I apologize if this was discussed before my time.
We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've
read different things about periodically training water heaters and I
don't know what to believe.
I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.
It is very complicated. AOn the side near the bottom is what looks like a
water spicket. You cut off the breaker if electric powered or cut to the
pilot light or off if gas. Cut off the water going to it. Then you hook up
a water hose to it or some other way to get rid of the water and open the
valve. On top is a relief valve that you want to open so air can get into
the water heater. Sometimes the relef valve will not reseat and you have to
Then fill the heater back up after cutting off the drain valve and apply
the power or gas. You may want to turn on the hot water valve at a sink to
help the air get out of the system.
Depends a lot on the water heater. I might consider draining an
electric heater, but have found it a total waste of time on gas - but
then I buy the better heater with the "turbulator tube" that does not
allow any sediment to build up.
I have not been following the thread - so this may have been mentioned
- but the "drain valve" on MOST water heaters is so pitiful that even
if you drained it monthly it would never last the life of the water
heater. Many fail the first time they are used. Cheap chinese plastic
crap. That is one more difference between cheap and better quality
heaters. The good ones get rebuildable brass drain valves.
On 2/17/2016 8:46 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm sure they saved *much* less than $10!
People would be amazed to know what things actually cost.
And, in most cases, unable to understand why the *price*
was so much higher ("Wow! Look at all that PROFIT!")
Many HO do their own water heater drains. You
can likely find instructions on the web. In
my case, the WH drain points out the cabinet
door, out to the ground. Once or so each year
I open the valve, and let the water and
sediment blow out to the ground.
I have always heard this and never done it. Unless there's something I
don't know, which is very likely, the sediment would be in the bottom.
If the valve is in the bottom, sediment would flow out first. If the
valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and unless there is a pipe
inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank, the sediment would
never drain out.
I did test the pressure relief valve every few months on a previous
water heater as recommended, starting when it was a couple of years old.
Within a couple of years it got so it wouldn't reseat completely and
always dripped after that.
Latest water heater sits in the corner of the garage with a drain pan
underneath that is plumbed outside, and the relieve vent plumbed to
outside. I'm not touching it until it stops working or blows up.
message news:7eadnfXAiqZ2IF7LnZ2dnUU7-I have always heard this and never
done it. Unless there's something I don't know, which is very likely, the
sediment would be in the bottom. If the valve is in the bottom, sediment
would flow out first. If the valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and
unless there is a pipe inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank,
the sediment would never drain out.
I have never drained a water heater either. Heard it is good for them,but
never did . Last house I lived in for 35 years and had to replace the
heater one time due to a leak. Bought this house about 10 years ago with an
electric heater and never touched it either.
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:34:13 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
The 6 inches is on the OUTER SHELL of the heater. It's probably 1 to 2
inches above the bottom on the actual tank (inside that shell). Most of
the crud will come out, but not all of it. If you drain the tank, then
turn on the cold water while the drain valve is still open, more crud
will come out.
If you live in an area where there is excessive lime (calcium) in the
water, you may never get it all out, especially if you have not drained
it in years.
Not only does this prolong the life of the heater, but it saves energy.
A gas heater has the flame under the tank. If there is 6" of crud in the
bottom of the tank, you're heating that crud, not the water. But soem of
the heat will transfer thru the crud and eventually heat the water. But
a lot of the heat is wasted and goes up the chimney.
I once saw a water heater that was half filled with lime. I'm not
exaggerating either. After the heater was replaced, the guy took off the
shell, then sawed the tank in half. A 5ft tall tank had over 2 feet of
lime in it. It was an elec, heater. The bottom element never touched
water and was all twisted and deformed (and electrically dead) from
operating in that lime. They could not even take one shower anymore
before the hot water ran out.
I've found that it's a good idea to drain the
sediment once a year or so. However, doing so
does not train the WH to do it by itself. You
have to do it for the WH.
Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold
Splendid! How did you train it periodically to
As to draining. The drain valve is generally
about two inches from the bottom of the tank.
They often have garden hose thread. You may
wish to run a hose from the WH to a drain.
The valves some times stick closed, as few
people drain them as needed.
I didn't have to train it, it came pre-trained. I think that's a
function of the type of water heater it is. Costs me almost nothing to
use it because it's set to only heat water during off peaks times.
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