Out in SoCal, I've seen 9' ceilings done with two 4' wide sheets (hung
horizontally) and a "belly band" of about 1' between the two sheets.
I was surprised at this configuration since not all belly band edges
would be tapered. But I guess ease of taping (more accessible height)
was more imorptant than edge tapers?
thanks for the reply. I did do one wall this way in an older house we
rehabbed. I had to tear out one plaster wall to replace a sewer stack
and did exactly what you said here. It worked out well having the band
in the middle. At least no bending over to work it.
Any building materials supplier can provide 54 inch x 120 inch drywall
if you wish to hang horizontally and avoid the belly band. Here at
least, 54 inch board only comes in 12 footers.
Don't know if the box stores carry these or not.
I've been close to asking a similar question. my garage ceiling is
about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung
vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all beveled
seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing?
I don't have any direct experience, but I think the idea is that while
taping, it is much easier to walk along a horizontal joint than a
vertical joint. For a 4' vertical butt joint, you can probably reach
the whole joint from a single location, while for a 9'6" vertical
joint, you'd have to move up and down a ladder repeatedly.
1. Footage: Running horizontal results in about 1/3 less footage of
2. Door/windows: It is a rare 12' wall that does not have an
opening of some sort in it. Planning puts all, or almost all, butt
joints above/below the openings
3. Taping a butt joint, even one that has one tapered and one cut
edge, is not a big deal. Just do not use the mesh type tape on a flat
joint. Very hard to cover without having a buildup.
4. Crawling up/down ladders or stools while trying to do a smooth job
is not fun.
Learned that the hard way on my first job. You would have to hold a
gun to my head before I would run vertical again.
No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an
unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. While this may or may not be visible to
the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over
openings like that.
Odd, I have a butt join over every window/door I have and had no
trouble with trim. If you have a bulge big enough to cause trouble,
you ain't a good taper. I for sure ain't much of a taper and I don't
have a problem.
OK, I just try to avoid butt joints, so I'll take your word for it.
I think the point is there's nothing set in stone that drywall HAS to be
hung horizontally or vertically. I've done it both ways, and still prefer
vertical hanging for most installations. If horizontal works better for
you, by all means go with that.
The pro's game is speed and efficiency. They wouldn't think twice about
throwing up a 16' sheet horizontally to span a room and avoid an extra
joint. They have the manpower, equipment, and probably a few tricks up
their sleeve from years of experience.
The average DIY'er probably works alone, or with the help of one other
person (i.e. The wife). It's easier to use smaller sheets and have a few
extra joints to tape, than it is to wrestle a large sheet in place just to
avoid a joint.
Home Centers are open after work, which means that's the typical supply
source for most DIY projects. And, most folks don't have a way to transport
sheets larger than 4x8 anyway. If the job is big enough, I'll have the
sheetrock delivered, but that usually doesn't make sense for a small room
that only needs a few sheets. Delivery is also not an option if there's no
place to store the sheets, like my in-laws tiny cluttered house.
I've done a lot of drywall projects, but I'm still far from an expert. I
just know what works for me.
Oops, forgot to add. Put no joint at the corners of the opening, they
go in the middle of the space. Best of course is a sheet going right
across the space but then you wind up with an extra 8' or 9' butt
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