism and will only multiply over time.
Cement board is what you want in wet areas. The greenboard was used there for a while, but it doesn't work much better than plain wallboard. Use the greenboard in the _rest_ of the bathroom to fight steamy air, and use cement board in the shower and around the tub.
With cement board, you tape the seams with mortar and fiberglass tape.
I recommend you put a waterproof membrane behind the cement board.
I think he was talking about wallPAPER.
In which case, you want to use SOLID VINYL wall covering. (or mylar foil)
On 3/10/2009 11:49 PM cshenk spake thus:
Don't know where you got "a bit thicker"; it isn't. It ("green" drywall) is the same thickness, but is moisture resistant. Also not washable, though it will be after being primed and painted with washable paint.
On 3/11/2009 3:13 PM SteveBell spake thus:
But how do you finish the cement board for paint (assuming no tile over it)? Seems as though that would be even more work than just putting the stuff up.
On 3/11/2009 5:04 PM snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca spake thus:
Oopsies. 20 lashes with a wet noodle for me.
snipped-for-privacy@mypacks.net wrote in news:216c55e4-3541-4bc0-9f72-118c4439bb19 @j35g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:
If you insist on only sanding and painting over it, prime with oil base primer. This will keep the paper from getting wet and bubbling further when it gets wet again from painting/mudding.
Wrong.
Wrong.
Wrong.
Greenboard is made for *damp* areas, not wet. Blueboard shouldn't be anywhere near water.
And greenboard hasn't been code-approved for use in shower enclosures for several years, at least, because it supports the growth of mold.
Replace the damaged drywall or damaged section of the wall. Cut along the middle of a stud to allow a ledge where you can fasten your drywall patch. Then it's mud & sand 3-6 times, prime, and paint. Use a work light against the wall to inspect your work before you prime, this may humble some.
This was specifically a comment on wallpaper.
Yup! But it's 'she' (not that ya can tell by the nickname here!).
Not familiar with mylar foil but the vinyl yes. Thats what I'm used to seeing recommended for bathrooms.
I got the impression the 'wall' he was talking about wasnt one that would normally be in a direct line of spray, and was only gotten wet due to the plumming accident, hence the suggestion.
"Red Green" wrote
Question, have you had much luck putting latex over oil based primer? I ask because my Mom taught me that's bad juju. Pretty much put oil over oil. It was a bear when we had to paint a chair rail and window setup that was oil based before and we needed to put latex over it. Had to sand the dickens out of it to make it work.
"cshenk" wrote in news:U8cul.148677$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe19.iad:
Absolutely. In one place I got there was a bathroom that was painted over wallpaper with latex. The paper had bubbled.
Remove loose stuff. Oil prime areas to be mudded/patched (water in mud will further bubbling of wallpaper). Mudd and smooth Prime everything with oil base. Paint with latex.
Worked like a charm...whether it's suppose to or not.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.