I have a cheapie Chinese double quartz worklite on a stand - and the
500W bulbs' ceramic ends disintegrate - filaments and glass envelope are
intact, but the ends just crumble from the heat.
Anybody else have this problem?
Any particular brand of replacement bulb that'll solve mny dilemma?
Some might say "you get what you pay for" .. I.e. Cheapie -- Others might
say that's China for you, the way everything is going, I think maybe a
little of everything. I have had that problem several times and even though
the rating was 500W I had to step down to 300W Sylvanias.
On 12/28/06 9:56 PM, in article firstname.lastname@example.org, "Bob (but not
As you know, these bulbs operate at very high temperatures and the
quality of some of the no name offerings is dubious at best. Stick
with Philips, Osram Sylvania or GE when selecting a replacement.
I highly recommend GE's HIR linear halogens. They use a special
coating to reflect some of the waste heat (IR) back to the filament,
much in the same way the low-e coating on window glass reflects heat
back into a room. This allows the filament to operate at its optimum
temperature while drawing fewer watts.
GE's 350-watt Q350T3/CL/HIR lamp produces the same amount of light as
a standard 500-watt halogen bulb but uses 30 per cent less power.
Over the course of its 2,000 hour life, it will save 300 kWh ($30.00
at $0.10 per kWh). At the same time, it produces nearly one-third
less heat, reducing thermal stress on the bulb's contacts as well as
the fixture itself.
You may have to hunt them down (they're not widely stocked) and they
cost a couple dollars more but they're worth every penny. This
auction has ended, but three of these lamps for $10.00 was an
On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 02:56:05 GMT, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
Indeed. I installed a set on my Chrysler LHS and they made a world of
difference. The original head lights on this car were so bad the
vehicle should have been equipped with a white cane.
BTW, for PAR-style lamps, Philips is the one to beat:
On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 04:29:36 GMT, "Art"
I hear you. I had a 94 LHS. Lights were pathetic. By the way, if you ever
get a thump under the shifter console, check your rear transmission mount.
Also the tires on that car make a tremendous difference in ride. Do not
stick with the Goodyear Eagles unless you like driving on rocks.
Thanks for the tip; much appreciated. My LHS is a '94 as well and now
clocks in at 285,000 km. No major problems to report other than the
a/c (evaporator, dryer unit and, now, most recently, the compressor)
and a front passenger window that don't always do as it's told. I
bought a second LHS in '97 and its performance was virtually flawless
-- I think it had some 197,000 km on the odometer when I traded it in
for a 300M Special back in April, 2002.
BTW, the original headlight assembly was replaced under warranty with
a modified version and this did help considerably. Better, but still
not great. The current tyres are BF Goodrich, which are a huge
improvement over the original Goodyears.
On Sun, 31 Dec 2006 01:35:45 GMT, "Art"
I would suggest taking a very close look at the lamp and the contacts.
I suspect they are not in the greatest of shape and are generating extra
heat. They need to make near perfect contact to reduce spot heat.
Depending on their condition you can try cleaning them (I like using a
pencil eraser as it does not damage the contacts) and maybe using some
dielectric grease (very thin coating) to reduce future oxidation.
I'm sure you know already, as instructions are on every box and container.
Be sure not to let your bare skin touch the bulb. Wear Rubber gloves when
touching the actual element (when it's cool of course).
On 12/29/06 9:01 PM, in article email@example.com, "Bob (but not
Absolutely - I've been doing that with photographic quartz lights since
they came out. I used to teach people about quartz handling ages ago
when I worked in a pro camera store.
That's why I'm surprised with this sudden disintegration - I've never
seen anything like it, even with 2k bulbs.
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