Doorbell Continuously rings- (but not a short)

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My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.
I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:
As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.
In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)
I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.
The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.
Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?
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On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:

Maybe you got a lighted button?
Just get a button that is nothing but a switch
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On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo  wrote:

on broke.

ithout the actual button being pressed.

her)

ond button.

That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic, but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.
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On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:16:20 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

tton broke.

without the actual button being pressed.

other)

econd button.

Thanks Philo and Trader... the new buttons are lighted- nowhere on the net did that detail come up! I'll post later when I try a new one.
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trader_4 wrote:

There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small light bulb. Latter one will work OK.
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On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:20:13 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:

Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell. LED draws very little current.
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trader_4 wrote:

Drawing more current so solenoid can't activate. LED current draw is very small. I went thru same experiment with our rotary gong type church bell chime.
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On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:53:29 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:

The problem is not that the solenoid can't activate. He said the problem is that the chime activates as soon as he connects the pushbutton, without the button being pushed. That indicates the light is causing too much current to flow when the switch is open. The bulb or LED is in series with the switch. I would think a bulb is going to use more current to generate light than an LED.
And what you posted makes no sense anyway. When you push the button the bulb is bypassed, ie shorted across and it's out of the circuit. It momentarily goes out. The solenoid then gets full current, no?
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philo wrote:

+1.
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On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 10:30:20 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

That sounds like a good argument, but try this. Lighted buttons used to work. They were all real small light bulbs. Something changed. Ah, the new design, used on some, uses an LED. Those are the one the doorbells weren't designed for.
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On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:52:55 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:

Perhaps the OP can tell us if the old button was lighted or not. And if the new one is a bulb type or LED. From what I see the low cost ones, less than $10 don't say what they are and are probably bulb type. The more expensive ones are the only ones I see that say LED type.
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replying to micky, Ranger wrote: I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED. The new button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?
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Ranger-
I missed the previous message.
I would not expect it to make any difference, but you might swap the wires to the button to be sure.
If that does not correct the problem but disconnecting the button stops the ringing, the LED's current limiting resistor has too low a resistance for that doorbell.
Fred
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On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 13:06:24 -0400, Fred McKenzie wrote:

That is because it was posted over *two years ago* on that silly homeownershub web forum. Those people don't know how to read DATES!
Made me wonder if "Ranger's" doorbell has been ringing all those years.
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On Sunday, July 31, 2016 at 1:30:47 PM UTC-4, Sam Hill wrote:

when i was 11 or 12 years old our doorbell started ringing at odd times with no one at the door. it was driving my grandma nuts.
i happened to be in the basement when it rang. the water heater turned on and the gas line moved ding dong......
the water heater had been replced just before this, the gas line touched the door bell wire and shorted it out.
i was very proud of my finding and fixing it, put a wood shim too keep the gas line fine from contacting the wire, and taped up the wires so it could never happen again.....
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wrote:

I see the problem as much more that they don't know how to quote. This is a rare case in which, if you include the subject line -- and I think posts should make sense without reading subject line - the post is understandable.. But he said "I am having the same problem" without saying what the problem is. Bad habit.

Sometimes answering old posts as they do so often is ridiculous, but here the poster has the problem now.

You should have been proud.
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On Sunday, July 31, 2016 at 12:30:47 PM UTC-5, Sam Hill wrote:

are not the sharpest knives in the drawer. They can ask some of the silliest questions and many seem to be incapable of doing any type of research on their own.
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button broke.

contact- without the actual button being pressed.

each other)

with second button.

Has to be a short somewhere. Solenoid/bell won't ring if it's an open circuit.
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On Thursday, June 19, 2014 2:32:31 PM UTC-4, Guv Bob wrote:

A lighted pushbutton is not an open circuit. The light completes the circuit.
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wrote:

button get a simple non-lighted button. I'm assuming this is an electronic chime - only the RIGHT lighted button will work.
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