Door "Desktop"

"just me" wrote in news:zxo%b.126447$jk2.539322@attbi_s53:

Good point. I'll look.

Thanks, Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright
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Optical mice. Mine works fine, even though I have to vacuum the dust off the mouse pad.

Reply to
John Hines

You want to put a brace across the back side. Take a 1x4 and glue and screw it to the back edge of the desk surface, in a "L" kind of shape. Think of a kitchen countertop w/ back splash that is upside down.

You won't notice it, but it will add a huge amount of stiffness to the surface.

Otherwise, I've found that 2 pieces of particle board need to be laminated together to help prevent sagging. I've had reasonably good luck when I've glued up my shelfs.

Reply to
John Hines

Reply to
nospambob

I don't know your full setup, but if you set the filing cabinets at less than the full width (length? height?) of the door it probably wouldn't sag. It they were set down about 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart it should take care of it, and still leave plenty of room between them.

Bill Gill

Reply to
Bill

John Hines wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

That's a good idea. Should make quite a difference.

Thanks, Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

According to Wayne Boatwright :

I'm partial to making "face frames" of 2x. Building up a rectangle of 2x4s or 2x3s, with the lumber laid flat.

I built a "wine making room" bench this way. Single shelf with 2x3 frame under it near the floor, of laminate over plywood, inset into 2x3 uprights. "face frame" perched on the uprights, with a manufacturing "second" countertop as a work surface.

I routinely store 3-4 full carboys in it (50 pounds apiece), zero sag. I could probably double that.

The computer desk is a 2x4 hanger board mounted to the wall, a longitudinal stringer about 3" back from the front edge of where the counter front would be, and a couple of 2x4 braces fastened to the hanger board under the stringer. 2x4 legs on the outboard end of the braces.

Then, drop counter on top. Done.

Design feature: buy countertop with a short backsplash. Mount countertop

3" away from wall. Instant cable raceway. Screw powerbars to underside of frame to supply equipment.
Reply to
Chris Lewis

Another thing, if your going to put laminate on PB, do both sides.

In any case, you will need to finish both sides of PB, or it will absorb water and warp. A double layer of 3/4" PB (particle board) or ply with laminate on all sides, makes for a very good desk top.

In fact, with a double layer of 19mm (3/4" 13plies) baltic birch hardwood plywood, a laminate top, or stain and hard poly finish would make a hell of a desktop. You could just round over the edges, and leave the interior plies edges exposed. A sheet of tempered polished glass is common on fancy wood desks/tables for a really durable finish.

Reply to
John Hines

Ouch?

Reply to
just me

According to John Hines :

You can usually get away with just sealing the underside (even shellac).

Laminate on two layers of MDF (or one layer with a partial skirt) is even awesomer ;-) It's heavier, so it stays put better, and much better machinable, so you can get a lot more fancy with edges - curves, profiles, etc. Even paints well.

I'd never waste plywood that expensive under a laminate or otherwise opaque surface finish. Except if I needed really light weight.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

According to snipped-for-privacy@vcoms.net :

I suggested that, but "plain" solid core doors are difficult to come by these days. And expensive when you do find them.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

Yeah, that's why I didn't suggest it either. And why I didn't use one.

Reply to
Tom Miller

snipped-for-privacy@nortelnetworks.com (Chris Lewis) wrote in news:c1nl0r$1l15ls$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-118425.news.uni-berlin.de:

I like that idea! Nice to get those cables out of the way, yet still handy for any changes.

Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

Bill wrote in news:kiI%b.6399$6u3.1712 @newssvr23.news.prodigy.com:

My thought, too. I'm using legal size files, so the support width is increased by a few inches. I certainly don't need more than 30-36 inches of "kneehole" space. Also, my weight load is probably less than typical. I have a flatscreen monitor which is very light, as is the scanner and inkjet printer. The CPU will be on an area directly above one of the filing cabinets.

Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

" snipped-for-privacy@vcoms.net" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I thought of that, but thought the cost might be more than I care to spend. I'm not scrimping on the filing cabinets; they will be top commercial quality. However, this arrangement isn't really permanent and I don't expect to use the top more than a year or so. An expensive door or countertop wouldn't make sense.

Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

If you check around you should be able to fine a piece of counter top at a reasonable price. My current, temporary, (well for the last 8 years anyway!), computer desk is two, two drawer Hon file cabinets and a six foot piece of counter top. I built a pencil/crap drawer out of some scrap for it too. The counter top came from one of the home centers in town, it has a chip in it some where so I got it for $10. The drawer and hardware was stuff I had laying around so really no money in it to speak of. The computer CPU sits on the floor, I have a riser for the monitor so the base of it sits about six inches off the desk top.

I have been threatening to build some real cabinets and desk for the office, but it is pretty low on the "list"! The Mrs. has the project a bit higher on her list, so I may have to get to it in the next decade! Greg

Reply to
Greg O

"Greg O" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:

I'm going out looking tomorrow. At this point it sounds like a "seconds" countertop is a much better choice than the door for several reasons; probably cheaper, already finished with laminate, a better writing surface, and probably sturdier.

I'll be moving in a year and will buy a "real" desk then. I will still use the filing cabinets, but the countertop will probably be relegated to the garage or shed.

Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

If you have the $$, check out 'benchtops', too. That's what I had at work spanning two 2-drawer filing cabinets. It was like a big butcher-block -- about 1.25" thick, finished, and sturdy. I don't remember the cost -- I didn't buy it.

Reply to
Frogleg

The door you find at a yard sale for $2

Reply to
Nick Hull

According to Frogleg :

They're very nice, but frighteningly expensive. A benchtop slab will run you at least $150 or more.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

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