Drywall corners around access door - will this work?

Hi all:
I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having 4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.
I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall. However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door (they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack. Will this work? Any alternatives?
Thanks in advance, John.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

John I did something similar. Instead of the corner bead I used metal J bead to finish off the edges of the drywall. I then applied joint compound over the bead to even it out and make it invisible. It's been fine for about eight years.
I bought a set of Soss hinges, but the ones I got need to go into a very thick door. I just made a plywood door with 1" x 3" around the back side and skim coated it. I used several small cabinet hinges and the hinge pins are not that visible.
Make your frame out of double 2" x 4"s all around and it won't shift.
I put a small block of wood on the upper and lower corner and put 1/4-20 Tee nuts on them. I countersunk two holes on the door and use 1/4-20 flat head bolts to keep it closed. To get in you need to use a screwdriver which discourages kids. I also used weather-stripped molding on the back side to keep air from passing through easily.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
the_tool_man wrote:

I recommend a finish other than wallboard. If you use car siding or beadboard, you can make a _truly_ invisible door. The latches can be the magnetic type seen on glass doors.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes the drywall to wood joint WILL crack. Instead I would put L Bead around trim and caulk the joint....However I like the J Bead on the drywall and flush plywood door you mentioned first unless it was going to be used for a closet and opened every day ....Good luck.....
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.