Dryer Shutting Off

I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be crimped or kinked.
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It could mean the exhaust is restricted or it could be overheating and doing a "safety shut down" or there could be a failing component.
I know that that is not much help, but the point is that the fact that it is shutting off doesn't specifically mean that the exhaust is restricted. There are multiple other causes for a dryer to shut off. The fact that it worked the last time it was in service doesn't mean that something wasn't ready to fail the next time you used it.
A quick test would be to pull it out from the wall and absolutely ensure that there is free air flow from the vent. Then run it and see what happens.
It's also possible that you dislodged some inner lint and have restricted airflow inside the unit. I clean my gas dryer about once a year, inside and out. Just did it this morning as a matter of fact. There is always some inside lint, especially on the fan fins, so I remove the internal ductwork and vacuum it all out. This morning I also replaced the foam gasket around the fan/duct hole since the adhesive was failing. I don't need any exhaust leaks into the basement.
Good luck!
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It could be shutting itself off on high limit cuz it's overheating.
It's possible that the duct the dryer is blowing into is clogged with lint.
It could also be that the vent itself is so long and tortuous that you're not getting sufficient air flow through the duct, and the dryer is over heating as a result. Note that for the best air flow you need the shortest straightest and smoothest duct. If your duct is long, has lots of bends in it, and/or is made of vinyl and wire, then the resistance to air flow through the duct can be sufficient to cause the dryer to overheat.
I would disconnect the exhaust duct and put it out an open window if possible and then see if the dryer works OK when it's not trying to blow through that duct. If it works fine then, there's a problem with the duct.
--
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On Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:48:35 PM UTC-5, mcp6453 wrote:

ryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does no t appear to be crimped or kinked.
Is the drum turning??You don't say, but assuming it is, then disconnect the exhaust hose right at the dryer and run it empty. You won't get a lot of lint doing that, and you can confirm that there is a good exhaust air flow and that the unit does not shut down. Then connect the exhaust hose at the dryer end and remove it from however it goes thru the wall and repeat the test. Is there good air flow, does the unit shut down, what do you see? I f all ok to this point manually try to open the louvers on the vent where i t goes thru the wall. Does the vent open with just a slight amount of pres sure? If so, connect the exhaust hose to the vent and try again. Go outsi de and see if the vent louvers are opening when the dryer is on. If so, no w add some clothes to the dryer and see what happens. It could be that the dryer drum belt is somehow slipping, the drum may turn under no load, but may be slipping under a clothes load and that is also slowing down the fan.
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On Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:

Run it with the hose disconnected. You don't say if it shuts down entirely or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but th ey are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps goin g but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside i t you can use to troubleshoot further.
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On 6/24/2013 8:40 AM, jamesgang wrote:

just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you can use to troubleshoot further.

I just decided to call my regular appliance repair guy. His charges are really reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.
Thanks
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mcp6453 wrote:

or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you can use to troubleshoot further.

During the move maybe something got jolted. When I move dryer I always open it up and clean out well using vacuum and bristle brush, check all the wires/connections B4 I install it.
After dryer shuts off and cools down does it start normal again? If that's the case poor venting or shorted heater coil is causing over heat condition triggering safety switch(sensor)
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On 6/24/2013 10:46 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:

I will certainly report back what he finds. It is a curiosity to me. I don't know if it restarts when it cools down since my daughter is the person using it, but that's my understanding.
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On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:01:39 AM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:

t they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped insi de it you can use to troubleshoot further.

Odds are that whatever he finds will be so strange that it'll never happen again so the knowledge will be useless in the future. ;-)
Either that or it'll be so simple that you'll kick yourself for not finding it yourself.
But, hey, you'll have a working dryer in any case, and your daughter will a ppreciate the help.
(My wife and daughter brought home a used car for my daughter a few weeks a go. Now dad spends his weekends replacing rotors, pads and belts. Next on t he list is one of the power window motors. I don't which is worse - the gri eve I would have gotten if I had told them not to buy the car or the work I have to put into it so I'll be comfortable when she drives it. Actually, I really do know which one is worse.)
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Since you're thread drifting, I'll restart helpful suggestions. . Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org . .
(My wife and daughter brought home a used car for my daughter a few weeks ago. Now dad spends his weekends replacing rotors, pads and belts. Next on the list is one of the power window motors. I don't which is worse - the grieve I would have gotten if I had told them not to buy the car or the work I have to put into it so I'll be comfortable when she drives it. Actually, I really do know which one is worse.)
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Please tell us what you learn, I'm curious. . Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org . .
I just decided to call my regular appliance repair guy. His charges are really reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.
Thanks
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On 6/24/2013 7:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Apparently there was an obstruction that cleared itself in the vent. The repair guy checked the installation, and it was fine (although I'm still not sure the exhaust hose was not kinked.) He reinstalled the dryer, ran it for a couple of cycles, and it didn't overheat.
He did find a problem with the agitator in the washer. He fixed it in just a few minutes. Now the washer and dryer are working correctly.
Thanks for the input and help.
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I've had dryer overheat yet not shutoff. It was still a case of one of the thermostats being bad.
Greg
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On Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:48:35 PM UTC-5, mcp6453 wrote:

ryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does no t appear to be crimped or kinked.
How about posting here what your repairman finds so we can all gain a littl e additional knowledge????
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On 6/24/2013 10:22 AM, snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net wrote:

previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be crimped or kinked.

Absolutely.
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"mcp6453" wrote in message
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be crimped or kinked.
If after it shuts off can it be restarted or must wait a while for it to cool? If required to cool it could be the overload mounted on the motor and will trip if the motor is loaded with lint that prevents air flow through the motor. As the motor cools the overload will reset. In the 35 years as an appliance repair person I have seen this many times. Blow lint out of motor with air (if you have a compressor) or use a tank vacuum and connect to the exhaust end. WW
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On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:02:43 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:

re: "or use a tank vacuum and connect to the exhaust end."
Alas, many of the newer tank (canister) vacs no longer provide the ability to connect a hose to the exhaust.
I recently replaced a 1980's vintage Mighty Mite with a 201x version. The o ld one had a rear filter door that opened, exposing an exhaust outlet that would accept the hose. The new one does not. However, I can replace the bac k end with an adaptor that will hold a hepa filter. (* see my comment below )
I just checked a couple of canister vacs from other manufacturers and they do not have exhaust ports either.
* Comment: It appears to me that the manufacturers are more concerned with providing higher filtration of the exhaust vs. including an exhaust port th at can be used with the hose. Hepa filters and micro-fiber bags are all the rage these days. My unscientific evaluation results are that the higher th e filtration properties of the bag, the sooner the vac loses suction power.
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