Do you use bar oil in your chainsaw?

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Well, a field expedient, or maybe for folks who beat up a bar so bad so fast that it's not important, like limbers.
However, bar oils are formulated differently even for summer and winter to try and hit that happy place where it carries well enough to lubricate, while having the good sense to get out of the way with its burden of dirt when the chain runs fast and free.
I'm in hardwood country, and in the days before harvesters it was really tough to find someone who didn't use bar oil, or respect the tool that brought him his livelihood well enough to spend the four bucks per gallon. Bubba in the pineywoods might have enough waste oil in the junkers in his front yard to cut for a couple of days, but it just doesn't make sense for someone earning a living with his saw to scrounge dirty oil.
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I generally try to avoid sticking the tip of my chain saw into the dirt.
Apparently you're not as careful with yours.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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wrote:

What do you do, pressure wash the bark? Or does the wind not blow and carry where you live?
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No, I try to avoid sticking the tip into the dirt. Like I said.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Who the hell let's the bar or chain hit the dirt? If you are that careless, then you may as well use water instead of bar oil.
================
snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

I'm wondering which part of "The first time the tip touches dirt even for an instant, you've just put more crap on the bar than any amount of used motor oil possibly could" you can't comprehend.
Face it, Doug, waste oil is perfectly fine as bar oil, despite your bleating to the contrary.
(And the greenies who might want to cry about it are perfectly welcome to go suck rocks.)
-- Don Bruder - snipped-for-privacy@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004. Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address. See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.
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Hoping you are not as obtuse as Doug, the purpose of the oil is _also_ to help get the dirt which gets on the bar flushed away.
Unless your trees are much different that the rest of the world, the bark/branch pockets/crotches will collect dirt.
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So, besides being a top-posting moron, you're also absolutely perfect, and have never, under any circumstances, for any reason, *EVER* hit dirt while cutting, eh?
Damn... You're a GOD!
--
Don Bruder - snipped-for-privacy@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
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That's "lets"...
I got dirt on my chain several times recently while cutting some trees off right at the ground. The chain got dull, but I got done what I wanted.
-Mike
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Don Bruder wrote:

And God don't need no chain saw. A few tsunamis, an earthquake or two, forest fires, etc, and the planet is 'right' again.
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On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 00:47:22 GMT, in alt.home.repair RE: Re: Do you use bar oil in your chainsaw? snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

It's not a question of dirty/used oil lubricating as well as new oil. It's a question of weather the used oil lubricates sufficiently for the needs of a chain saw bar/chain.
--
To reply to me directly, remove the CLUTTER from my email address.

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I'm not sure what you think you read. I never said anything beyond stating what is, or should be, self-evidently obvious: that new oil is a better lubricant than used oil, and that oils specifically formulated for a particular purpose are better suited to that purpose than oils which are not.
--
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote:

I read your typical reaction to a suggestion...
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Then I'm at a total loss to understand where you thought you read that the sky is falling.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote: ...

It's the logical characterization by extension of your absolute position which is repeated on a myriad of subjects...
It's not that the statements themselves are strictly incorrect (yes, new oil <is> more lubricating than old, and yes, what is entrained in used oil isn't a lubricant), it's that you tend to apply the principle to the extreme where, in this case, the lubrication reqm'ts are so minimal and the inevitable introduction of extraneous dirt and grime makes carrying on over using virgin lubricant specifically tailored to the purpose such overkill as to invite parody...
That help? :)
And, btw, most of the loss of function in motor oil isn't the oil, per se, it's the breakdown of the additives that are there specifically for the high-temperature/high-pressure conditions of an engine--conditions not at all prevalent in the application here.
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I'm not responsible for you reading things I didn't write.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote:

Nor am for your apparent inability to recognize patterns revealed by repeated specific actions.... :)
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I'm certainly picking up a pattern in *your* posts...
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote:

...
To that I certainly plead guilty... :)
I consistently try to point out the tendency to go to extremes (of which you're not the only propoent), sadly. :(
I had hoped you just <might> see at least a modicum of levity arising in the continuing descent into absurdium...alas, if not. I tried.
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We've been waiting for that 'round these parts as long as I can remember. I don't think Doug ever admits to being wrong. As near as I can tell, his opinion is the nearest thing to gospel truth. Doug, thanks for setting us all on the path to righteousness!
:)
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I've been using hair oil in my chain saw for years. The chain always stays neat and nicely slicked down, even in a strong wind. Occasionally you should take it to a barber for a trim. Some prefer to take the chain saw to a beauty parlor for a wash and set, but that's for sissies.
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