Drill Chuck removal

How can I remove the chuck from this drill?
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Walter
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Walter:
Use the largest Allen wrench you have, the small leg of the "L" is inserted into the chuck. You whack the long arm at the end. The longer the long arm is the better.
The chuck is held onto the end of drill shaft by a friction fit left hand threads. The quick sharp whack will loosen the chuck threads a little bit at each whack.
(Yes! the inertia of the shaft and motor will be overcome and the whole shaft and chuck will rotate on each whack. But for short and momentary fraction of a second, before the whole shaft rotates, the whacking will affect chuck on the threaded end of the drill shaft.)
Expect to make at least 4 whacks, but may need more than 6.
Phil
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Phil Again wrote:

or you could use the drill motor to do your dirty work for you - lock the allen wrench in a vice and start the drill in reverse.
nate
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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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writes: | Phil Again wrote: | > | > | >>>- Open the chuck jaws and remove the screw in the bottom, (reverse | >>>thread), then tighten a large allen wrench in the chuck, secure the | >>>drill and whack the wrench with a hammer, counter clockwise repeatedly | >>>until it spins freely and unscrew it. | >>> | > | > | > Walter: | > | > Use the largest Allen wrench you have, the small leg of the "L" is | > inserted into the chuck. You whack the long arm at the end. The longer | > the long arm is the better. | > | > The chuck is held onto the end of drill shaft by a friction fit left hand | > threads. The quick sharp whack will loosen the chuck threads a little | > bit at each whack. | > | > (Yes! the inertia of the shaft and motor will be overcome and the whole | > shaft and chuck will rotate on each whack. But for short and momentary | > fraction of a second, before the whole shaft rotates, the whacking will | > affect chuck on the threaded end of the drill shaft.) | > | > Expect to make at least 4 whacks, but may need more than 6. | > | > Phil | | or you could use the drill motor to do your dirty work for you - lock | the allen wrench in a vice and start the drill in reverse.
I tried various combinations of the above to remove the chuck from a Makita drill (afer removing the internal screw). It wouldn't budge. Then I had the thought to couple the drill to an air impact wrench. I used the 1/2" square x 5/16" hex adapter from a hand impact wrench and a long 5/16" bit to clamp in the drill's chuck. The chuck spun off on the first pull of the impact wrench's trigger.
                Dan Lanciani                 ddl@danlan.*com
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wrote:

Don't do it. I once left a chuck wrench on the chuck. The wrench was secured to the power cord. I pressed the trigger by mistake and there was a loud grind of stripped gears Indeed. The motor shaft spline and the reduction gear disk had large chunks sheared off. That was the end of a favorite and expensive Rockwell drill.
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Thanks RBM. Trouble is, the screw at the bottom refuses to come out, reverse thread and all. Time to toss that old HF special.
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Walter
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RBM wrote:

They don't all unscrew. My drill press chuck is just pressed onto a tapered shaft. I would never have known it but it came disassembled.
--
Claude Hopper :)

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You use double wedges to remove a tapered chuck. Not likely that's what he has on a hand drill
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Probably hold it and spin the drill in reverse. -----
- gpsman
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look down inside the chuck. There is most likely a bolt. Left hand thread I expect.
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Walter R. wrote:

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If that's a HF drill you would be better off throwing it away. The new chuck would cost more then a new HF drill.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can\'t make them THINK"
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Oddly enough I remember purchasing a real Jacobs brand 3/8" chuck at a HF for less than $10. Saved an old "utility" 3/8" drill that had a shitty keyless chuck from getting tossed in the trash.
nate
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