Drywall around new bathtub install...

I'm installing a tub/surround this weekend. I'm planning on drywalling flush to the tiling flange (i.e., the drywall will "sit" on the top of the lip). My question is: do I cut the drywall so that it runs as tightly as possible down the front of the tub? Then finish with caulk? Something more aesthetic?

TIA! Darryl.

Reply to
Darryl
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You do not want to use drywall for a bathtub surround. It will not last. Use the cement boards instead.

Reply to
Mikepier

Read his post again.

Reply to
G Henslee

I would run the drywall up close to the surround then flat tape up to the surround, followed by a bead of caulk as their may eventually be a hairline crack where the drywall meets the surround.

Reply to
G Henslee

By 'flat tape' you understand I meant tape and mud.

Reply to
G Henslee

Thanks again, G.

(I will be using greenboard but I just needed to solve the finishing problem first).

Reply to
Darryl

Sorry, I have a habit of reading these posts fast and I misunderstood.

Reply to
Mikepier

I was hoping to see an answer here because I did the same thing last summer. Could not find any info on the net and no suggestions here.

Ok... a real pain, work and time but it turned out real nice. Used plastic outside corner bead to do the job. Plastic to eliminate any rusting that may take place if any paint chips off. The 90° was less than 90 so I had to use heat to get a better fit on the edge of the sheetrock. Then 1 leg was cut down to slightly less than 1/2" (thickness of sheetrock) to fit over the edge of the sheetrock. The gap between surround and sheetrock was trimmed with sheetrock in place (1/4" plywood worked well to gouge out a consistent gap) so the final gap with bead installed will be about 1/8". After I was sure all was fitting nicely, I applied the adhesive designed for gluing corner bead to sheetrock, fitted the corner in place using spacers to maintain gap, and the secured the sheetrock, corner bead, and surround flange to the underlying framing members. I used regular joint mud to finish it off but you may get better mileage with something a bit more moisture resistant. Primer, couple coats of good quality mildew resistant semi-gloss paint, the gap filled with mildew resistant silicone and it looks damn nice.

Next one will be the kind that is glued on top of a finished wall. ;-)

Reply to
DaveW

Yippers.

Reply to
Darryl

Thanks for the reply Dave.

I'd already picked up some paper/steel outside edge corner bead but after reading your post, I'll look for cornerbead glue (didin't realize it existed) and the plastic bead. Home Depot must love DIY'ers like me :-)

Darryl.

Reply to
Darryl

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