Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated" button, that is screwed to the door frame. Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween :) I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.
Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ? I had seen some comments on an electronics forum about how you might contruct one - but was curious if any retail versions existed ?
*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.
Neon ?
I've modified buttons putting LEDs in. So far the new ones fail because the plastics breaks apart cheap junk. Need to find some better buttons. It might take a bit of talent to find a small led and figure out what size resistor to use, and cram everything in there. These plastic models I used had sun uv damage. Obviously need transparent buttons or housings. I don't even remember what voltage, 24 vac ? I'll do the math later.
Greg
AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.
Perce
He said LED, not neon!!!!
I think that he was referring to what John said.
rather than light the button why not light the area around the button area? say build it so it lights the lock too.....
use the power of the bell circuit, and diodes are cheap, under a buck or two and available at radio shack.
one of my favorite purchases is a touch pad door lock, push any button turns the lights for the buttons, push my choosen code and the door unlocks. It has a key too, although I havent used it in over a year.
Best 100 buck purchase in years, no fumbling for keys:
geezI never had a liighted buttons bulb burn out.
Your transformer voltage may be too high
The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch contacts and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and the solenoid coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed. When the button is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making it ring. ^_^
TDD
I think you just have good luck or a well designed unit.
Greg
Your using way too much common sense.
I never thought of using a side light, but since I have problems, might give it a try. You can put a diode in series with an led to limit dissipation. A value of
1 k to 5k ohms is also needed in series, but needs to be pretty big as it gets hot. I got long led strip, and each led has it's own resistor, but very small in physical size. I want to check temperatures. It designed for 12 volts dc. One led at 5-10 ma is plenty bright.I need to get a touch lock.
Greg
90 volts dc. 63 vac will fire the lamp. Temperature and external light probably affect voltages. Trouble with most indicators, including led, they try to get too much brightness, shortening life.
Greg
I don't think I've ever had a button burn out either. I'm on my second button and the house is 34 years old, but I think the house came with an unlighted button, so I changed that almost right away, and after 15 or 20 years, the new button got so weathered the light didn't show through. (Or maybe it burnt out but it was still after 15 or 20 years.)
I bought the 2nd button at Home Depot. It's just like the first one, pretty much the cheapest lit button that they sell, other than the round one that goes almost entirely in the hole. (This is a black plastic rectangle which sits on top of the wood, with a metal cover that wraps around the top, front, and bottom, with a white or cream colored plastic button in the middle**.) . When I put in a doorbell in the basement, in parallel, I had to put in a bigger transformer, so I got either 16 or 18v (whichever the bigger doorbell transformer is) from Home Depot. In other words nothing special.
The OP's voltage may be too high. Maybe the previous owner didn't use a standard doorbell transformer. Or maybe it's broken.
**Actually all the buttons by the same maker are probably of the same quality, just the cases are different. I know in 1967 when my car compass didn't work, I wrote to Airguide, I think the name is, and asked if I bought a more expensive compass would it work better? And they wrote back, "No. All the compasses are the same. Only the cases are different."*Thanks TDD. I keep thinking those small bulbs in the buttons are neon.
Precisely.
Perce
neon bulbs even in continious service last nearly forever....
Um, 63VAC has ~90V peaks. He was right, NE-2s "take at least 90 volts to fire". Yes, you are also right, in that it is temperature and (interestingly) external light dependant. The problem is that to save a fraction of a cent, they're built like crap. I've never had a bulb fail before the switch, though. I just had one go after less than a year (plastic button broke, exposing the bulb).
I see gear older than me with a sad little neon pilot light barely flickering but it's lit. ^_^
TDD
If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted doorbell.
To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire. Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there will be a wiring diagram on the package.
It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many times.
Greg
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