Door stops

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At church, all the doors are self closing. Sometimes it's just not convenient, such as when we're moving tables and chairs.
Someone bought a bunch of rubber door stops, which work sometimes, on some doors. But, not a really satisfactory answer.
I've been considering making some out of wood. Do those need a rubber edge? Any particular design, like "really shallow angle" or wisdom like that?
--
Christopher A. Young
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Are the doors made of wood? Wood against wood in the situation you describe could be damaging to the doors. Why are the rubber wedges unsatisfactory? Do they "drift" to the closed position bcause the floor surface below is too shiny? If so, a bit of sandpaper under them?
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Are the doors made of wood? SM: Yes, finished wood. Fire rated, too.
Wood against wood in the situation you describe could be damaging to the doors. SM: Why is that?
Why are the rubber wedges unsatisfactory? SM: Well, with the tile or smooth floors, the doors don't stay open. The rubber wedges get slick. They also collapse, and get soft.
Do they "drift" to the closed position bcause the floor surface below is too shiny? If so, a bit of sandpaper under them? SM: That's an idea, but I suspect that would sand the floor (Daniel san!) and cause more problems.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've seen doorstops in commercial buildings that have one part fastened to the floor behind the door and a hook at the bottom back of the door, IIRC....the thingy fastened to the floor flips up with your foot and hangs onto the hook on the back of the door.
Or glue a small patch of something to the floor at the spot the doorstop has to be placed? Or remove wax from flooring at the right spot?
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

I can imagine folk tapping them hard with their foot to firmly wedge them under the door and crush/ dent the timber.

Ahh. Too soft a wedge? Need a different type rubber/ plastic?

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Clot wrote:

Bungee cord from the panic bar to an eyebolt on the wall behind the open position? Some old truck brake drums with rubber on the bottom? (They make great sign bases, too.) The doors I need to prop generally have shipping containers close enough to kick into place to act as a stop. Also check your closers- some of them have a detent at the full-open position. I've also seen clips you can drop over the folding arm at the hinge point, if yours have such an arm.
-- aem sends...
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The brake rotors would do more damage. But, I like the idea about the hold open arms. I'll have to look at the hold open arms, and see if I can make something for those.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

What kind of floor - carpet? vinyl?
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We have several different floors. Some are very smooth carpet, and some like the kitchen are some kind of plastic. Linoleum, formica, or something.
Someone took to wedging the top of a couple of the doors, between the door and the jamb. I suspect that's going to tear the life out of the hinges.
Wish we could make a hook and loop like you use to keep a storm door closed. Can't drill the fire doors, and can't make permanant hold opens (fire and insurance regs).
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Try coating the bottom of the rubber stops with a thin layer of polyurethane caulk. It'll give it a "stickier" surface. Glue a thin layer of hard stiff plastic or metal to the top. What you need is the bottom to grab, and the top to slide, which will increase the pressure downward.
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Bob F wrote:

I agree. If the rubber wedge is pliable, it might be possible to serrate the base with a craft knife, i.e. little slots in the base that are at right angles to the anticipated direction of slippage.
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Not sure I've heard of that type of caulk.
The folks at church aren't organized enough to keep one side down, other side up. They will try anything, which is part of the reason we're having trouble, I guess. I've also seen three ring binders used as door wedges.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Make a wedge with a round top and a flat bottom, so they have no choice. Of course, if the top is hard and slippery, and the bottom is rubbery, they'll figure it out when it just doesn't work the wrong way.
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On Tue, 6 Oct 2009 20:48:18 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

That's ridiculous. What are the odds people will die in the fire, and if you do lose a few, that's the risk they take. Don't the members know people have to have the doors open to move things.

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I'd think that if the building was on fire, people would have the sense to exit, instead of sit in class rooms with the door open. The regs prohibit sleeping or staying over night in the building. I'm sure in case of regional or national emergency, those might be quietly ignored if we were housing refugees. But, you'd think people would know to keep the door closed when sleeping.
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Had the same problem at my work place... made a "door jack" and it works beautifully:
Make a wooden wedge, same dimensions as you would buy. Drill a hole downward through the "fat" side of the wedge. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a small diameter carriage bolt, and a "pronged tee nut" (Google Image search) and a wing nut that fit the diameter of the carriage bolt. The carriage bolt must be a small enough diameter to fit into the drilled hole. Assemble as follows: pronged tee nut, prongs facing up, drive the prongs into your wooden wedge, centered on the hole you drilled. Thread carriage bolt all the way into the pronged tee nut so that an inch or so is exposed on the other side of the hole at the top of the wedge. Attach the wing nut to the other side of the carriage bolt. The wing nut needs to become "part" of the assembly... you can superglue it, or you can damage the threads of the bolt... or you can solder it.... or you can use a drop of LocTite... its up to you. How to use: place the wedge snug under the open door, give the wing nut a couple twists for increase the angle of the wedge and you are in business. Carriage bolts are nice due to the smooth rounded top that won't gouge the flooring. If you are using on vinyl flooring, you may want a dab of silicone caulking for further protection between the bolt head and the floor. (dab the caulk on the bolt head and let it dry a day before you actually use it)
Make a dozen of them, cost will be about a buck a piece, maybe even two bucks. Leave them in the janitor closet for future generations..
Good luck!

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Change the arm on the door closer to a hold-open model. If it is a fire door then get the fire door rated ones. (they have a fusible link) Another option is to install the magnetic hold opens that are tied in with the fire alarm /smoke detector / heat sensor.
If you look at the set-ups they have in the hospital you can see samples.
And wedging anything between the door and the jam will rip the snot out of then hinges. BTW you can make penetrations on fire doors *IF* you do so within the design parameters of the door.
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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Have you considered (expensive, I know) magnetic catches for the backs of fire doors? I've seen these in hotels and schools where the magnets release when the fire alarm goes off, so the doors can stay open as you want, but will shut in the event of a fire/emergency.
On Oct 6, 8:48pm, "Stormin Mormon"

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Stormin Mormon wrote:

For, like, $2.98 you can get a door locker gizmo. Two parts: One part attaches to the top of the door and looks like the thing that keeps the door from banging against the wall. The other part attaches to the wall and grabs the other dohicky.
Here's one: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId8942-1277-MPB228&lpage=none
Still, if you're going to create one from scratch, here're a couple of ideas:
http://images.smarter.com/blogs/guests/Ruby%20Slippers%20Door%20Stop.bmp
http://scooterdiesel.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/doorstop_1.jpg
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I'd have to check with the powers that be. It's my understanding that we're not allowed to have any permanant hold open devices. Wish we could.
I like the one that looks like Dorothy under the Door. Would that be Door-othy?
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Christopher A. Young
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