Do you bother to sharpen your lawn mower blade? Why?

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Here in CT usa a plain rotary mower blade is resharpened and balanced for $6.25 and a mulching blade for 7.5
It might be a dollar extra for the fools who mulch countless rocks and stumps:)
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On Tue, 6 Jul 2010 09:41:06 -0700 (PDT), beecrofter wrote:

This morning I called the Briggs and Stratton recommended lawnmower shop for my zip code (95134).
They told me it will always costs me $45/half hour shop rate for anything they do.
Therefore, they recommended I try to have other work done because a half hour is their minimum charge.
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I can see where it can take a half hour to remove a blade that has not been off for years. If it is a quickie, get the oil changed at the same time to get your $45 worth.
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James H. wrote:

Of course. If it didn't work better when sharp, they would sell new ones dull.
They are probably listening to one of their lawyers that see danger in the home owner sharpening their own blades.
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James H. wrote:

Because it costs nothing, and takes way less time than running out to 5 shops trying to find the right blade. Sharpening a blade probably takes 10 minutes.
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I replace my blade( pushmower ) once a year. No sharpening
Jimmie
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On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:13:00 -0700, James H. wrote:

To follow up on this thread, I learned a lot, summarized as: - It cuts better when/if you sharpen the blade - Sharpen the blade off the lawnmower; balance it before putting it back
In the end, I bought a new blade from Sears ($15) but only because I was also ordering a new plastic intake manifold and screws which were snapped in half by my idiotic attempt at prying up the flywheel while banging down on the crankshaft. NEVER DO THAT!
Nothing is gonna happen except aluminum and plastic stuff under the engine will break. The part that broke is #50 (intake manifold, Sears PN 497465) and #54 (intake manifold screw) on page 36 of this 40-page pdf (half of which is in Spanish). http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0505023.pdf http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/14875 / http://tinyurl.com/32mzm2n
If you ever have to remove a flywheel like the one in my Craftsman 21" push mower 917.388853 with a Briggs and Stratton 6.5HP 123K02-0444-E1 engine, simply tap the two holes in the flywheel with a 1/4 x 20 tap, and use a harmonic balancer puller and voila, the flywheel will come off.
Resist the tempatation to pry (you'll only break stuff) and bang on the crankshaft (what's that gonna do anyway; the crankshaft isn't going to move down?????).
When I pick up a screw extractor set, I'll remove the broken bolt; and when the new intake manifold arrives, it will come with a new blade which will solve my dilemma once and for all!
Thanks for all your advice; you guys are wonderful!
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On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:13:00 -0700, James H. wrote:

http://www.gadgetcorner.com/hardw/blade/blade.htm
"A dull blade will tear at the grass, damaging the blade tips and leaving a whitish sheen across the lawn. But a sharp blade will make a clean cut leaving a deep even green color over the entire lawn."
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On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 2:13:00 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:

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InTheSouth wrote:

I do sharp blade but not often, maybe once a season or less. When I take blade out for sharpening I also make sure it is in balance. You can feel when blade gets dull, you can even see the clippings how clean they are cut instead of beat up with jagged cut edges. Maybe they are trying to sell more replacement blade, LOL! Any way I don't cut lawn myself any more. Some one else does it but I take care of mower(John Deer, Kawasaki engine)
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On 5/4/2014 3:24 PM, InTheSouth wrote:

someone reminds me. Must be sharpen time, this year.
--
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Christopher A. Young
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On 5/4/2014 3:24 PM, InTheSouth wrote:

$100 to $200? Where are you getting those rates? I can take my blade up the street for an $8 sharpen but I can also do it myself which I do.
It's your grass, if you want to have torn grass blades resulting in a diseased lawn and inviting more weeds, go for it. I'll keep mine sharpen for a nicer lawn.
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I sharpen the blades a bit while it's on the mower. Makes a big difference.
I knew I needed to order new blades, because they were bent. I can't unbend them myself. Last week caught up on manhole cover out back. Busted blade mount on rider. Been there before. Found cheap entire kit for $63. Two of everything plus belts.
Other rider leaked gas into oil last year. Engine pretty much gone. Oh I guess I go to scrap. Got good use out of that used mower or 8 years. Lots of stumps, roots, branches, etc.
Tried to start larger mower brother gave me last summer. Wiring mess on that. Got to jump start solenoid. Not sucking gas. Tried priming fuel pump. Runs ok on that for a while. Still needs work. My grass is growing.
Waiting for parts. Got 3 push mowers. I'll wait.
Greg
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On 5/4/2014 3:24 PM, InTheSouth wrote:

I take them off and sharpen on a bench grinder. With all the trees and shrubs about my yard dropping twigs they get nicked and dull quickly. Makes a noticible difference in performance and looks much neater, no brown sheen on top from being ripped off rather than cleanly cut.
John
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On Sun, 4 May 2014 12:24:25 -0700 (PDT), InTheSouth

Sure, takes a few minutes and cuts better, cleaner. Most times I just take a file and do it in place. Same number of swipes on each side to keep it in balance.
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On 5/4/2014 4:02 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

The blades I've seen which were out of balance, will take more than a few file strokes to bring them back.
--
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Christopher A. Young
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On Sun, 4 May 2014 12:24:25 -0700 (PDT), InTheSouth

stressing the grass more.Just makes a better job. But a "sharp" blade is not sharp like a razor blade. It has a "square edge" if done properly. A razor edgw will curl and nick too easily, and a good square edge cuts grass cleanly. Some people call it a "butter knife" edge.
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On Sun, 4 May 2014 12:24:25 -0700 (PDT), InTheSouth

I used to every couple years but got out of the habit. My current blade is about 4 or 5 years old and up until recently seemed to cut ok. I noticed it started leaving a line of grass along the edge and isn't vacuuming as well as it used to. I looked at the blade and it looks like it's lost about 1" of length from each end so I ordered a new blade. It's supposed to be a 21" inch blade but it's only about 18.5" total length now.
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On 05/04/2014 12:46 PM, Bob F wrote:

Yep, I sharpen mine about every other year, at the same time that I change the oil. It makes a noticeable difference in the ability of the engine to cut the grass.
Jon
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On Sun, 4 May 2014 12:24:25 -0700 (PDT), InTheSouth

No, the sand here polishes a good edge on them and every season or so you buy new ones. (but look sometimes they are ready to eject a tip a bit sooner) This is a year
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Mower%20blade.jpg
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