Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?

We're giving our old BBQ fridge away to a neighbor's kid who is heading off to college.

The racks were slightly rusted from being outside for years, so I dunked them in muriatic and phosphoric acid (in that order) and rinsed them well:

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Now the rust is gone, but, there is bare metal where the rust was.

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What would you paint these with?

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Reply to
Danny D.
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On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 06:50:20 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." wrote in Re Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?:

I would use this

Reply to
CRNG

It has actually been on the market for some time by at least one manufacturer. ^_^

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

That's a great idea! Performix® Rerack® Dishwasher Rack Repair (630076)

A dishwasher would get wet all the time, just like my BBQ frig did, so, it makes sense a dishwasher product would work.

I'll head on down to ACE today.

Thanks!

Reply to
Danny D.

Now that I know the name, I'll look for it at either Ace or Home Depot today.

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Reply to
Danny D.

Personally, I wouldn't paint them. If you just have to, find a paint that will withstand the temperature.

Reply to
dadiOH

Forget it, I was thinking broiler racks :(

Reply to
dadiOH

Ooops. Sorry for not being clear.

It's an Avanti refrigerator.

It seems to be something like about 3.4 cubic feet or so.

It fit under the BBQ table. The door was broken, so it got wet inside for a couple of years. No big deal but the steel racks rusted and the coating cracked a bit.

I moved the hinge from one side to the other, and now it seems to be working fine.

The biggest problem was this bar was all cracked up:

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So, I glued it with Elmers glue, spreading it about last night, and letting the glue dry.

Reply to
Danny D.

Thanks for the pointer to the reviews. It looks like folks had a hard time because they didn't remove the rust first.

What I did, for better or for worse, is yesterday I soaked in a bucket of water with a couple of cups of strong muriatic acid, and then I liberally coated the racks with Naval Jelly (Phosphoric Acid).

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Then, when it dried in the sun, I liberally coated the entire rack with glue (I thought it was Elmers but it was Loctite latex white stuff). I let that dry overnight.

Today I was gonna buy the dishwasher stuff, but, it was only a buck or two more for the rubbery stuff, so I bought the rubbery stuff instead. Comparing ingredients, the dishwasher stuff had far fewer ingredients, but, everything in the dishwasher stuff was also in the rubbery stuff. I think the biggest problem will be these cracks:

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Hopefully the glue will hold them together.

Reply to
Danny D.

Well, it might not. We'll see. The biggest mistake I made was putting the racks to dry on the cardboard box I painted them on. And then putting the second rack on top of the painted racks to dry.

What happened was the thick white rubbery paint formed blobs at the junction points.

So I scraped it off and the second time around I hung the racks from wires.

It's in the frig now, ready to be handed over to the kid for school. It's good enough for government work, or, as Oren is fond of saying, it's looks fine from here.

Thanks for all the advice, as always (you guys are great).

Reply to
Danny D.

Danny D.:

If you ever have to do that work again, then don't bother with paint; just use white 2 inch wide lane marking tape.

Lane marking tape has a very strong adhesive, which is also water proof. Also, lane marking tape itself is very strong because people walk on it, and they use floor cleaning machines over the tape without it coming off. And, it comes in various colours and various widths.

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For example, with the rack shown in this photo:

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I'd just cut a piece of 2 inch wide white lane marking tape, and fold it over the edge of the rack so that the tape is 7/8 inches wide along the edge of the rack and the adhesive surfaces stick to each other between the tynes of the rack.

PS1:

Someone mentioned MEK earlier.

MEK and acetone are both "Ketones". A ketone is anything with the following structure...

A | C=O | B

Where A and B can be anything and C and O are Carbon and Oxygen atoms respectively, with a double bond between them.

If both A and B are methyl groups (-CH3), then it's called "dimethyl ketone", or "acetone" for short.

If A is a methyl group (-CH3) and B is an ethyl group (-CH2-CH3), then it's called "methyl ethyl ketone", or "MEK" for short. Or, if you're stoned, if A is the ethyl group and B is the methyl group, it's still MEK.

So, acetone (which is nail polish remover) and MEK are chemical siblings. MEK is acetone's big brother.

PS2:

Both carbon and silicon both form 4 covalent bonds. So, methane has a chemical formula of CH4 cuz the carbon atom forms a covalent bond with each of 4 hydrogen atoms.

Silicone also forms 4 covalent bonds, just like carbon, so chemists wanted to know what they'd get if they used silicon instead of carbon to make plastics.

The first successful plastic made from silicon was the silicon rubber that we still use today as silicone caulk. Chemists noticed that the number of oxygen atoms and the number of silicon atoms in the new plastic were equal, and so there was some speculation that the structure of the new plastic was that of a long ketone; like this:

| Si=O | Si=O | Si=O |

So, they combined the words "silicon" and "ketone" to name the new plastic "silicone". That's why it's Silicon Valley, but it's silicon_e_ caulk.

Well, it turns out they got the structure of silicone rubber all wrong. It turns out the real structure of silicone rubber is:

.......| .......O .......| H3C-Si-CH3 .......| .......O .......| H3C-Si-CH3 .......| .......O .......| H3C-Si-CH3 .......|

(pardon the periods)

Basically, it's a -Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O backbone with two methyl groups bonded to each silicon atom.

So, since it didn't look like a ketone after all, chemists quickly renamed the plastic "di methyl siloxane", but everyone still calls it "silicone" cuz the original name stuck. So, if you see anything with the word "siloxane" in it's name, it means it's a silicon based plastic.

Dow Corning has a section on it's web site explaining the chemistry and properties of silicones, or more correctly, siloxanes: 'Fascinating Silicones - Dow Corning'

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Reply to
nestork

Very strong adhesive uh? I wonder how it would do to tape someone's mouth shut? I can see a "hole" new industry develop around it. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Thinking of harry again? Fingers, man!

Reply to
krw

Actually my roommate and his psychotic Beagle. They make more noise than a whole crowd at a football game. O_o

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

I like the idea of the lane-marking tape for a wholly different reason. There is a private road nearby, where my friend, who lives on that private road, loudly commiserated with me that he wished people would stay on their side of the narrow road (which has one sharp blind curve).

We discussed a cheap way of keeping people on their side, and we were going to paint a stripe down the middle - but - the lane marking tape seems like a better idea.

Does it bend around a typical sharp curve in a road?

(I don't know how to describe the radius but cars go around it at about

20 mph and they can't see each other until it's too late.)
Reply to
Danny D.

Done.

Reply to
Danny D.

For something like that, you'd be better off with "pavement marking tape", which would be much more weather and UV resistant.

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But, the least expensive way to do it would be to use a 3 inch paint roller sleeve to paint a stripe down the middle of the road using pavement striping paint:

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Centerline Supply makes pavement marking paint in various colours, but you could almost certainly order the stuff from any of your local paint stores.

Paints used for marking highways or parking lots will be thinned with alcohol so that they dry very rapidly, and so they can be thinned with alcohol for spraying.

Painting the stripe on with a 3 inch roller sleeve would be the fastest easiest and cheapest way to do it, and would probably last longer than tape too.

Reply to
nestork

Around here, the city puts a big mirrors and sometimes a flashing caution light at blind curves but you write that it's a private road. Installing a safety mirror might be easier than striping the road. O_o

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

It has to be cheap.

We figured paint would be cheaper than mirrors (which can be stolen and which have to be in a footing).

If we could find a really cheap (like $20) source for mirrors, that might make a difference though.

Reply to
Danny D.

This makes the most sense, cost wise!

Reply to
Danny D.

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