Do it yourself fumigating

I am putting a new roof on a 40 year old home. The roof is stripped down to the beams and numerous walls are open to replace damaged beams. From everything I gather this is an ideal time to treat the openings for future termite problems. I plan to generously spry orange oil. My thoughts are to also blow in boric acid. Are there any packages that I could deposit in the walls for a longer lasting effect.
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snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

I can only respond as a chemist with no practical experience. Boric acid/borates would look good to me. Here's something I googled up: http://www.askthebuilder.com/272-StopTermites-Soak-Wood-with-Safe-Borates.shtml I would think orange oil might function as a repellent but might stink up house and eventually evaporate.
Frank
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snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

First question would be are you in an area where dry wood termites are even an issue, otherwise the only real protection would be a soil treatment for subterranean termites. Boric acid is a heavy crystal and does not "blow" well. You will end up with an area with way too much BA to be effective and not enough in other areas. Now what a home owner can do is apply a product called Tim-bor. Mix the package up with a gallon of water and spray the exposed wood to point of run off. It can be an aid for wood destroying insects and fungi.
During construction is a good time to timely apply different products, but would think it would be best to hire a pro so that you know that proper products and placements are being done so that in a year down the road you find out all the work and money spent now was not a waste of time.
Lar
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BORATE WOOD PRESERVATIVES:
COMMERCIAL AND HOME-BREWED
Commercial:
Tim-Bor: Solid sodium octaborate; dissolves in water to make approx. a 10% solution containing 6.6% borate (B2O3); about $13/lb. Covers about 200 sq ft.
Bora-Care: 40% solution of sodium octaborate in ethylene glycol; 27% borate content; $90/gal. for the concentrate.
Home-Brew Water Solution of Borates:
Based on U.S. Navy spec. of 60% borax-40% boric acid (this ratio gives the maximum solubility of borates in water);
#1. This is equiv. to Tim-Bor... 6 parts of borax and 4 parts of boric acid.
To prepare one gallon of a 10% solution, start with an oversize container (larger than 1 gallon ) add 1 lb. of powder to appx 3 qts of water agitating until the powder has dissolved, then add additional water to end up with 1 gallon of mix. To prepare a 15% solution, add 1.5 lbs. of powder, then add the remainder of the water and mix as previously. Approximately 1 gallon of solution will be needed to treat 200 square feet of wood surface area. (Note: solutions should be used immediately and not stored.) .
EXAMPLE: Prepare 5 gallons of 10% solution:
Add four (4) gallons of clear, warm water to a six-gallon bucket.
Add five (5) lbs. of powder while gently stirring.
Add enough water to bring the final volume to 5 gallons, and continue to stir until all of the powder has dissolved.
Agitate the solution briefly at the beginning of each spray job, or after the solution has been standing for an extended period.
Do not spray or spill onto soil or foliage.
Apply two applications of a 10% solution to wood surfaces by brush or spray. Apply one application of a 15% solution to wood surfaces by brush or spray. Applications may be made to wood structures including decks, fences, steps, sheds, barns and other out-buildings.
#2: This is equivalent to Bora-Care
Prepare the concentrate:
Mix 1 Gallon glycol antifreeze, 4 1/2 pounds borax, 3 1/2 pounds boric acid.
Mix the ingredients and heat till boiling gently. Boil off water until a candy thermometer shows 260F. This removes most of the water of crystallization in the borax.
This solution is stable at 40F and has a borate content of 26%. This is equivalent to Bora-
Care at about $90/gal. for the concentrate. The concentrate must be diluted with an equal volume of water before being applied.
Application: Add 1 gallon of water to every gallon of concentrate and stir thoroughly until solution is completely uniform. Always use diluted within 24 hours after mixing. If kept for longer periods of time, the active ingredient can drop out of the solution.
Note: is toxic to plants and shrubbery; if necessary, cover plants, root systems and surrounding soil with plastic to avoid contamination. Apply only to bare wood. Remove any finish or water repellent coating before applying . Wood surfaces should be free of dirt and other contaminates. Apply diluted by spray or brush to all exposed wood surfaces. It may occasionally be necessary to apply more than one coat of to attain the recommended application rate. This is especially true for larger, smooth surfaced wood members. Wood surfaces should be allowed to dry for at least 2 hours between applications. Do not apply in the rain or snow. If inclement weather is expected, protect exposed treated surface with a plastic tarp for at least 24 hours after treatment. One gallon of concentrate will treat up to 800 board feet of wood. Only diluted should be applied to any wood surface. Prior to application, check wood surfaces for an existing water repellent finish by spraying a small amount of water onto the surface of the wood or logs. If the water beads up or is not absorbed into the wood, a finish is present which must be removed before applying the diluted solution.
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snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

DIY fumigating is a lot like DIY fire fighting - best left to experts. I have no idea how widespread the stuff is, but I sure would search exhaustively for information before saturating my house with it. I did a quick google search and found some interesting info:
http://www.floridachemical.com/MSDSdlimonenematerialsafetydatasheets.htm
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