I'm a DIY roof fixer on a 50-year-old ranch-style house in upstate New
York. The roof is in pretty good shape, but some of the tricky parts of
the roof (chimney and a major valley) are not done according to the DIY
The chimney is holding up if I keep the leaves from building up, but
the valley is leaking (again). I fixed it for a few years last time
with some careful tarring, but I read up enough to know that the valley
should have a flashing under the tiles that is two-feet-wide, a foot up
each side under the tiles. There is no such thing.
As best as I can determine, the original roofer brought the two
slopes together and put down a tar and tape 4-inch valley.
I don't want to rip up enough tiles to do this right, at least until
I am looking at reroofing in general, so what is next-best?
1) just keep tarring holes
2) run a tarring-tape down the valley and tar over it
3) a 4-inch metal flashing, tarred down
4) duct tape, tarred over
5) flashing tape, tarred at the edges
6) something else?
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 19:08:34 +0000, Bert Byfield wrote:
It almost seems as though the flashing was installed incorrectly.
Or it could lack ice dam protection thus causing water to seep beneath
shingles and then into roof sheathing.
Best would be to carefully remove shingles along valley, redo valley
correctly and then reshingle.
If the pitches that form the valley are equal and the courses line
up fairly well, you might consider roofing through the valley. It
will mean tearing out a full shingle on each side of the valley,
but may give the best long term result. This method is sometimes
called lacing or weaving.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
I used the weaving method when I shingled our house. We have a 6/12 pitch
on one side, and a 9/12 pitch on the other. It takes a little patience and
thinking to keep things looking balanced, but the weaving worked fine even
with the uneven roof pitches. I ran a 36" roll of an ice and water
protection membrane down the valley before shingling, and kept all nails at
least 8 inches away from the valley when nailing the shingles. When
necessary, I'd use a shorter section of shingles further back on the roof
so I could have a full shingle overlap across the valley. No leaks in over
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