That, undoubtedly was the costing guys who figure out they could shorten
them by an inch or so and thus make then a penny cheaper...
On the sparkplug clearance and Mopar...the '69 Charger w/ "only" the 383
couldn't replace #8 w/ jacking the engine and loosening tranny mounts to
let it move...I've no idea what interference issues there were with the
440 or the 426 hemi. I don't recall which basic blocks were which...
I liked the Mopar then excepting...they all (at least any I ever had)
tended to have mysterious electrical "issues". The aforementioned
Charger would have intermittent high voltage spikes that would peg every
gauge and headlights go _VERY_ bright...would last for 2-3 seconds and
gradually return to normal. Replacing regulators never completely
resolved it. Extremely scary at night when one is afraid the headlamps
are going to burn out and leave you in the total darkness...
Can name a litany of others, as well, but it was a tremendous
interstate-cruising vehicle plus they just looked "kewl"... :) Shoulda'
had sense to kept it but couldn't afford to just keep a collector
vehicle back then as a young 'un fresh out of school...
The other "joy" wasn't really Chrysler's fault but the Holley 4-bbl had
a bunch of lead plugs to seal machining access holes. After a day on
interstate at temperature, next morning about half of 'em could be
counted on to be seeping. Kept a small ball peen hammer specifically
for the purpose of reseating them before starting next day's journey.
Didn't get hot enough in just day-to-day driving; only long trips...
All in all, the current vehicles are _much_ better of all makes...last
Mopar was '99 300M which was bought as was the Charger w/ the express
thought of being interstate cruiser. Similar in that were quite nice
for the purpose but both having been ordered with "sports" suspension
were bone-rattlers on the dirt roads we live on so combined with it's
extremely low ground clearance which made it useless for mud ended up
trading the 300 not long after we got back to the farm for an Enclave w/
the AWD and large rims for wife's "mud car". Turns out it's also pretty
handy as a harvest-time vehicle for taking to the field and all--she
likes it much better than the 4x4's given her height challenge...
I don't remember ever having a problem with the plugs on the mopars -
and the 440 would be identical to the 383 as it shared basic block and
head design - and on a Memi the plugs come out the top and center of
the heads - so definitely no problem. The 428 Mustang on the other
hand - - - . And the V8 Monza.
It was a regulator problem and every Mopar mechanic knew to replace
the standard regulator with either the "heavy duty" or the electronic
The original was the Echlin/Napa VR32 style, while the heavy duty was
the VR34, or the externally adjustable Heavy Duty VR35
That was only one of the many problems with the Holley - but Chrysler
used Carters on more vehicles than Holleys. Most Holleys on Mopars
were "hot-rod upgrades" The Carter AVS was standard on both the 383
and 440 in '69 In 1970 Chrysler switched to the Carther Thermoquad.
The Carter AFB was used in 1966.
SOME holleys were used on single quad 383s and 440s, but at least in
Canada they were rare. Most dual quads were Holley 4160s.
On 12/31/2014 3:02 PM, email@example.com wrote:
All I know is what I experienced...and it wouldn't make it out of the
hole w/o moving the block...
Not _EVERY_ one, apparently... :) Altho I did finally swap out an
electronic aftermarket one myself--no longer recall which, specifically.
The worst actual problem on that particular one was when it was wet
outside, somewhere there was a leak that got in and the left turn signal
could create a dead short. I could always recognize it quickly enough
to prevent a major damage but wife managed to burn the whole wiring
harness out twice. Dealer replaced everything they could get to but
never did actually cure the problem...
Perhaps but the single quad Holley is what came straight from the
factory on this one...we ordered it specifically but nothing specified
on a particular carb model that I recall...primarily I got the stiffer
suspension and the manual lift/tilt driver seat for the interstate
driving we intended doing when we bought it. First (and one of only
two) absolutely new first-delivery vehicle ever bought.
The second was a forced purchase when on a time-critical trip and had an
engine failure owing to Quaker State in '84 350 Chevy in an Olds '88.
With the then-higher temp and sorry anti-smog control, the stuff clogged
the return weeps and cause mains failures at under 50K. Happened just
on the way between TN and KS with a deadline. Purchased a new '88 off
the lot that happened to also have a "touring" suspension and was a
_very_ nice vehicle that had >350K mi on when daughter finally traded it...
Drug the '84 home after got back home from the dealership and rebuilt it
and kids used it for quite a long time as well. Never again QS, however...
firstname.lastname@example.org posted for all of us...
Ah yes I remember those numbers.
I liked NAPA ignition parts back then because they still used the brass
terminals in the distributer cap and the points and caps would never be a
problem. IIRC correctly there was a co named Standard whose parts weren't
Hey Claire was the Champion plugs stock # RJ 45 for most Chrysler's?
I've not noticed that at the NAPA here...I just bought a set of (I think
Anco?) refills last month...
Do almost all parts there and I don't see much difference. I've never
bought tools thru NAPA or any other parts place, though, to speak of,
anyway, altho do have a couple S-K and Proto sets that came from there
50 yr or so ago. But, the change in what is available generally isn't
just NAPA, it's almost universal so can't really fault them for trying
to remain competitive.
For the comment on dealer-priced OEM parts -- I've never found any such
pricing to be even _close_ to being true...OEM parts are, ime,
exorbitantly priced at dealerships. You can sometimes find them online
for reasonable cost but I can't think of last time I've bought GM local
if it wasn't an unavailable part otherwise...other than the "quick-lube"
specials for their oil filters that are reasonable with the deal in the
shop here, anyway. But the air filters are at least 50% higher plus the
labor may run one for the Buick to $100 installed if let 'em...
| For the comment on dealer-priced OEM parts -- I've never found any such
| pricing to be even _close_ to being true...OEM parts are, ime,
| exorbitantly priced at dealerships.
For what it's worth....
I know that Toyota parts have always included the
mechanic's markup of 66% when buying directly, which
I find very sleazy. (If a mechanic pays $60 they add
$40 as a hidden labor cost. Toyota would charge me
$100 if I buy directly from them.)
I don't know if all dealers are like that. I thought it
was a relatively new trick. But I learned something
else recently: I've often gone to AutoZone in the past.
There are several near me. But last year I went there
for a muffler/tailpipe assembly for my pickup. There
was a problem with it so I took it back. In the meantime
I'd bought the exact same thing at a local, independent
parts store. The indy store charged me about $80.
AutoZone had charged me about $150. Both were the
same after-market brand! So it seems that AutoZone
is charging dealer prices for after-market parts. That
possibility had never occurred to me. I'd just assumed
they were the cheap option.
Then you've got a sleazy Toyota dealer.
Most dealers charge labour "by the book" and sell their parts at or
below MSRP. You cannot buy parts directly from Toyota USA or Toyota
I say at or below MSRP because if you have a good relationship with
your counterman (and the dealer as a whole) they will often sell you
parts at a discount, like they sell to independent garages.
I know. I was a Toyota dealer service manager for 10 years.
Just like ASS U MEing you always get a good deal at Walmart or Costco.
Or any other "big box discounter"
They have to pay for their expensive advertizing some way- - - .
email@example.com posted for all of us...
I agree with this. Most dealers offer discounts. I don't know Toyotas
pricing structure but they have to stay in business too. Every business buys
wholesale and sells "retail"
Also the Toyota dealer I go to doesn't charge for small shit like r&r
refills, bulbs, etc. Then again I throw them the money maker jobs and they
even discount my labor rate.
Exactly how I operated as Service Manager when I was at the Toyota
dealership. Why make a work order for a 5 minute job when it costs (at
the time, 10 years ago, before computerized work orders) $25 to
process a work order, including the cost of the pre-printed form -
through to final disposal/archiving from the Cardex file.
firstname.lastname@example.org posted for all of us...
Many business' do not realize this. I have worked for some. The gov't is
especially good for this. This is counter productive because the better
people are using work around s and outsmart what should be tracked.
I just bought a 11/2" taiwanese clone of the SK ball-head swivel
ratchet today at Princess Auto for $40.I paid about half that for the
original 3/8" SK back in 1969 or 1970 - when I was working for about
$2 an hour.
The Taiwanese tools are much better than the mainland Chines stuff and
this one appears to be as well made as the original S-K which has
served me very well for over 40 years.
Do S-K and Proto still actually produce their tools in the USA???
Back when it was UAP here in Canada they carried decent stuff. When
NAPA took over UAP we started getting all the cheap stuff. They used
to be a supplier for garages / the trade - now they are just another
"pep boys" clone.
It is still possible to get good stuff from NAPA, but they generally
only carry the cheap crap in store.
Always check a couple places for part prices. Hell I've bought O2
sensors from Amazon for 1/3 the price at O'Reillys (now Murrays.)
$42 vs $150.
As far as dealership OEM, very seldom can they match a parts place.
Though I did buy a intake manifold gasket set at a Chevy dealer that
was only 10 bucks more than the aftermarket equivalent.
Even "body parts" like power window motor assemblies are much cheaper
on the net when you can find them.
The "on the net" guy has a lot less overhead - half the time he
doesn't even have or own the part you buy from him untill you buy it -
and he never sees the part - it is drop shipped from a warehouse
somewhere. Half the time the real good deals, price-whise, are
close-outs - stuff that came off the shelf of some business that
closed down because they could not compete - and often because nobody
would buy product from them the second time due to bad quality and
poor service provided trying to cut costs so they could always sell at
the lowest price.
That's what happened with the first two sets of bearings I bought
on-line - and even the set I eventually got from Rock were obviously
returns or retail shelf items because the one box had been opened and
the packaging and instruction papers were missing - the hub had worn
through the cardboard box in shipping and it was totally covered in
fine cardboard dust stuck to the preservative grease because the
sealed plastic bag it had originally been packaged in was also
"You want first quality oats you have to be willing to pay first
quality price. If you are willing to settle for oats that have already
been through the horse, they come a bit cheaper"
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