The oil itself is not a problem, IMO unless the environment is overwhelmed
Besides.....because oil floats on water, I think I would be more concerned
with any additives and residual contaminents that may come out of
Its not like the 'water table' is a big glass lined tank (like the
Latrobe brewery - 33) all shiny and clean. And I was thinking, where
does all that nasty oil come from in the first place? Down there in the
ground. I say, set it free, let it return home!!!
Works the same in logging. Soft spots logged in the winter when the
ground's frozen, high, sandy stuff with pine in the summer. When the
forest's really dense, an Iron Mule can't find a way to hit the ground for
the roots. The call it "low impact" logging.
Around here, ( a mountainous region and fairly near to the pacific ocean )
one of the biggest problems with logging is the soil erosion and subsequent
sedimention occuring in the the rivers and streams...( salmon spawing
habitat--if you bury them eggs then the little fisheys don't got much of a
Having owned a small logging company for about 2 years, and
having used numerous chain saws, I vote for the cheapest oil
that you can get. NOTHING can be more abrasive to the bar
than the chain itself. The oil serves to keep it cool and
lubricated. Any oil will do that.
We bought 5 gallon buckets of reconstituted oil and mixed it
with used (strained through a paint strainer) motor oil mixed
in to make it go further. We used about 20 gallons a week.
I still have an old Poulan Countervibe 3500 from those days
that is still going strong, and that was in the 70s.
Huh? Bar oil is CHEAPER than 10W30 oil, if you are
buying regular 10W30. If you have excess or
essentially free 10W30 add a few ounces of Motor
Honey per gallon of oil to hold it on the bar.
There is nothing special about bar oil in the way
| Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30
| engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was
| just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?
Judging from the length of this thread and the amount of new
information conveyed, it must be the solstice, a full moon, or too hot
to work in the shop.
OMG - it's all three at once!
Happy woodcutting with the oil of your choice :-).
DeSoto, Iowa USA
with good oil reaching 2.00 a quart, bar oil isnt that much more
,maybe less..my buddy used his old engine oil out of his car and mower
in his stihl 041 farm boss and it clogged up the pump or pump filter
,anyway,it quit pumping oil. . lucas
Skipping the big long thread in the middle on this.
I have only ever put USED motor oil for my bar oil. I have 2 stihls that are
about 20 and 13 years old respectfully. I have replaced the oil pumps in
each saw once for 70~80 dollars Canadian, parts and labour each time. Each
saw is expected to cut and rip about 60~75 cords of firewood each year. I
do believe I have saved good amount of money over the last 20 years by using
used motor oil and getting new pumps rather than using new motor oil or bar
It works for me.
Well the bar oil is pretty damn expensive in Canada. prolly more like a 33
to 40 cents a day difference.
I cut firewood for a decent second income. I figure my work season, not
including rainy days, when I just split or clean brush is 100 days a year.
I spend about 30 days actually delivering to bring it up to 130. If I use
my saws, (I use a smaller stihl bar and motor for smaller work) for those
100 days of work that 33 cents is 33 dollars for one year. I do believe I
have been doing firewood at the same pace for 20 years, BUT for accuracy
sake lets go down to 15 years. That 15 years = 495 dollars. I have spent
about 160 in repairs to the oil pumps so my REAL savings is 335 dollars.
If I save 33 dollars a year on one aspect of my side project, imagine what
saving 33 dollars a year on several aspects can amount too. I use gasoline
tractors. If I save 33 dollars a year on gas (not letting them idle for
example while I survey), and save 33 dollars a year on tire repairs to my
trailers (but not hauling wood so fast over rocks) etc etc etc.
As for cancer? I run a cutting tools business where we weld cobalt and
tungsten and molyb bandsaw blades all day. I have to deal with used
threading oil and bandsaw machine inspections and metal filings 40 or 50
hours a week.
As for groundwater I'm in the woods 1/2 to 2 miles from my artesian spring
well. My concern for local groundwater ends there. By the time groundwater
makes off my property into the two drainage areas, I have always assumed
mother nature has filtered it. The simple act of burning firewood cause far
more environmental damage than throwing oil on the ground.
You raised good points but when I count pennies and nickels on my firewood
sales just like I do in my cutting tools sales, used motor oil provides a
savings. So Yes it is worth it.
Re: biolube bar oil
I'd be pretty angry if some stranger (or county agency) decided to spray 10
or 20 gallons of petroleum all over my property. Why should I do it myself?
I switched to biolube two years ago. Any Stihl or Husky dealer can order it.
Yes, they complain about no one else wanting it. Yes, you end up looking
like some green, granola eating, tree-hugging logger (huh?). And yes, they
will special order it if you insist.
I know there is Old School and New School, and I'm probably
pre-Kindergarten. However, if I were purchasing a property, and I discovered
the previous owner had been spraying motor oil all over the place for 20
years, I'd seriously consider walking away. We have haywire environmental
laws out here in California, and the buyer can inherit a cleanup liability.
Bio oil is cheap insurance.
I rather hope you send it to a recycler and don't dump it on the
I don't think Mother Nature is very good at breaking down petroleum
oil. I suspect breakdown relies heaviely on oxidation and exposure
UV,both of which will be minimized underground.
Organics can travel long distances through the water table. E.g.
mother nature is very poor at filtering them. So if
someone uphill where the water enters your artesian system dumps
oil on the ground you likely have traces of it in your well,
depending on how long it takes to get to you from there.
No need to trust me, or to assume, these are things you can check
out for yourself.
Uh, that rather heavily depends on the quantity of each, but
I suspect you are right on the mark as regars how much oil
gets into the environment from normal chain saw use to make
firewood vs how muchharm is done by burning the wood.
But that is an argument from irrelevency, the amoutn of firewood
you cut probably remains independent of your choice of
I few years back I helped a guy convert some wood using an
Alaskan chian saw mill. He used some sort of vegetable oils
in the gas and on the bar. The manufacturer claimed (of
course) that these were better lubricants than their
petroleum-based counterparts. This guy used them because
the apararatus put the operators face near the exhaust and
the vegetable oils made the environment less unpleasant.
A good respirator helped more though.
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