Door "Desktop"

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Another thing, if your going to put laminate on PB, do both sides.
In any case, you will need to finish both sides of PB, or it will absorb water and warp. A double layer of 3/4" PB (particle board) or ply with laminate on all sides, makes for a very good desk top.
In fact, with a double layer of 19mm (3/4" 13plies) baltic birch hardwood plywood, a laminate top, or stain and hard poly finish would make a hell of a desktop. You could just round over the edges, and leave the interior plies edges exposed. A sheet of tempered polished glass is common on fancy wood desks/tables for a really durable finish.
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You can usually get away with just sealing the underside (even shellac).

Laminate on two layers of MDF (or one layer with a partial skirt) is even awesomer ;-) It's heavier, so it stays put better, and much better machinable, so you can get a lot more fancy with edges - curves, profiles, etc. Even paints well.

I'd never waste plywood that expensive under a laminate or otherwise opaque surface finish. Except if I needed really light weight.
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I used peel-and-stick floor tile.
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wrote:

Great idea if I go with the door.
Thanks, Wayne
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pickup miscut or other type mistake counter tops for short money.
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Yes, both Home Depot and Lowes. I didn't realize I could get a laminate top so cheap. Time to look before I buy the door!
Thanks, Wayne
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Surprised not one suggestion for solid core door.
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 05:56:57 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

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I suggested that, but "plain" solid core doors are difficult to come by these days. And expensive when you do find them.
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On 27 Feb 2004 18:54:45 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@nortelnetworks.com (Chris Lewis) wrote:

Yeah, that's why I didn't suggest it either. And why I didn't use one.
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I thought of that, but thought the cost might be more than I care to spend. I'm not scrimping on the filing cabinets; they will be top commercial quality. However, this arrangement isn't really permanent and I don't expect to use the top more than a year or so. An expensive door or countertop wouldn't make sense.
Wayne
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If you check around you should be able to fine a piece of counter top at a reasonable price. My current, temporary, (well for the last 8 years anyway!), computer desk is two, two drawer Hon file cabinets and a six foot piece of counter top. I built a pencil/crap drawer out of some scrap for it too. The counter top came from one of the home centers in town, it has a chip in it some where so I got it for $10. The drawer and hardware was stuff I had laying around so really no money in it to speak of. The computer CPU sits on the floor, I have a riser for the monitor so the base of it sits about six inches off the desk top.
I have been threatening to build some real cabinets and desk for the office, but it is pretty low on the "list"! The Mrs. has the project a bit higher on her list, so I may have to get to it in the next decade! Greg
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I'm going out looking tomorrow. At this point it sounds like a "seconds" countertop is a much better choice than the door for several reasons; probably cheaper, already finished with laminate, a better writing surface, and probably sturdier.
I'll be moving in a year and will buy a "real" desk then. I will still use the filing cabinets, but the countertop will probably be relegated to the garage or shed.
Wayne
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Good point. I'll look.
Thanks, Wayne
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I have that exact setup. I'm using a hollow-core interior door. It's okay except that I have my computer on it with two monitors and it's sagging ever so slightly in the middle! Other than that, it's fine.
I think the height for interior doors is all about the same, but the width varies. Choose your width based on what you plan to do. I got one that's wide enough for my computer with about 10-12 inches to spare. My keyboard is in a special thing I attached "under" the door/desktop -- a pull-out keyboard tray.
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Suzie-Q wrote:

I don't know your full setup, but if you set the filing cabinets at less than the full width (length? height?) of the door it probably wouldn't sag. It they were set down about 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart it should take care of it, and still leave plenty of room between them.
Bill Gill
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My thought, too. I'm using legal size files, so the support width is increased by a few inches. I certainly don't need more than 30-36 inches of "kneehole" space. Also, my weight load is probably less than typical. I have a flatscreen monitor which is very light, as is the scanner and inkjet printer. The CPU will be on an area directly above one of the filing cabinets.
Wayne
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One with a flat surface. Des
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On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 05:49:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

If you have the $$, check out 'benchtops', too. That's what I had at work spanning two 2-drawer filing cabinets. It was like a big butcher-block -- about 1.25" thick, finished, and sturdy. I don't remember the cost -- I didn't buy it.
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The door you find at a yard sale for $2
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They're very nice, but frighteningly expensive. A benchtop slab will run you at least $150 or more.
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