Dirty power steering fluid

[J T]

No.. rather I am trying to show by example why changing very old fluid in a very old machine could be bad. Putting squeaky-clean new ATF into a transmission which has had the same fluid for 100,000 miles -- and is working fine -- will definitely change the characterstics of it's operation, since the new fluid will have very different viscosity. And probably not for the better.

The critical point I am trying to make here is the difference between "preventative maintenance" and "messing with a 100,000 mile old system". If the manufacturer says change the oil every 30,000 miles, then do it at least that often. But if the manufacturer says never change it (as most did, as of the mid 90's)- and you never did in the past -- you could very well be asking for trouble.

Anyway I hope we can both agree on one thing: do what your manual says, not what the jiffy lube guy says.

[Mark and Kim Smith]

A client comes in with a trans slip or other problem. The first thing I'm going to do is flush the trans. Out with the old oil, in with the new with fresh detergent properties. Shifting problem went away?? Probably as less valves are getting gummed up and unstuck from old oil that lost it's detergent properties! BTW, more times than not, that flush will fix problems before I farm out a $1000 repair to a trans shop!

[Mark and Kim Smith]

WRONG!! That's all you need is to loose your pedal due to lack of brake fluid. How often do most people check that reservoir?? An indicator of brake wear is regular pulling of the wheels with a visual inspection! A low reservoir will indicate low brake wear, calipers or wheel cylinders leaking, or a master cylinder leaking. ( Case in point, current Dodge vehicles, say 1998 on up, use an "O" ring between the master and the booster. The only way to tell the master is leaking, is to "dip" the booster through the vacuum port. A design flaw Dodge doesn't want to seem to fix. I fear every time I see a Dodge product behind me as I know the general public doesn't know about inspecting this way and the Jiffy lube guy sure don't!!)

DO NOT push that fluid from the calipers back up top the master. Notice the discoloration?? That is dirt and particles in your fluid. Good idea to shove that stuff back up into a machined valve! "Pro" mechanics and those who do it right, will crack the bleeder on the caliper and squeeze the fluid out of that port! Not back up through the master! Then after assembly, add fluid to the master, bleed the extreme ports and new fluid will be in the whole system. Also, if you own a new Ford ( 03-04) F150, check the brakes more than 30,000 miles. I've found that front pads are only lasting 11,000 to 15,000. Not much, eh? Wonder if Ford will address this issue!

[Chris Perdue]

not "wrong" completley....if your fluid is in between the high and low range then adding is NOT needed...BTW, if people don't check their reservoir, as you imply, does it matter? if they don't check their reservoir for "padwear indicated by fluid level", then what makes you think they will check it often enough to catch a low level due to a leak?

------------------- Chris Perdue "I'm ever so thankful for the Internet; it has allowed me to keep a finger in the pie and to make some small contribution to those younger who will carry the air-cooled legend forward" Jim Mais Feb. 2004

[Chris Perdue]

LOL...JT i don't agree here, but i DO agree with what you have elaborated on in your post...i was strictly following the "regular/preventative" maintenance part...as far as that goes, most manufacturers stretch it out too far...

------------------- Chris Perdue "I'm ever so thankful for the Internet; it has allowed me to keep a finger in the pie and to make some small contribution to those younger who will carry the air-cooled legend forward" Jim Mais Feb. 2004

[Mark and Kim Smith]

That is my point and what scares me somewhat. It all gets back to regular maintenance intervals! I can agree with you on the "between the full and low" but I'd rather have it towards the full side for a margin of safety. If a rock flies up and breaks one of your rear lines ( or fronts ), at least there will be enough in the reservoir to keep the front ( or rear) system pumped up to get you to a safe stop without having to panic while using the e-brake. Besides, if you don't keep your rear brakes adjusted properly, that e-brake becomes ineffective and a panic stop is no time to find that out! Someone else made mention of "automatic brake adjustment", want to see some NTSB or DOT reports on "automatic brake adjusters" for trucks that weren't so automatic? Let's talk about the school bus in New Jersey that wouldn't stop. It all gets back to regular maintenance as recommended by the manufacturer.

[Chris Perdue]

well having an open line will render the affected circuit useless, and that is why most reservoirs are devided to a point to allow separate operation in an emergency..

my favorite toys (carwise) never came with automatic adjusters, so i do make it a point to check even my more modern vehicles on occassion for proper adjustment of the drums....e-brake travel is a great indicator of when they need adjustment, or at minimum inspection

------------------- Chris Perdue "I'm ever so thankful for the Internet; it has allowed me to keep a finger in the pie and to make some small contribution to those younger who will carry the air-cooled legend forward" Jim Mais Feb. 2004

[Greg O]

I agree! I have "saved" a failed transmission more than once with fresh fluid and a filter. You guys can do what you want! If my tranny fluid is brown, it is getting changed! Clean fluid and a new filter never ruined a transmission! (It never gets brown! I change it before it gets that color!) Greg

[Greg O]

That I will not buy! I have had trannys in my own autos where I knew the service records, that seemed to be working fine. Surprisingly the tranny worked better yet with a fluid and filter change. Again, do what ever you like, what ever you do won't cost me a dime! On the other hand, my cars get fluids changed on a regular basis. Greg

[Mark and Kim Smith]

Yup! Not a good feeling 1) having that pedal drop 'cause half your brake system is out and 2) relying on only one axle of braking to stop the vehicle. Especially if all you have is the rear half!

Yup!

[Rein]

exactly. Brake fluid replacement is probably one of the most neglected things on cars these days. And people are surprised when their expensive abs parts fail due to corrosion. duh.

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[Chet Hayes]

And maybe you don't know that heavy towing is not average conditions as defined by the manufacturers.

[Al Bundy]

This fluid change post comes up in the car groups regularly and is always debated needlessly. Myth is passed on from generation to generation. A lifetime of driving old cars and paying attention to others tells me that those who make their vehicles and its components last the longest chance their fluids the most. I change PS fluid every year as well as brake fluid,transmission and antifreeze. The differential is changed every few years. I never have a driveline failure. Look in the car groups for those 250K-300K mile Chevys. They are maintained. The local car show here has a lady who was a currier putting on tons of mileage. She was at the dealer every week for maintenance. When she had 350,000 miles on her Dodge Neon she gave it to her sister who continued to put more miles on it. All this maintenance can be wasted if you plan on trading the vehicle right away or if there is a genetic flaw in the vehicle. That's the risk you take, but maintenance is the way to go for those who hope to keep their vehicles.

[Steven Fleckenstein]

Ford products with power steering pumps that utilize type F transmission fluid seem to be the only cars I come across that need power steering fluid changes. In particular fox body based cars of the 1980's thru early 1990's and Taurus/Sable variants. The fluid in these pumps turn solid black and the pumps get very noisy once up over 70.000 miles. Steve

[Rein]

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