drywall mud recipe

I recently put up drywall in my garage (two wall and ceiling). I started to do the taping and mudding part and I have a question about the consistency of the mud. The five gallon bucket of mud says to add water to get the correct consistency. Being that this is my first major drywall project, I'm not sure what consistency to look for. Does anyone have a recommendation for the amount of water to add to a five gallon bucket of mud? or how to gauge the correct consistency?

Robin

Reply to
rlz
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If your talking about the 5 gallon USG joint compounds, I never added water. It was fine out of the bucket. Perhaps they are saying that in case you had it for a while and it dried up.

Reply to
Mikepier

It's USG All Purpose Jint compound. The instructions say that for covering fasteners, the mudd can be used directly out of the bucket. For taping, thinning should be done by adding water. Thus my question on how much to add.

Robin

Reply to
rlz

My drywall guy always waters that down a bit so it goes on smoother for the later coats. That makes for less sanding.

Reply to
gfretwell

the method that has always worked for me is to fill your mud pan, but before you put your knife in, dip it in a bucket of water. Do this everytime you go back to the pan. Your knife stays wet, the mud flows better, etc etc...

good luck with your project.

jc

Reply to
Joe

I just used the same product. I took as much compound out as I needed. The directions say to add small amounts of water. I took out about 1 or 2 pints of compound and added about 2 - 3 tablespoons of water. Mix vigorously. The water helps with the final coat of plaster. I didn't need to sand at all and the wall came out beautiful. I used a 14" plaster knife for the final coat. Don't add too much water. You'd probably be better off with no water than too much. Of course if the compound has been sitting around along time you'll need more water. The more water you add the longer it takes to dry.

You just want the plaster to apply smoooothly and SMALL amts of water goes along way. Since you're not familiar with the product work with small amounts.

Reply to
Master Betty

Start with just a couple of cups. It is better to mix the mud in a separate bucket, if you get it to thin you can add some more mud. Some pros I've spoken with use "less than a quart" for a 5 gallon bucket.

Have a look at this video. It shows a good consistency. Notice when he lifts if out that the mud is not runny. More like a cake batter?

Video:

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Reply to
Oren

Do you have a paddle mixer and a VARIABLE speed 1/2 inch drill to mix it...If so add water to about 1/2 inch of the rim of the bucket...Start mixing SLOWLY or you will throw mud and water everywhere and bring it up to full speed and mix about 2-3 minutes..For the finale skim coat I add a little more water and remix or remove some mud in a new bucket to make room..Just toss it back in after you use some of it up and spin it again..

If you don't have a power mixer you can mix it in your mud pan unless like me you use a haulk in which case use an empty bucket or or watever you have handy to mix it by hand..Start with a little water and add more till it is as thin as you want it...

Adding water does not add drying time but it does shrink a bit more..Using it straight out of the bucket is a PITA , full of air bubbles , hard to level or smooth out and hard on the hands and arm as it is very stiff...HTH...

Reply to
benick

Not to nit pick but plaster and joint compound are 2 VERY different things..There is no such thing as a plaster knife..It is a 14 inch taping knife..Just wanted the OP to know what to ask for if he went looking for one or he would be laughed at...For plaster you use flat 12 inch trowls and haulks...HTH...

Reply to
benick

Around here, they sell several different types of compound in the 5 gal bucket.

Your first coat should be the harder type, it say "all purpose". It dries hard, does not sand easy. The second/third coats are applied using a "topping compound".

You can work out of the mud pan, to check your consistency. Note how much compound you put in the pan, add measurable amounts of water, little by little. Find or purchase one of those $7.00 electric mixers for cake mixes etc. Add the water, mix with the mixer, check consistency adding water as needed & mix further. No need to add water to the entire bucket unless you have a 1/2" drill with a mixing paddle. Those tools are too expensive to purchase for a one time use. Besides, you may add too much water to the 5 gal bucket, unless you've done it b/4. I've done the dry compound, various

30-60-90 minutes setting types, working out of a pan. If you happen to use setting type, you want to clean your mixer thingies b/4 you start mudding. Otherwise, they will harden b/4 you get to them again. Use a mud knife while mixing, to push the mud down the side of the pan, so it will mix with water.

For instance, if doing a knock down texture, you use topping compound, mix in a full 2 liter bottle of water to 5 gal. Done, work out of the bucket with brush & knock down with wet taping knife.

Reply to
Tony L.

That's about the right amount.

I thin a 5g bucket with about 2 inches of water from a medium soft drink cup.

Mud is pretty cheap, but adding water is a lot easier than getting it out. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

That's incorrect. The act of applying compound is plastering. Look it up if you don't believe me. You're only looking at one narrow definition of plaster. "to lay flat like a layer of plaster." is plastering. But, If you go to Homedepot they will call it a taping knife. I seriously doubt he'd be laughed at as a taping knife is used for the act of plastering. Joint compound is commonly called "drywall plaster".

And you are correct; you are nit-picking.

Reply to
Master Betty

It's USG All Purpose Jint compound. The instructions say that for covering fasteners, the mudd can be used directly out of the bucket. For taping, thinning should be done by adding water. Thus my question on how much to add.

Robin

IMO, all purpose is fine as shipped for nail heads, bedding and taping including the skin coat over the tape.

Additional coats require a small amount of water.

It is something you have to learn. But to get you started, if is has the consistency of brownie mix that is about right for the second coat.

Thick pancake batter, or soft butter is better for the later coats.

Reply to
Colbyt

ROFLMAO...Stop it I can't take it any more..My sides hurt..ROFLMAO..

Reply to
benick

I've only met one person that spent his career as a drywall finisher. He was collecting SS and working side jobs when called for.

Working a knife and compound for say, 30 years was hard on him. He wore an arm/wrist brace so he could still work. Amazing finish work that crew could do.

Oh, he walked beside my ladder one day after I drove a long screw in a door frame. Lowering this beast of a drill, he was hit in the head. I apologized and asked him not to walk by when I have the drill in my hand.

He carried a large lump on his head for a few days :-\

Reply to
Oren

You're full of it...Show me a link..

Answers.com. plaster

n. 1.. A mixture of lime or gypsum, sand, and water, sometimes with fiber added, that hardens to a smooth solid and is used for coating walls and ceilings. 2.. Plaster of Paris. 3.. A pastelike mixture applied to a part of the body for healing or cosmetic purposes. Also called sticking plaster. 4.. Chiefly British. An adhesive bandage.

v., -tered, -ter·ing, -ters.

v.tr. 1.. To cover, coat, or repair with plaster. 2.. To cover or hide with or as if with a coat of plaster: plastered over our differences. 3.. To apply a plaster to: plaster an aching muscle. 4.. 1.. To cover conspicuously, as with things pasted on; overspread: plaster the walls with advertising. 2.. To affix conspicuously, usually with a paste: plaster notices on all the doors. 5.. To make smooth by applying a sticky substance: plaster one's hair with pomade. 6.. To make adhere to another surface: "His hair was plastered to his forehead" (William Golding). 7.. Informal. 1.. To inflict heavy damage or injury on. 2.. To defeat decisively

Reply to
benick

It may be "fine" right out of the bucket but it's alot harder on the body...LOL...

Reply to
benick

...

Thanks everyone for the info and the video link. I've got the tape using the mud as it came out of the bucket. This weekend I'll work on the skin coat by adding a little water to the mud. Then I'll finish it. the following weekend. Of course sanding in between coats. Then of course, there's priming and painting. Soo much fun to look forward to....lol

Robin

Reply to
rlz

I am, BUT, Google "joint compound plaster":

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Plastering is also an "act" but if the OP looks at HD he should ask for a "taping knife". If he tells them he "dry-walling" they will know what he's talking about. (I just did it. I had to buy a new knife)

I'm sure plaster comes in many forms. You can go to any online dictionary and see definitions of plaster. Hey!...You even said you were nit-picking. I did a Google image search and came up with all sorts of plastering knifes but the "taping knife" appears to be more correct where the 14" is concerned. But what did they call them before drywall?

I asked for a plastering knife at HD and they asked me what I was doing. If they were laughing I couldn't tell. :) I don't care anyway. It's not uncommon for a tool to have different names and it's a silly thing to waste time talking about.

Jim

Reply to
Master Betty

You talkin' 'bout the cake mixer?!

Never saw one on a job site, myself.

Reply to
Oren

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