Do you use bar oil in your chainsaw?

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Tim and Steph wrote:

It has been a number of years and my memory is nto as good as it used to be, or at least not as good as I remember it was. ;-)
Howver ISTR he used safety glasses instead of a face shield. My MSA respirator fits OK under my face shield.
BTW, it needs new elastic, any ideas where to get replacement?
--

FF



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On 3 Jul 2005 09:02:01 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net wrote:

If you don't mind how it looks, I've used elastic off of an old pair of underwear to replace the elastic on a pair of safety goggles.
Otherwise you can probably get something suitable at a fabric store.
-- "We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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Probably be more of a consideration where they came from than how the look. :)
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Upscale wrote:

Especially if I leave it attached....
--

FF



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I've been reading this thread with great interest. I've used all three types of bar lube (used motor oil, new motor oil, and tackified bar oil) and have cut a lot of wood over the last 30+ years. I never did it professionally, but my Father in law did and I picked his brain too.
My conclusions:
Used motor oil: Pros: Cheap, does the job Cons: Dirty, turns everything black it touches, never washes out. Requires turning up the automatic oiler to a higher level, so you often use a tank of oil quicker than a tank of gas, creating the risk of running the bar dry. Slings off the bar at the nose (which is why the previous) and leaves the actual cutting part of the bar under-lubed. Poorest job of lubing of the three. *May* be carcinogenic. Unless you get enough from oil changes in your own vehicles you have to scrounge it. And, the deal killer for me finally after hundreds of gallons of the stuff, it usually contains enough contaminants that it will plug up the pump, bar or passages at the worst moments.
New motor oil: Pros: Does the job, slightly cheaper than dedicated bar oil. Cleaner than used oil. Clean, doesn't plug anything up and the viscosity can be chosen to work in cold weather. Cons: Slings off the bar so requires turning up the oiler and may under-lube the cutting side of the bar or cause the tank to run dry early. Not significantly cheaper than dedicated bar oil.
Tackified Bar Oil: Pros: Does the best job of lubing the chain - Since I switched there is noticeably less wear on the bars of my saws, even though I am in a sandier and dustier area. Doesn't sling off the bar, so it is still there where you need it. You use less, so it partially offsets the higher cost of new motor oil. Clean, but it does tend to leave "strings" all over the side of the saw. Never seems to plug anything up. Handy, no more messing with a 15 gallon drum of used oil. Cons: Price, slightly more expensive than new (cheap) motor oil, but if bought on sale can be had for essentially the same price. Sticky - coats your gloves, jeans, boots, truck, whatever you spill it on. Doesn't want to come off. Tends to get pretty stiff in cold weather.
Conclusion: For me, after wearing out a number of saws and bars and chains using old motor oil, I decided that paying for the "real stuff" was a good investment. All of the loggers I currently know use it because it lengthens bar and chain life by allowing them to run cooler and with less wear. Cooler chains don't stretch as much and don't require as much maintenance. My experience since switching is that the tackified oil is well worth the price. The only drawback I have found is that it gets so thick in sub-zero (F) weather that you have to thin it to make it pump. Usually under those conditions I just fall back on *new* motor oil. I will never go back to the used stuff again.
Your mileage, as always, may vary.
-- "We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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