Jerrod, it's about time someone injected some common sense into this thread.
So many posters never bother to check the links, but just go one repeating what they have known for years and have not kept up with what is happening. If they had checked the link way back at the beginning of this thread they would have seen a different WD-40 than what they have been referencing.
To really catch up one might go to
Charlie
dirt and gunk. I always use the silicone sprays for
reason as stated by Steve
We ain't talkin bout your grampa's WD-40 here, there are 5 new formulations of WD-40.
The WD-40® SPECIALIST? WATER RESISTANT SILICONE LUBRICANT looks like a good choice for locks.
WD-40® SPECIALIST? WATER RESISTANT SILICONE LUBRICANT safely lubricates, waterproofs and protects metal and non-metal surfaces, including rubber, plastic and vinyl better than leading competitors. It dries fast and leaves a clear, non-staining film that doesn?t stick or make a mess, so it won?t attract dirt. Effective in a temperature range from from -100°F to 500°F, it's ideal for use on cables, pulleys, guide rails, valves, linkages, hinges, locks and more, and is
50-state VOC compliant.
At one time I installed and serviced automatic doors and commercial store fronts. I've also repaired a lot of interior doors and locks of all kinds. The one lubricant I've found that works for everything on the type of things that need lubrication on doors is industrial chain lube. It contains molybdenum disulphide along with a thick oil that stays put resisting moisture but will also penetrate into tight clearances. I've use it on all sorts of locks and mechanisms without a problem and it lasts a very long time.
Steve said to use wd40 . Does anybody read the above link ???
Any lube should be a temporary fix. If it does not work, replace. I usually would use CRC 2-26 .
Greg
Should be OK on hinges, but I'd never spray such into a keyhole, or latch bolt.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
At one time I installed and serviced automatic doors and commercial store fronts. I've also repaired a lot of interior doors and locks of all kinds. The one lubricant I've found that works for everything on the type of things that need lubrication on doors is industrial chain lube. It contains molybdenum disulphide along with a thick oil that stays put resisting moisture but will also penetrate into tight clearances. I've use it on all sorts of locks and mechanisms without a problem and it lasts a very long time.
Change the lock. $14 &10 minutes.
By golly it works and keeps on working especially on commercial outside doors that get pounded by rain from time to time. It's especially good for the lock mechanism inside hollow aluminum doors in store fronts. ^_^
TDD
No, you are using WD-40 SPECIALIST, not WD-40. They are two different things and have two different purposes.
Damn, I'll have to let Gramps know about those. But when you're calling bullshit, perhaps it would be wise to elaborate about the WD40 "Specialist" blends instead of the regular WD40 which is most commonly used and fits the bad description many indicated. BTW, they went with "Specialist" blend because even they knew the regular the blend didn't live up to the task.
New keyway? Reversed, left to right, of the KW1 keyway I know and love.
Are you totally sure Dottie has a key in knob lock with the new standard door prep? And do you know how many relatives, cleaners, etc, have keys? Is she in apartment building which is master keyed? Or, the sticky lock may be a deadbolt?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Change the lock. $14 &10 minutes.
Moly is good stuff. I've got a can of chain lube that I bought, many years ago. I havn't ever tried it on locks. Maybe the new formulation is better. The stuff I got was black, and sticky. I see you wrote "along with a thick oil".
Really? The OP said they used "wd-40". And not some "specialist" product (lets put actual stuff that has been around forever in a can and call it "wd-40 specialist"). I would say the "specialist" line is them finally admitting how worthless their "use this on everything" wd-40 is.
You know that a lube for chains must be able to get into the tight spots in the rollers. It doesn't take more than a tiny amount of the stuff sprayed on the key and run in and out of the lock multiple times to get enough into the lock itself. I wipe the key off and run it in and out several times again. If the lock is real sticky, I may spray a "tiny" amount into the lock. On hollow aluminum doors, there is usually a spring loaded pin for the top pivot and I'll remove the door so I can properly lube the top and bottom pivots and vertical locking rods if the door has any. You can always pick up a can for around $5.00 at most auto parts stores or industrial supply houses. Try it yourself and let me know how it works for you.
TDD
I must disagree. In sufficient quantity surely it would be as effective as water.
If you asked me what kind of vehicle I drive, an accurate answer would be Toyota.
I could also say Toyota Tundra.
Or I could say Toyota Tundra 4x4.
They would all be accurate answers.
Get it?
All good points!
In fact, Dottie never said it was a door on her dwelling.
Maybe it's the door on her '68 Olds Delmont?
Or maybe she drives a Kenworth?
Won't know for a while. Might be able to find my can of spray, that's burried behind clutter. Might buy a newer spray can, some day. Won't know for a while. I'd have to find a lock to spray, and then check it in a few days or weeks.
I could imagine using the stuff on hinge pins (not anything people touch, and could tolerate some sluggish lube). Locks, well, still unconvinced.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
You know that a lube for chains must be able to get into the tight spots in the rollers. It doesn't take more than a tiny amount of the stuff sprayed on the key and run in and out of the lock multiple times to get enough into the lock itself. I wipe the key off and run it in and out several times again. If the lock is real sticky, I may spray a "tiny" amount into the lock. On hollow aluminum doors, there is usually a spring loaded pin for the top pivot and I'll remove the door so I can properly lube the top and bottom pivots and vertical locking rods if the door has any. You can always pick up a can for around $5.00 at most auto parts stores or industrial supply houses. Try it yourself and let me know how it works for you.
TDD
The several I've seen, have been. Uh, breathakingly beautiful.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Nor did she say the lock was on a chastity belt. Scantly clad women doing home repair on the door are a sight to see.
So did you put a little WD-40 on your deadbolt and attempt to penetrate the striker plate?
If we plan to venture through a safari and I asked what type of vehicle you had, simply answering "Toyota" wouldn't work. You see, a Toyota Camry wouldn't handle the rough terrain of a safari but your Tundra most likely would. Obviously, the point is clear. The "specific" product is for the "specific" task.
Get it?
You make a bad detective, Joe.
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