for just under $ 30. Or you could use the weekly 20% off.
Lowes has one that looks similar for about $ 43.
Home Depot seems to have 2 brands that are similar.
I bet they are all made in or near the same place in China.
You can go to You Tube and look around for them to see them use.
I put mine on a piece of 2x4 about a foot long and clamp it in my vise when
I want to use it.
On 2/16/2016 4:30 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Do you do that "by eye"? I.e., with the device powered off, lower it
into/onto the blade until it's "where you want it". Then, set a
"stop", retract the mechanism and begin sharpening?
OK, so it's going "in and out" (on an angle, from the side, so to speak)
instead of "up and down".
Because of variations in chains? Or, because you can't get the new chain
into exactly the same spot that the previous chain was in?
I've sharpened so many chains with a round file+guide that it's now
almost second nature. But, I don't let a chain "get real bad"
before touching it up. So, there's nothing discouraging me from
doing it (whereas if I'd let the chain get really bad, I'd want to
postpone sharpening it -- cuz it was going to be a big ordeal.
That, in turn, means the chain will end up duller when I finally get
around to doing it. <frown> Easier to just keep it sharp with
a LITTLE effort so it only ever NEEDS a little effort!)
You should always stop "fooling with the saws" -- or any tool/activity, for
that matter -- the day *before* you screw up! :>
I've inherited a few tools from a friend. Whenever I protest (i.e., I
really don't need to OWN one of these -- esp if I can come borrow YOURS!),
he holds up his mangled (injured) hands with missing parts as if to
prove *he* doesn't need it, either!
eye' and set a stop as to how far down you want it to cut. There is another
adjustment as to where the chain stops at. Once you get the two or three
adjustments made all you have to do is advance the chain to the next tooth
and bring the wheel down. When this is done for all the teeth facing one
direction you move the part that holds the chain to the othe side and then
repeat the cutting of the othe teeth.
Because of the variations in the chain. If you start with a new chain for
the first sharpening, the second sharpening will need to be adjusted to
compensate for the removed material of the chain tooth.
It probably would be easier to hit it with a file if you have the skill to
do it. I just don't seem to be able to develope that skill. I don't use
the saw very much so don't get a chance to practice. For less than $ 30 it
is about the cost of the files and guides. If it only sharpens about 10
chains it would be worth the cost.
OK. And, the chains where the chain length precludes "evenly spaced"
teeth you would notice a cutter "in the wrong position" (it would be
out of place by one or more "links" so unlikely you'll fail to notice)
No doubt! I'm overly concerned with storing things as we don't really have
(enough) places to do so. E.g., no attic or basement so that leaves
closets and garage. Garage gets warm -- even with insulated door -- and
I'm not keen on reaching into boxes that have been out there (scorpions,
black widow spiders, etc.).
So, I opt for small things that I can "inspect" at a glance ("Any spiders
hiding in that mechanism?"). All of my "power tools" (larger items) are
stored in "sealed" containers -- which means they take up even MORE space!
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 23:49:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
Years ago, I bought one of those guides, and probably spent close to $30
for it. I was never happy with the results and I still wasted at least
an hour on a chain. I think I got $2 for it when I sold it at an
auction. Replacement chains are about $18 for my small saw. Hardly worth
the cost of the guide, files, and all the time involved. In the time I
spend shapening the chain, I can have a whole tree down and cut up. Time
On 2/15/2016 8:38 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Do they just "go dull"? Or, more spectacular failures?
I tried using one of the cylindrical "grinding stones" to make a
shallow "scallop" in the edge of some reasonably soft steel.
All I succeeded in doing was wearing the stone down to nothing
(as if I was dressing a grinding wheel!).
I took out a rat tail file and got the desired result with
two or three strokes!
(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
From this and other posts in this thread , you apparently don't know how
to use a Dremel properly . I have a clamp and mount that attaches my Dremel
to my machine lathe . I use it to finish grind precision bearing and other
surfaces using those same stones you're complaining about . Most of the time
it's about choosing the proper tool for the job . You should have grabbed
the file first . Grinders - other than angle grinders , which are another
subject entirely - are usually reserved for finishing operations rather than
shaping or heavy stock removal . .
I never found those tiny dremel grinder bits to last long either (on
metal). The one thing I did use mine for was grinding a nice (almost
square) hole in a door frame for a door-knob striker plate. I'd just
drill a 5/8" hole, then use the dremel tool to make a nice hole to fit
the striker plate. Much nicer job than a chisel. That's probably the
only real useful thing I got from that tool. If I need to cut off a
bolt, I use my angle grinder. A $2 wheel will cut 30 bolts, but it would
probably take $15 or $20 worth of dremel bits to cut one 3/8" bolt.
The "diamond" part stops working pretty fast. I was cutting holes in
glass and it took a bit per hole but the price was right.
I also had some of the stones and had the same result as you but it
did get the (small) job done.
I tried a radial brass brush to clean up a battery holder and again,
one bit, one job.
The real dremel bits seem a bit better.
Dremel tools are really just for working on tiny things anyway except
for chain saws. If you get the real chain saw stone, they make
sharpening a chain saw a couple minute thing. It is a lot faster than
a file and it seems to be a lot easier if you don't have a jig.
We have palm trees here and they will eat a chain (sand migrates up
into the trunk) so sharpening is a constant thing.
On 2/15/2016 10:12 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
So, just like other HF tools that "loose their edge" quickly.
Drill bits can be resharpened; these more ornate "milling bits"
are essentially use until discard...
Yeah, but CONSIDERABLY pricier. :<
Most things here are softwoods (though we have palms, as well -- I've
just never felled one... too messy to *want* one!). Pick the right
time of year (when sap isn't flowing) and they're a piece of cake.
I felled a 25 ft Mulberry (some 40 feet in dia) with just a bow saw
by carefully selecting *when* I did it.
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 05:20:51 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
It gets pulled up with the water. This is not beach sand, it is a very
fine grit but it will knock the edge off of chain saw teeth right
away. The closer to the ground you get, the more sand so always start
cutting up a palm log from the top and when you get about 6-8 feet
from the root end, plan on sharpening your saw a couple times before
you are done. If I really do not need to cut it off right at the
ground, I will take a palm about eye high and leave the rest. After
about a year, you can just push it over. The roots rot out pretty fast
after it dies. On a sable, shove a bunch of air plants in the boots
and it looks like you planned it to be that way.
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