My dryer is getting rust stains on my whites and I want to paint a small area on the dryer drum. My problem is that I have been unable to find the heat resistant enamel appliance paint to take care of this. Can anyone help with this? Thanks.
You could ask the guys on usenet forum alt home repair. . Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
It is usually baked on enamel which wouldn't hold paint very well. You're best bet would to use a two part epoxy paint.
Jasmine:
I'm presuming that this is a Whirlpool dryer cuz I know Whirlpool uses a felt seal at the back of the dryer drum.
The proper repair would be to replace the sealing felt at the back of the dryer drum.
You see, the dryer drum rolls on rollers and there's a felt "skirt" at the back of the drum that forms a seal around the drum to prevent that warm moist air from blowing out at the back of the drum. When that seal gets worn out, the warm moist air inside the dryer blows onto the polished steel that the felt seal has been rubbing against for the last two decades and causes it to rust.
Clothes that get between the dryer drum and that now rusting polished steel end up with rust marks on them.
So, the correct fix is to take the drum out of the machine, remove the old felt seal and install a new one. I've done this on my sister's Whirlpool dryer (sold under the brand name "Inglis" here in Canada), and it's not all that hard to do, but you will need several volunteers (pronounced "friends" or "family members") to help you put the new seal on straight.
Every appliance manufacturer has their own recommended adhesive to put the new seal on, and it's probably best to use the factory recommended product. If it's no longer available, phone the Whirlpool factory authorized service depot in your area and ask what they use. This is a problem that happens with every Whirlpool/Inglis dryer eventually.
Ooops, I made one of the errors that I always pick out in other's posts. I meant 'Your', not 'You're' Sorry, Mrs. Reagan (my elementary school teacher).
My dryer is getting rust stains on my whites and I want to paint a small area on the dryer drum. My problem is that I have been unable to find the heat resistant enamel appliance paint to take care of this. Can anyone help with this? Thanks.
You're not from this planet, are you? :)
You don't need heat resistant paint, but it's available everywhere as barbque paint, and car parts stores sell hi-temp paint for exhaust systems. However they may not harden completely unless subjected to heat, like over 150 degrees F. Even regular enamels, urethanes, and 1-part epoxy paints won't harden for a long time unless you do that, so you may want to follow Willshak's recommendation to use
2-part epoxy paint.To make the paint stick well and prevent the rust from coming back, you need to either remove 100% of the rust, use paint made for rusty surfaces (Krylon sells it), or apply rust converter (POR-40 is best because it cures so hard). Naval Jelly is good for not only removing rust (may have to apply it several times and sand or scrape) but also makes paint stick better to bare steel, meaning it should help prevent future rust. Enamel paints are a lot less permeable to moisture than are lacquers (car touch-up paint).
Curing 1-part paint requires higher temps than hair dryers put out, but if you use a heat gun, be sure it has at least 3-4 temperature settings or it will melt or burn the paint. Ace Hardware has $36 heat gun with 10 temperature settings that works well for this:
Nestork's diagnosis of rust being caused by a worn rear felt drum seal letting in exhaust moisture was dead-on accurate in the case of my parent's Whirlpool dryer. The replacement felt seal kit included some special high temperature rubber glue that was a lot darker than normal (but rated for the same temperature as regular paint -- that's why I said you don't need special hi-temp paint). Another type of rubber glue that will work is automotive disk brake anti-squeak. It used to be sold under the Bendix brand but is now from CRC:
I've seen it in orange, green, and blue. It can take even higher temps than the glue included with dryer drum rear seal kits (I used it to glue some rubber in the engine compartment of my Toyota). The only downside of it is that it stains badly, so be careful not to spill it.
If you're going to go to the trouble of removing the dryer drum to paint it or replace its rear felt seal, you may as well install a new drive belt, drive belt tensioner, and rear support rollers (2) because they don't cost that much more. I don't know if you need to replace the front felt seal/bearing, but it doesn't cost much, either.
Parts prices can vary a lot, and sometimes Sears is cheaper than other places.
Ooops, I made one of the errors that I always pick out in other's posts. I meant 'Your', not 'You're' Sorry, Mrs. Reagan (my elementary school teacher).
Naah,he's from Orson.
You're not from this planet, are you? :)
Thank you all for your help!
Araldite or similar epoxy glue.
Go to an autoparts store.
P&M?
Any engine paint could handle it.
Maybe less beer and less beans will eliminate the "rust" stains in the underwear too.
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